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Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
24,201 Posts
I feel your pain. 🥺 The nuts are spot-welded inside the box section. They can be driven out with a punch (or an air hammer with a punch attachment). Then you are left with a hole.

Look for any frame access you can slide a replacement nut into. I take an old wire coat hanger and spot-braze the flanged nut to the hanger end. Then 'hopefully' maneuver it into place above the hole to start the bolt. You want the nut to 'grip' so it doesn't spin as you tighten the bolt.

It is important not to compromise the strength of the crossmember. Cutting holes can weaken the member. Too much heat can change the temper & start fires. You want a safe repair. A used crossmember may be just as rusted.

OEM bolts have a threadlock applied. Warm them slightly to soften the threadlock before removing them. Trying to remove cold bolts can break them.

Some good ideas on YouTube:

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