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I have a 2008 Dodge Avenger SXT 2.4L Dual VVT engine.

I'm trying to find the right oil filter for the engine. I'm not engine Savvy and this will be my first time changing the oil and oil filter on the car.

Went to advanced auto parts and they had two choices listed as to which engine I have.

2008 Dodge Avenger SXT
2.4L 144CI L4 FI VIN: K

and


2008 Dodge Avenger SXT
2.4L 144CI L4 FI VIN: J-EDG

How do I figure out which engine is mine? What is the right oil filter for the engine?

Help would be appreciated!
 

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Doesn't matter anyway. It's the same oil filter for both VIN's. IF you are getting a Fram filter, you can use XG10060, TG10060, HM10060 or PH10060.
 

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I wouldn't put a Fram on a go kart. Go with the Purolator Pure One Gold Filter. The correct # is PL12222. I ran those on my Caliber and that's what I'm using on my 2013 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4. Matter of personal choice, of course, but I've had problems with Fram in the past and don't like them.
 

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chuzz said:
I wouldn't put a Fram on a go kart. Go with the Purolator Pure One Gold Filter. The correct # is PL12222. I ran those on my Caliber and that's what I'm using on my 2013 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4. Matter of personal choice, of course, but I've had problems with Fram in the past and don't like them.
It was just an example. Obviously I'm not going to run down every p/n for that application. www.RockAuto.com is a good website for a variety of filters and their p/n. I don't use Fram either. Curious, what problems have you had with your previous Fram filters?
 

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neongary said:
It was just an example. Obviously I'm not going to run down every p/n for that application. www.RockAuto.com is a good website for a variety of filters and their p/n. I don't use Fram either. Curious, what problems have you had with your previous Fram filters?
its not that there are problems with the Fram Filters, they're so Cheaply made that your afraid that the filter might fail internally and then its Goodbye engine.
 

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Problem I had with Fram was when removing them, the gasket all too often stayed on the oil filter mount instead of spinning off with the filter. If you don't notice it, and install your new filter on top of that, as soon as you start the engine with your fresh oil in it, it starts spewing out around the new filter. I learned that the hard way over 30 years ago. I haven't trusted Fram since then and if you take a Fram, a Purolator and a Wix ( for examples) and cut them open and compare the construction, you'll be buying the Purolator or Wix for your car.
 

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chuzz said:
Problem I had with Fram was when removing them, the gasket all too often stayed on the oil filter mount instead of spinning off with the filter. If you don't notice it, and install your new filter on top of that, as soon as you start the engine with your fresh oil in it, it starts spewing out around the new filter. I learned that the hard way over 30 years ago. I haven't trusted Fram since then and if you take a Fram, a Purolator and a Wix ( for examples) and cut them open and compare the construction, you'll be buying the Purolator or Wix for your car.
I had that happen when I serviced my daughter's '99 Sebring she had at the time. Didn't notice the gasket had not stayed with the filter. Had oil all over when I started it to check for leaks. Only lost a quart from less than 10 seconds of running. But it wasn't a Fram filter - was a Purolator. Only time I ever had that happen. The point is it can happen to any oil filter.

FWIW - I have used Fram oil filters in the past and had no problems. It's only the cheapest Fram's that have the cardboard ends - the others are better built. But, I still prefer Purolater or Wix or NAPA Gold.

Fram does make a good air filter.

Before they closed, the local NAPA shop use to have a display of cut open oil filters - one of those was the Fram with it's cardboard ends. The other two were the NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. Funny thing is I don't remember them actually stocking Fram filters. Walmart has a huge display of Fram filters. AAP has Purolator and Driveworks (their generic brand). Don't know what AZ has as I rarely go there. The local NAPA has long since closed and the nearest one is 10 miles away so I rarely go there as well.
 

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chuzz said:
Problem I had with Fram was when removing them, the gasket all too often stayed on the oil filter mount instead of spinning off with the filter. If you don't notice it, and install your new filter on top of that, as soon as you start the engine with your fresh oil in it, it starts spewing out around the new filter. I learned that the hard way over 30 years ago. I haven't trusted Fram since then and if you take a Fram, a Purolator and a Wix ( for examples) and cut them open and compare the construction, you'll be buying the Purolator or Wix for your car.
When I worked as a tech at a Honda dealer, the sticking gasket problem came up on OEM Honda filters. In a few cases (on the older CR-V's) a double gasketed filter would leak on oil on to the exhaust pipe and caused a few fires. The investigations revealed that it was a technician error, not the fault of the filter. So I doubt there is a Fram filter problem in this regard. You just have to be careful in what you are doing no matter what. As to the internal quality...well I suppose that's another matter.
 

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Agree. I always use Mopar oil filters, especially if the car is still under warranty. Not that the dealer would likely deny a warranty claim if an engine damage issue occurred, but factory parts just look 'better' if they are there.
 
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