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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1975 valiant and I was wondering if the stock torsion bars could handle 500 HP?
Also can anyone suggest ideas for suspension. Right know the car handles like a 1975 valiant, is this the best I can hope for?
Thanks
 

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Depends on your goals. Straight-line 1/4 mile, the bars are OK. Turning fast with 500 hp, not so good.
 

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Depends on what you want to do with the car. If the desire is straight line acceleration the lightest bars (from a slant 6 car) may be the best. If you want to corner and brake you want V8 bars or some aftermarket heavier ones. What is the goal for the car?
 

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Never mind the torsion bars. You will probably twist the unibody.
 

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KOG
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What you're after for cornering is anti roll ("sway") bars. The front torsion bars could care less about how much power the car has.
 

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KOG is right, the torsion bars have nothing to do with the 500 hp, it is the amount of force in a corner the torsion bars are concerned about. Larger torsion bars are the answer, something in a 1.00 inch bar will help dramatically in corners, along with a sway bar of at least 3/4 inch or larger, and of course, new bushings and ball joints. Torsion bars are for the stiffness, bushings are the slush of the components, polygraphite bushings flex less and will give you stiffer handling, meaning it will be a firm ride and less deflection in corners, swaybars are needed to help plant the opposite side of the car in a turn, so a true combination of components are needed, just torsion bars needed for the flex up and down, partially for cornering, and as stated, 100hp will want good torsion bars just as much as 500hp does, along with all the other components.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
core said:
So It sounds like I could get the car running and then revisit the trouble areas?
If it is possible to twist the unibody, are there frame stiffeners that can be installed?
So It sounds like I could get the car running and then revisit the trouble areas.
Will subframe connectors help to keep the unibody from twisting?
Are the bolt in type as good as the weld in ones?
 

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KOG
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Weld is better and while you're at it some additional welding in other areas can help.
 

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A square box tube running from the front subframe (of sorts) to the front box of the leaf spring perch, then mark the floor of the car next to the square box tube, determine which parts of the floor need to be cut to allow the box tube to sit square front and rear, then weld the box ends to the subframe front and rear, and then the floor to the sides of the box tube. Now, you have to get the proper size square box tube according to the size of the box of the subrame, around 3.5 to 4.0 box tube, and the car needs to be sitting flat, even and level at the door sillplates front to back, and side to side, to ensure that when you weld everything tight, it is square. I don't recommend the bolt in types, not enough solid sheetmetal to do real stiffening of the twist.
 
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