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Discussion Starter #1
1993 3.3 a604
while driving, i heard a small pop. (figured i ran over something) followed by a whirring noise then a couple loud bangs. tranny fluid was now leaking from the bellhousing.

since the starter just spun, then caught after a while, i pulled the flywheel cover and starter. teeth look worn funny but no broken ones.

however i had a piece of cast aluminum lager than a quarter fall out with the starter, so im assuming it was interfering with the starter/flywheel contact. i also found aluminum crumbs/powder along the bottom edge of the bellhousing.

so the question is, do these have cast aluminum torque converters, can they fail and have pieces break off,

or does the infamous pin that falls out and punches through the casing end up in the bell housing?

im assuming either way its the same job to replace just the torque converter as the tranny.
 

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The t/converter is probably OK. This is probably the differential pinion shaft that has separated and punched a broken piece of aluminum case into the bell-housing. I would look for a replacement A-604 transaxle that would come with a t/converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you. yeah i figured it was probably that. either way i have to pull the tranny to check i guess.

$100 at pnp, but i guess i have to find a crashed one or shot engine one so i dont get one with the same problem. i guess if i find a dry bellhousing one that would be ok.
 

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KOG
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Converter is all steel BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yup all steel. and case all cast aluminum, except for the hole wide as a baseball, and as long as a softball. wow, good thing that pin doesnt fly at your face. also how thick is that steel? it has a nick in it 3/16" deep (still good?). it went on me starting from a stop sign. i wonder what it would have looked like at 120 km/hr?

now the question is what will fit. i called a guy with an a604 from a 3.8 and he said its not the right one. also theres a tranny(not a604) from an 86 2.2 laser for $200, but im guessing different bellhousing.

anyone near edmonton have one at a reasonable price?
 

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You can use the 3.8 tranny... it just has different gearing. The Laser one won't work.
 

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What year 3.8L? There may be electrical differences.
I believe that the TRS (transaxle range switch) setup was changed from 2 switches to 1 switch in ~11/95. The TCM may also be different between years and you may need that part as well.
Consult a Hollander's Interchange manual for a direct fit.
 

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KOG
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There's almost no interchange between model years on those things. 3.8 has taller gearing which won't play well with a 3.3. You can swap the transfer gears on the end of the transmission to change the gearing back to the 3.3 ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if i were to change the guts out to another case, would i have acces to change the seals?

also can i use a case from a 94, 3.8, or would the electrical be different?

is transfer gears the ones where the pin pops through the case?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
valiant67 said,



Rich, Corinthian Leather
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Posted September 16, 2012 at 02:24 pm
Slow to engage usually means the seals have hardened. Lucas transmission fix can help with that but it's only a temporary fix.



it wouldnt reverse in winter till it warmed up 3 mintues. does anyone know which seals? is this valve body, solenoid pack, or internal somewhere?

my plan right now is to have it welded up if i dont find crushed gears, and fix the bad seals.
 

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There is a low/reverse clutch and an input reverse clutch engaged for the reverse gear.
A scatter kit would include new upgraded seals, snap rings and clutch discs/plates.
If you are going to disassemble the transaxle to clean out the broken bits of case, then I would replace the clutches and seals. If it was having trouble backing up, then it is time for overhaul.
 

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KOG
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Transfer gears are on left side of case, nothing to do with differential pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so i bought a donor van. i drove it a bit and seemed to shift fine. i dropped the trans, added the pin brackets, and went to install it. i just couldnt get it to go in. i tightened the bolts by hand until they were getting fairly tight, and realized something was wrong. the coverter right up to the plate but still 3/4 inch between the case and engine. i was sure i had the converter all the way in, as it was as far as i could get the one in the old trans in.

after playing around with the old trans some more another clunk and its in another half inch. ok no problem ill do that to the new one. no go, it just wont seat any further back.

so did i damage the pump? can i scavange parts from the old one? i have a feeling the old one had flow issues be it the pump or seals i dont know.

or is it an issue of trying to clean anything that might have made it into the converter splines? i really dont want to have to find another tranny as this was very hard to come by,(works, cheap)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i dont know why but it wont let me edit right now, so....

getting it back out was harder than getting it in. the engine had moved and i have a feeling i had the converter hung up on that ring attached to the plate.

im wondering if its a good idea or not to seat the old coverter in it. or if it would have metal in it from the popped gear and pin it was welding itself to.
 

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I'd use the converter that came with the working transmission, not your questionable one. How does the flex plate look? You mentioned some possible distorted teeth. Perhaps it should be swapped?

It sounds as if you did not seat the converter properly and that is why it is interferring with the plate. You need to turn the tranny on its back so the converter faces up. Then gently raise and lower the converter with your fingers while rotating the converter a bit. You should get 2 distinctive drops of the converter and if your finger tips get mashed, you probably hit the final drop.

I always like to support the engine from above and then with some blocks behind the pan, push and support the engine a few inches forward to get the needed clearance to raise the tranny in-place. Be sure to not let the converter unseat.

Sadly, I have heard of damage occurring to the front pump when an unseated converter was forced into the flex plate while tightening the bell housing bolts. I guess there is no way to tell, but if the force was substantial, damage may have occurred.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thank you. i guess i will pull it out completely if i have to. right now i just have it hanging from a come along wrapped around a 2x4 up top. ill fight with it a bit more first though.have you ever heard of pump damage from hand tightening the bolts? a how to vid lead me to believe that impact drivers were responible.

also if i can turn the small splined shaft by hand, should it be ok? any other signs to look for?

also i think the flexplate is ok. its got some notches in the teeth where gear/case bits dragged along it, but teeth look fine to get turned by the starter.
 

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If you only hand tightened and didn't torque too much, you might be OK. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. :)

BTW, some of those converters don't seat real easy. I had one where I raised, rotated, and and set it down almost 30 times before it finally dropped in and mashed my finger tips. Others I have done dropped in under 10 tries. You only need to raise it up 1/4 to 1/2 inch between rotations and the rotations are only slight, like a half an inch or less. I'm sure there is a better trick, and I've only done this about 6 times. Some of the other guys might have additional input.
 

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I just put the tranny on end, set the TC on the shaft, and spin it around clockwise until it drops all the way down. It should be just scraping on the bellhousing when it's down far enough. You shouldn't be able to get your fingers in there when it's completely seated.
 
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