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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
obd1 3L/41TE trans need to finally get something to pull codes since it's going into limp mode again.
I know the MT2500 snap-on is supposed to but I'm not having much luck finding a good used one that isn't $500
or beat up or missing parts/cartridges.

How about an OTC/Matco 4000 Enhanced? I found one with a 97 Pathfinder cartridge (these use a single cart instead of
two like the MT2500 near as I can tell). I think I may need to get the 3305-65 CCD adaptor cable. I'm reasonably sure this
will read TCM codes but I'm not sure if it will do the quick learn or not. Any experience?
 

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The 4000 Enhanced version should work, I just tried it with the 97 Pathfinder cartridge and 3305-65 cable, on a 90 New Yorker. Please note that a 4000E is a different story, it would need a 3305-22 CCD adapter.
 

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i have an old actron that takes the atari games that works (when it powers up, something in the 12v plug...) you can find them with all the games for <100 on ebay at times
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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1995 would be OBD1. 1996+ is OBD2 with the universal DLC connector.
The body connector on the LeBaron is used for 41TE TCM communication.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got a pretty neat old Matco branded OTC 4000 Enhanced. Got a code 31 out of it, cleared and need to re-drive tomorrow.
I did some basic ground checking per the ATSG guide and nothing looks wonky, I actually pulled the harness and stripped it and did
a pin to pin check the other day and it was in remarkably good shape. The valve block is new, and I have a working when pulled TCM
I'll try depending on how tomorrow goes.

The really neat news is I scored a factory mopar rebuild trans for about a third of what any rebuild/reman goes for.
It's been sitting a bit but was plugged up tight and is shiny wet everywhere one can look inside. A score for sure if
it works alright. Plus, I get to keep the cool plastic transport pod, and my core.
CVI's looked ok on it, btw.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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A code #31 sets if the hydraulic pressure doesn't trip the O/D switch when entering 4th gear (when it is supposed to).
A large internal seal leak can prevent the pressure from actuating the O/D clutch. Check line & O.D pressures.
Make sure that your TCM is at the latest revision part number.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, I'm going to check the wiring from that sensors pins to the TCM this afternoon after verifying it resets the code, if the wiring is good I have a spare TCM to swap in, failing that I'll trust the electrics and swap in the reman trans I have already. Last time I drove it, it set the code and went to limp mode immediately after it shifted 1-2 the first time leaving the neighborhood at low speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So... we're back to functioning with no codes.
We'll see what it does the next few days.

Been an odd string of issues.
Last week the significant other gets limp mode coming home from work, says it started very soon after hitting a pretty good pothole (Oklahoma City has some serious potholes).
It would drive a few miles before going into limp mode, and even made it the full ten miles home the last day she drove it to work.
I made sure the pan wasn't busted (again, she did that on a pothole once before, yay Oklahoma), checked the fluid and replaced the valve block and in/out sensors with an
amazon unit. At that point it was in limp mode before it was even out of the neighborhood, less than a quarter mile at 12mph.
Worse than it was.

While waiting for my scanner to show up, I pulled the trans harness and stripped it and did a physical exam and a pin to pin continuity test while yanking around
on it and found no issues. Reinstalled, no change.
Got the scanner in, had a communication error.
Started doing the astg tests and found a bad voltage drop on one of the ground wires to the TCM.
Went to bed after doing some more reading.
Next morning, bad ground is gone, scanner connects, code 31.
Cleared code, drove fine.
Still does.

I pulled all the connectors and contact cleaner'd and eyeballed them close and still see nothing wrong.
I cleaned the ground on the passenger inner fender, voltage drop was fine everywhere.

Sooo, I'm a little puzzled.
I think maybe there was a bad ground that acted up when she ran over whatever asphalt crater there was, and I fixed it, somehow.
Possibly temporarily.
I'm bothered that I don't know where it was exactly and thus far I can't replicate it, I don't have a correct factory wiring diagram showing ground points
and all, I need to acquire that.
I'm not positive how that code equates to a bad ground either, but bad grounds can do weird things.
It could still be the trans, or the TCM, or a ground that will go south again.
Other than drive it and see I don't know what else to do.

I do have a spare (claimed) known good TCM, and a reman trans if need be.
But I'd just as soon not swap trans right now if I don't have to.
The clutch fill rate numbers looked good on the scanner so it's not obviously shot.
 
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