[Bob Lincoln]

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/21572-Proper-Use-of-MLR-9336A-Transmission-Dip-Stick-Identify-my-Tranny-model

"An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.)."

"7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336A has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct."

It doesn't say how far up the FILL mark is. But this does: http://asttool.com/pdf/INSTRUCTIONS_CRY933.pdf

I'm seeing prices like $65 - crazy.

 

[ImperialCrown]

You want it long enough to hear it lightly 'clunk' when it touches the bottom of the oil pan. Don't push it in past this point. Then withdraw it and measure the wet area.
ATF temperature is important also as the level will vary widely with temperature. The proper level graph is temperature compensated.
I use a 4' piece of old speedometer cable.
If the outside of the transmission and cooler lines are dry, then the level may be OK.
With the problems that you are experiencing, there may be fault codes stored in the TCM portion of the PCM/TCM. Has the 'ck eng' light ever come on?

 

[jlcantor]

http://forum.chrysle...my-Tranny-model

"An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.)."

"7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336A has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct."

It doesn't say how far up the FILL mark is. But this does: http://asttool.com/pdf/INSTRUCTIONS_CRY933.pdf

I'm seeing prices like $65 - crazy.

I saw the 424mm/16.69" numbers elsewhere and they must be wrong. That gets barely halfway down the tube.

You want it long enough to hear it lightly 'clunk' when it touches the bottom of the oil pan. Don't push it in past this point. Then withdraw it and measure the wet area.
ATF temperature is important also as the level will vary widely with temperature. The proper level graph is temperature compensated.
I use a 4' piece of old speedometer cable.
If the outside of the transmission and cooler lines are dry, then the level may be OK.
With the problems that you are experiencing, there may be fault codes stored in the TCM portion of the PCM/TCM. Has the 'ck eng' light ever come on?

This sounds more reasonable so long as the dipstick is supposed to completely bottom out which I didn't think it would.

I'm getting very sluggish sifts, stuck in neutral between gears, etc. No MIL light and I haven't had a chance to scan it yet. I am also dealing with what my mechanic and I believe are bad ABS wheel sensors which just received from Rock Auto and will be installing today so I suppose it could conceivably be related to that although the problem started well after the first indication of problems with the ABS.

 

[stevenspeaking]

I measure it at 51" from the tip to the base of the handle. I have heard of people using an inferred thermometer on the trans case to get a rough fluid temp reading.

 

[jlcantor]

Well the thin tape measure worked well. I got 31" of it into the dipstick tube before hitting bottom and was definitely low on fluid. Topped it off (actually slightly over filled because the last little bit goes up the stick very quickly) and the transmission issues appear to have gone away.

Now I just have to get to the ABS sensor installation which I didn't get to today.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Nice work. Use ATF+4 only in the NAG1 transmissions (an old, but robust Mercedes-Benz design).
Now why was it low? ATF can only disappear through an external leak or insufficient previous fill. There were leak issues at an electrical connector o-ring in the case.
Has the transmission ever been serviced before?

 

[jlcantor]

I've only had the car for about 18 months so I don't know it's past service history. Judging by the other systems I've worked on, I'd say it was treated well and gently. When I have it up on stands this weekend to put the snows on and replace the ABS wheel sensors, I'll look for transmission leaks. My guess, since I've never seen any signs of anything on the driveway, is that it has a very slow leak that after seven years, finally got down to a level, especially with the cooler weather, where it impacted transmission performance.

So I look in the right places, where is the electrical connection of which you speak?