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Hello, so this week I went to go replace the sway bar bushings. To sum it up its been a disaster... 3 out of 4 of the bracket bolts broke and the 4th is rounded off. So I drilled out 2 of the holes in hopes to get a bolt and nut onto it, however realized that wouldn't work because there's no room to fit fingers into one of the holes farther down. So I thought I would the holes, just to see that it's hollow inside and the what Im guessing was welded metal for the threads, I drilled out.

So now I need advice for my options and have a couple questions. Should I replace the whole subframe? If so how involved would this be for me? Or if I left the sway bar with the bushings on it without the brackets on there with it connected to the end links would the sway bar still do some of its job or would it not do its job at all anymore?

If anyone has any tips or advice for what they'd do please let me know!

Below are pics of my situation lol....

Thank you for reading this!

Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Bicycle part Locking hubs
Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Locking hubs Rim
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Alloy wheel
Automotive tire Rim Bicycle part Motor vehicle Wood
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Crankset

Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
24,201 Posts
I feel your pain. 馃ズ The nuts are spot-welded inside the box section. They can be driven out with a punch (or an air hammer with a punch attachment). Then you are left with a hole.

Look for any frame access you can slide a replacement nut into. I take an old wire coat hanger and spot-braze the flanged nut to the hanger end. Then 'hopefully' maneuver it into place above the hole to start the bolt. You want the nut to 'grip' so it doesn't spin as you tighten the bolt.

It is important not to compromise the strength of the crossmember. Cutting holes can weaken the member. Too much heat can change the temper & start fires. You want a safe repair. A used crossmember may be just as rusted.

OEM bolts have a threadlock applied. Warm them slightly to soften the threadlock before removing them. Trying to remove cold bolts can break them.

Some good ideas on YouTube:

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9,422 Posts
Just remove the sway bar and drive it. You won't really notice much difference unless you drive a lot of curvy roads. I removed the one on my 03 GT for a while and didn't really miss it. Of course, I was living in FL at the time where it's flat and very few sharp curves.
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