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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been MIA on this board for many years but am now back. I began this MOPAR journey back in Oct 2014. Now, fast forward seven years and she still isn't done!! lol.
Although, she's much closer.
Lot's has happened since those days and there's a lot to share. As I stated way back when, I had a list of changes I intended to make to this 1967 Coronet 500. The list changed a little but as of today everything I wanted to change has been completed.
Here's the final list of completed modifications.


Mods:
Front to back------ Front bumper sectioned, shortened, turn signal rectangular holes filled, recurved to fit the new fender noses and to hug the sheet metal. Also enlarged the center license plate cut out into a ram airduct.
1967 Charger grill and revolving headlights. Custom electric motors, mounts and linkages.
Front fender noses swept back to a 90* angle ( Think 70 Road Runner).
Front disc brakes swap from a 76 Aspen.
All rubber bumpers and bearings replaced.
Inner fender close out smooth panels to hide wiring etc.
Smooth firewall with relocated wiper motor to under dash as is everything previously on the firewall.
Battery to box behind passenger seat.
Wiring pass through tubes running along outside of inner fender just below the fender mounting flanges and into the cab through the firewall.
Wiring passthrough boots in the door frames.
2004 Audi A6 Quattro dash/console /steering and center pull E Brake. And everything in/on the dash console too.
Audi door panel elements fabricated into new panels that align with the Audi dash.
Puddle lights and rear facing marker light on the rear face of the inner door surface so it can be seen when the door is opened.
Power everything.
Custom steering linkages.
dual M/C and new hoses/lines.
10 way, power/heated bucket seats leather.
1967 Plymouth Sport Fury rear seat topper mounted just behind bucket seat tops and close out roadster type panels from there to the back glass. (Think 59 Corvette)
Audi armrest with 4 analog gauges hidden inside.
GPS speedo
spare tire under the roadster panels in what would have been the center of the rear seat. Close out panel between cab and trunk.
Fabricated shift linkage and lever. Hand made pistol grip and reverse lock out.
Fake quarter panel side scoops opened up.
dual motorcycle pop up gas filler caps, one on top of each quarter near the trunk lid front corners.
fabricate he entire rear face of the car to accept 1966 Thunder Bird tail lights.
Trunk lid on gas lifts
17 gallon fuel cell with dual filler necks.
trunk close out panels
rear wells tubbed
leaf springs relocated to under frame.
center pull E Brake cables
move spring perches
remove spare tire well
1970 Road Runner rear bumper lengthened 4 5/8" and recurved to hug the sheet metal. TTI exhaust to exit through those back up light holes.
Remote trunk release.
'shave gas filler door
ditch the 318 in favor of a built 440 Magnum, and build a 727.

She's now partially painted, ( the front clip is in color) and the rest of the shell is in the 5th coat of primer. The bodywork is complete and it would be painted now but I ran out of warm weather up here in Vermont. lol. Sigh. Spring it is...

In the following posts I'll walk through each section and the m ode I made, and why I made them. My original goal was to do stuff that would blend in, seem factory or at least not gaudy or over blown. Subtlety and symmetry are my watchwords..
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Let's start at the front....

Too begin with, there were several things about this B Body that I was unhappy with, that needed to be changed or redesigned.
Top of the list were the front fender noses and that horrible forward angle on each corner to allow the hood contour lines to skate diagonally across the hood and out onto the fender top. Who thought of this abomination?
They had to go. Not very muscle car looking to me. More like Mom's grocery go getter...
So, I swept them back to a 90* angle which them aligned them more closely with the angle of the front edge of the hood.
More like a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner...
There was a lot of cut & paste involved with this mod in order for the fender side contours to line up still and for the slope across the top to fall smoothly over the front edge. The car had been smacked on both front corners in the past and I was able to cut out much of the damage in this modification. Bonus.

Once this mod was done it created problems elsewhere, as I knew it would.
No the front bumper ends were hanging out in space, no where near the same zip code as the fender pockets the ends were to set into. Bumper mods was next up. Additionally I had opted to install the 67 Charger grill and revolving headlight buckets and turn signal housings across the front. So, this meant that I would no longer need the in bumper mounted Coronet turn signals. More bumper mods.

I toyed with just swapping out the bumper for some other one but just didn't really find anything I was jazzed about.'
So I sliced mine into several hunks.
I eliminated the slight curve on both ends and reshaped the very end corners. I also shaved the signal light rectangular holes. I also widened and enlarged the license plate holder cut out and made it into an air intake.

Having completed these items I moved on to inner fender close out panels. I decided to use these for a couple of reasons, one is because the flat section of the inners that runs along each side below the hood hinges was wrinkly. Plus the panels are suspended on nylon bushings about 1/4" off of the inner panel surface so I can hide stuff behind them. And they look cool...lol.

Following these I installed 1976 Aspen front disc brakes. This was an easy swap in that all that's needed is the caliper mount brackets and the spindles. The rest can be bought at the local parts store to replace old parts.

I got a set of powder coated calipers for her.

The next item was the firewall. I wanted a smooth one, which also meant that the wiper motor would need to be relocated elsewhere. It ended up under the dash. I fabricated a patch for the divot that it sat in and filled it in. I cut a one piece panel and put in the slight bend 2/3rds down and welded it in place after cutting away all portions of the stock firewall that protruded out past the base plane. While I was at it I also cut out the front face of the cowl ends, as they are always dented and wrinkled, and welded in smooth steel.

Here's some pictures of this journey so far....some were posted back in 2014 but are gone now.
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What colour is that? looks brown with gold metallic .. but were in same boat as you ... we have our 1951 M37 all apart and still stripping old paint off parts and we just got dumped on with feet of snow so now were stuck with working on what is in the shop.. Looking forward to seeing this amazing car come to life, keeps us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Continuing rearward on the car I got into the second biggest mod on my list. I wanted a modern interior/dash/controls in my 67 Coronet. To this end I took measurements of the distance from A pillar to A pillar and windshield base to floor and trans hump as well as from windshield base rearward for depth of dash. Armed with these numbers and a tape measure I hit the salvage yards looking for something that would both fit, and that I liked. I looked at hundreds of cars and trucks from the 1990's to the 2014's. Nothing doing. At the same time I got into a conversation with a friend, reminiscing about days in West Germany in the service back in the 1980's. I spoke about a 1986 brand new Audi 5000 Quattro sedan I bought from a German dealership and shipped back to the States. Great car. This put me in mind of Audi's and I remembered several that I had ignored in my search pattern. So, I saddled up and went back and sure enough there sat a 2006 Audi A6 Quattro, All Road wagon. Doors closed, windows up and complete. It was all in great shape so I put the tape on it and it was a MATCH. I had found my interior. I'll include a shot of what one is supposed to look like when fully assembled, for reference. I took it all. Door skin to door skin and firewall to rear seats, roof skin to floor pan. Once I got it all home I slid the dash shell into the Coronet cab and learned a few things straight away.

It wouldn't fit. lol! The windshield curve is tighter on the Audi and, the Coronet dash was like 11" deep whereas the Audi dash is like 21" deep!
So I made a pattern of the Coronet windshield base curve and transposed it onto the Audi dash surface. I then cut away the dash top to match. Good thing it was deep, I took a bunch off. Still was twice as deep as the Dodge dash had been. It made the shifter sit rearward about 9" and the seat bases too. Good thing I have long legs! After trimming the old Dodge under dash stuff so that the steering and frame for the Audi dash would sit in place where I needed it to be I set up the center tower and the console. All of these elements needed to coincide with each other just right or they wouldn't go back together properly. So, after lots of fooling around, and adjustment I had it mocked up in the right position for the center tower mounting points not be in a bind against the tunnel and the dash ends in position to meet the incoming lines of the door top elements.
The Audi doors are short front to back and the door panels plastic and shaped in a pleasing contour. None of this worked on the huge Coronet flat door slabs.
I finally just cut away the plastic door panel and separated the elements from it to use separately.
As you will see in the pictures the Coronet doors are long rectangles. The Audi front door panel top section isn't long enough to go all of the way across the top of the Coronet door. BUT, the Audi rear doors ARE long enough. However, the front section of the rear doors is different from the front of the front doors where they meet the dash ends. So I sliced them apart and married up the rear door rear sections with the front door front sections. Make sense? They were now both long enough AND the right shape to meet the dash ends so the contours could flow across onto the door panels.
To mount these Frankenstein parts to the big doors I ran 4" long drywall screws down through the body of the pieces, passing through plastic PVC tube sections I had cut to length to hold the sections out away from the door skin at the right angles and distances to meet the dash ends. Then, I sprayed behind them with heavy duty construction expanding foam. The screws held the part still and the foam was able to expand fully into the cavities without moving the parts around. Trick, right? I thought so, it worked.
After drying I trimmed the edges and hit it all with filler to firm it up and make a surface to cover with vinyl later. I mocked up a door card strip with the padding on it so that the filler would have a space under the edge for the door card to slide under later on.
I laid down the doors and tried different positions for each piece, the arm rest and cubby. I had to account for the stuff inside the Dodge door, like the window crank and door glass and latch. After discovering the optimal positioning that missed any important bits and was ergonomically correct for the passenger to use, I got busy building door cards. I used 3/16" hardboard with padding 1/8" thick. The armrest portion held the window switch's and door lock switch, the upper section held a tweeter speaker, the door opening pull latch, door lock switch and a section of wood trim. The cubby was a tilt out glovebox affair with a Bose sub woofer and the memory preset buttons for the power seats.
The armrest front handle portion originally was attached to the curved plastic Audi panel and now sat 2 1/4' above the Dodge door card. I fashioned a hunk of White oak into a teardrop shape as a base for the end and screwed up through the back of the door card into the arm. The rear end of the armrest was curved where it connected to the Audi panel so I made a "shoe" to slide under it that will be covered later in fabric/vinyl.
The Audi doors had a neat feature that I also incorporated into the Dodge doors. They had a small rectangular 1"x 3" plastic light that snapped into the sheet metal on the bottom of the door facing the ground as a clear "puddle light" and one on the rear vertical face of the door body that was red and was a "Marker" light to show oncoming pedestrians and cars that the door was 'open'. The Audi also had a rubber accordion boot in each door frame for wiring to pass through from the cab into the door body. These also simply snapped in place on the sheet metal.. Very trick on a 1967 car.
Pictures or it didn't happen....
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Although I could hook up the A/C & heat I am not going to, less hassle and it looks better under hood. I may revisit that.
The Audi steering is a "DD" shaft going into a "D" shaft at the Dodge gear. The Audi steering wheel is telescoping and tilting so I needed a swivel in there too. I used a Bergeson knuckle and a Flaming River connector and shaft section. Hooked right up. The Audi wheel still does it's thing too. The shifter was now on the floor, where before it was on the column so I needed to buy some hardware for a floor shifted car. I'll need to add in a 9" section of rod onto the shift linkage to reach the stock location of the torque shaft from the tranny coming up through the floor. I ditched the little shift lever from the Audi and the plated plastic shift bezel too. Cheap looking. I had a rubber shift boot left over from another vehicle and it fit great. I wanted a short throw Pistol Grip MOPAR Hurst type shift lever. I decided to make one.
i scrounged a hunk of white oak from out in my woods and after a few tries I had the shape of the handle grips down cold. I used a length of 3/16" steel as the lever body and hand bent it to suit me. I bought a used Inland Shifter and disassembled it to get the reverse lock out mechanism off of it and adapted it to my handle. I need only push down a little with the heel of my and to release from Park or Drive to reverse.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The dash has a 160 MPH speedo, the usual gauges, Bose Symphony Stereo, digital climate controls. The console has the shifter and a center pull E Brake. I used two left hand parking brake cables so they would be even in the center. They come into the cab through the center floor brace top hump and connect to the handle brackets. The seats are Volvo XC-90 leather, heated, 10 way power buckets with " Baseball" stitching along the seams.
The sections along the top of the doors have the pull lever to open the door latch. Unfortunately they are in the opposite corner of the huge Coronet door from where the latch is. I had to fabricate a long release rod that misses the window glass and window crank mechanism.
Next up was the "Roadster" panels behind the seat backs. These came about because I wanted a different look on t
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he rear face of the car and to get the look that I wanted I needed to cut out the spare tire well in the trunk floor. With it gone, and with a fuel cell in the trunk, I had no place to put a spare tire. Except where the rear seat was. So, if I put it there I would need to cover it with something, right? At this time I was looking idly through the classifieds in another forum and happened upon a 1967 Pymouth Sport Fury rear seat topper for sale. This part strongly resembles a set of extended wings. It hugs the tops of faux bucket rear seats. I wondered placed directly behind a set of real front bucket seat backs? It came from another B Body car so it would be the right width too. I bought it and mocked it up and fell in love straight away. It looked trick. I mean.
This led me to close out roadster type panels that come from the underside of the rear of the topper and extended to the back glass. The topper has a center section that's lower than the rest and makes a 12" wide trough about 1/2" deep at the topper and even at the glass. Much like a 1959 Corvette. Bonus is that this trough is the same width as the deck lid center contours and the hood center contours, making that detail flow right through the car, front to tail. Like I planned it that way. lol. It's very trick and looks like it belongs there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The battery box goes behind the passenger seat in the footwell and the spare in the center with the drivers footwell for tools and cleaning supplies. There's a steel close out barrier where the rear seat back used to be to close off the cab from the trunk because of the fuel cell. The panels will be covered in vinyl later.
The side scoops on this car always bugged me because they were fake. why bother if you're not going to at least indent them an inch or so. I cut them up and reworked them to appear as open scoops.
Then, another glaring mistake by the design team at Dodge. Why would you put out a bold new Coke bottle shaped quarter panel that is design heaven and then stick a big clunky gas filler door on it? Seriously? Whose dumb idea was that poopies? I shaved that puppy off.
This led to "Where to place the gas filler?"
I toyed around with sticking a 69 Charger flip open lid in the usual spot but it stuck out like a big bruised thumb. I need something more trick, less obvious.
About that time I happened to catch an episode of Bitchin Rides. Kindig's crew placed a Motorcycle style pop up gas cap behind the quarter panel Pontiac head medallion on a 1953 Pontiac. They made the medallion into the actual cap. It was slick, very slick. I was sold. I searched for and found weld in aluminum pop up gas caps and ordered one. I tried it out in several locations and settled on placement on the top of the quarter panel near the trunk lid front left corner. I cut a hole in a perfectly good quarter that wasn't replaceable and welded the bung in place. The first time I twisted that cap down in and popped it closed I knew that I had a winner. It is too slick for words.. TRICK! Only problem was that after looking at it for a few days something seemed to be off kilter back there. I couldn't figure it out for the life of me. My pal Rick stopped by one day and I mentioned it to him. He stood behind the car and looked around for a few seconds and said, " Well, that was easy." "You need a second cap on the passenger side to balence it out, provide symmetry."
I smacked my forehead. Dummy.
He as right of course. THAT was what was bothering my subconcience. The missing cap. I got another one and welded it into ANOTHER perfectly good quarter panel and all was well instantly. SUPER TRICK! The problem then was that my fuel cell needed another filler neck added for the other side. I got one and cut into a perfectly good fuel cell too.. lol.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used a Mancini Racing leaf spring relocation kit to move the rear leaf springs over under the frame rails. It now has 15 3/4" of space in each well for tires. Pretty easy mod to do, you just have to get the measurements correct and be sure you're right before slicing into the frame rails. The rest is just welding. I took my rear axle to my friends shop up the road and had his son move the spring perches over for me and weld them on. My little welder wouldn't hack it.

While under there I fabricated a cross brace to go up under my new flat trunk floor to help hold the weight of a full fuel cell. I will also be able to attach exhaust hangers from the lower edge of it.
The rear wheel tubs were widened by 4 1/2" so the inside edges are even with the sides of the frame rails.
I put the trunk lid on gas filled lift arms and the mounts for those lifts have a hole through each for the gas fill tubes to pass through on the way down to the tank. Trick!
The trunk is set up for modern style trunk space close out panels to define the space you can see when the trunk is open.
I have a 3/8" fuel line to the front and A//N fittings on the rest.
The biggest mod to this car is the complete redesign of the rear face and the installation of the 1970 Road Runner rear bumper.
I disliked the center portion of the 67-tail light set up, a clunky chromed bezel all of the way across and chrome grills over the weak [I should have my mouth washed out with soap for using such terms] corner lights that nobody could see on a sunny day. What a bad design.
I wanted actual lights all of the way across the rear end. So, I researched cars from all eras that DID have this feature. Most were too weird for my use or too short. I tried a set of 68 Cougar lights just for grins but didn't like them. I tried 67 Charger lights but they were too short and looked too much like, well...67 Charger lights! So, I was looking at a 1966 Thunderbird in a salvage yard one afternoon and noticed that the lights did indeed go all of the way across the car, I had thought that they were separated in the middle. Come to find out it was just a pile of aluminum trim that made them look like they did. They are short too but they are taller than the Charger lights and I like the design better. They are also sequential blinkers. I had found my lights and all that remained was to figure out how to build the back of the car to accept them.
 
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