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Discussion Starter #1
Been checking prices and parts for the 200K milestone on the Mrs 01 PT Cruiser.

I'm delighted to see some great prices for the timing belt driven water pump and normal belt prices but was wondering about the belt tensioner? I see solo belt tensioner pulleys and some are offered bolted to an extrusion of some sort?

I usually do crankshaft and cam seal(s) when I "do" my Toyota, is this difficult on the PT?

Any insight/or links on the crankpulley removal would be really helpful. (Or how not too? :)
Any puller restrictions?

I don't have a manual but do have enuff mechanical experience to be dangerous..

Thx from South Florida
 

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It may relate, so I'll mention....

On the early Neons, the crank pulley is easy enough to access, but the arms of the puller must really be shaped just so. I had a three arm puller with different size hooks on each end. I cut each arm in half, more or less, for extra room. Then I ground the hook on each arm until it fit. It took less time than it would have taken to drive into town, IF I could have found one to fit. It it calls for Miller Special Tool xxxxx, buy it early, or consider making a puller. I've used mine several times, and suspect it will fit the PT.

I use a big piece of all-thread and enough nuts, washers, and spacers to press the harmonic balance back on. I hope the 2.4 is close to identical to the 2.0 in the first generation Neons. I've already found most of the wrong ways to do things on it.

Good luck.

Michael
 

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A service manual with pictures, procedures and tightening torques would come first, even borrowed from a library. Don't try this without guidance on your first PT belt. Have the right front supported by a jack stand and the rear wheels chocked. A floor jack and block of wood can raise or lower the engine slightly with the mounts out.
There is the water pump, tensioner pulley and an idler pulley that should be replaced along with the belt. Roll the crankshaft 2 turns to seat the belt and double-check your marks. A dental mirror and straight-edge may be needed to check the cam marks. You don't want to have to do this job twice.

0900c1528004210e.jpg

The crank pulley puller needs a stem tool to push against, avoid using the crank bolt as a tool to push against.

2009-08-05_192929_2009-08-05_122752.png

Room is limited up top, but with the engine supported, the right mounts, wheel and splash shield removed, you have more room to work from the side and underneath.
Happily, the 2.4L is a freewheeling engine so if the timing belt jumps, breaks or the timing is wrong, the valves can't hit the pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
New Developments..

Looks like the powers steering pressure hose developed a pinhole leak and accelerated the timing belt work. As long as I'm in there i'm doing the belt, water pump and the wheels and the PS pump. I suspect I'll be doing the front crank seal since this car was taking a qt of oil per month.

Crown-thanks for the belt layout. I've done a half dozen belts so far so I don't expect anything new really. I did a eclipse belt with the water pump on the belt so I suspect it's similar. The idea of lowering the engine is cool thanks.

I'll try to submit a DIY photo workup for any owners who might want to try this too.

BTW we inherited a 05 PT w a remote w 48K last week so I'm sure you'll more from me soon.

Tim (Mr2Tim)
SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
Boca Raton, Fl
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tahnks for the recall tip Crown but the pinpoint leak is in the middle of a "no-contact area" (must be my magnet ability for brown poo..)

Have seen some "retro-fit" info when I'm looking for the tensioner parts (and water pump?). I guess this 01 had a mechanical tensioner (which I'm used to).
Question is what's the discussion on the retro fit for the new tensioers and is it really worth it to convert? It apparently changes the timing covers too?

The water pumps appear not to change as I view the parts pictures from 01 and up?

This Power Steering Pump and hose change looks more difficult to get to than the timing belt. Jeez.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Getting ready to assemble the parts for timing belt swap and apparently there are 2 different types of timing belt tensioners for the 2001?? however the idler pulley is the same for both thankfully.

Evidently the first "batch" of supplied engines used a hydralic design and what's called the 2nd design uses a mechanical type.

HELP!! how do I know which I need BEFORE I open this puppy up?
 

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The hydraulic tensioner system was superseded to the eccentric spring-loaded pulley system in the early 2000's. Chrysler hasn't offered the hydraulic tensioner system parts in about a decade. The new system comprises of the eccentric pulley/bracket assembly. I believe that Chrysler includes a new plastic timing cover with the new system to give clearance for the new parts.
If the hydraulic cylinder is OK, it should still be usable. Just replace the idler (up by the front cam sprocket) and tensioner pulleys. I can't tell you for sure which system you have. An '01 may be the old style.
The pulleys and water pump are generally replaced because the bearings are wearing parts.
Collapse the cylinder in a vise and insert a hard wire retainer pin until everything is assembled and timed, then pull the pin.
 

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I'm trying to set my timing marks having a real hard time. when i try to align the intake cam it jumps as i turn it clock wise and lands just pass the alignment spot then when I crank it counter clock wise it loads the spring creating a of of pressure. Is this normal and or how do i get it to line up right???
I did have it idling once didn't like being revved. I took that as a good sign tried getting it closer but failed badly.
 

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03PTBELT_LI.jpg
 

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Here is the service manual procedure for installation of timing belt. Key is to rotate exhaust camshaft sprocket 1/2 tooth to allow easy fit of toothed belt on sprockets. Image attached.

Timing Belt Install.gif

INSTALLATION timing belt

(1) Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the
sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.

(2) Set camshafts timing marks so that the
exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below the
intake camshaft sprocket (Fig. 84).

CAUTION: Ensure that the arrows on both camshaft
sprockets are facing up.


(3) Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft,
go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley,
camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner
(Fig. 85).

(4) Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise
(Fig. 85) to align marks and take up belt slack.

NOTE: A new tensioner is held in the wound position
by a pull pin.


(5) Remove the pull pin or Allen wrench from the
belt tensioner.

(6) Once the timing belt has been installed and
tensioner released, rotate the crankshaft two (2) complete
revolutions. Verify that the TDC marks on
crankshaft and timing marks on the camshafts are
aligned as shown in (Fig. 86).

(7) Install lower timing belt cover and tighten fasteners
to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.) (Fig. 80).

(8) Install upper timing belt cover and tighten fasteners
to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.) (Fig. 80).

(9) Install right engine support bracket. Ensure
the power steering pump is properly located in
mounting location on bracket. Tighten mount bracket
bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 81).

(10) Lower engine into mounting position and
install right engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt
to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.).

(11) Install power steering pump and bracket.

(12) Install upper radiator support crossmember.
Refer to BODY for procedure.

(13) Install torque strut bracket to strut tower.

(14) Connect ground strap to bracket.

(15) Install upper torque strut.
 

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To keep the cam gears from turning get some sheet metal the thickness of a cam tooth. Cut them to length so you can fit them in between the inlet and exhaust camshaft gears at the top and bottom. Align the timing marks. Slide 1 plate in the tooth recesses a few teeth above the timing marks and one a few teeth below. Then wrap string around both plates tying them together. This way the cams are "locked" together and cannot rotate. Install belt as Allan C says above. When belt is installed remove plates.
 

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I have 'pinched' the belt teeth into the sprocket with clothespins or blunt spring clips. Do not cut into the rubber with a sharp pinching jaw. This will hold the belt and sprocket together for assembly.
I use a small mirror and straight-edge to look 'directly' at the marks as you can't see them head-on from above or below.
Then set the tension and roll the crankshaft over 2 turns. Re-evaluate all 3 marks for correct time. A tooth off is a bad thing and it won't run right like that.
The first time doing this is the most difficult. After doing a few of them, you learn the tricks. :)
 
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