Allpar Forums banner

Trans Fluid Check in '06 300C

12844 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  jlcantor
I've started getting some strange transmission behaviors in my 300C - sticking in a low gear, delay in engaging in D or R when shifting, lack of auto-stick control. My thought is to start with the simple and check fluid level as in the past with other cars, low fluid has often been the cause. Some research here shows that one needs a Miller Special Tools 9336A, the dipstick that never came with the car in the first place. It seems to me, that all one really needs is a slender metal tape of the right length. I even have a slender tape measure that will fit down the dipstick tube, so all I need to know is how far to insert it so as to have the bottom at the correct point to get an accurate measurement. (It even has mm markings on it so I can get a direct reading to compare with the graph that is used in conjunction with the Miller tool.)

Does anyone know the length of the Miller 9336A tool from tip to the cap/stopper that limits its insertion into the dipstick tube?

Thanks,
Jeff
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/21572-Proper-Use-of-MLR-9336A-Transmission-Dip-Stick-Identify-my-Tranny-model

"An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.)."

"7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336A has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct."

It doesn't say how far up the FILL mark is. But this does: http://asttool.com/pdf/INSTRUCTIONS_CRY933.pdf

I'm seeing prices like $65 - crazy.
You want it long enough to hear it lightly 'clunk' when it touches the bottom of the oil pan. Don't push it in past this point. Then withdraw it and measure the wet area.
ATF temperature is important also as the level will vary widely with temperature. The proper level graph is temperature compensated.
I use a 4' piece of old speedometer cable.
If the outside of the transmission and cooler lines are dry, then the level may be OK.
With the problems that you are experiencing, there may be fault codes stored in the TCM portion of the PCM/TCM. Has the 'ck eng' light ever come on?
http://forum.chrysle...my-Tranny-model

"An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.)."

"7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336A has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct."

It doesn't say how far up the FILL mark is. But this does: http://asttool.com/pdf/INSTRUCTIONS_CRY933.pdf

I'm seeing prices like $65 - crazy.
I saw the 424mm/16.69" numbers elsewhere and they must be wrong. That gets barely halfway down the tube.

You want it long enough to hear it lightly 'clunk' when it touches the bottom of the oil pan. Don't push it in past this point. Then withdraw it and measure the wet area.
ATF temperature is important also as the level will vary widely with temperature. The proper level graph is temperature compensated.
I use a 4' piece of old speedometer cable.
If the outside of the transmission and cooler lines are dry, then the level may be OK.
With the problems that you are experiencing, there may be fault codes stored in the TCM portion of the PCM/TCM. Has the 'ck eng' light ever come on?
This sounds more reasonable so long as the dipstick is supposed to completely bottom out which I didn't think it would.

I'm getting very sluggish sifts, stuck in neutral between gears, etc. No MIL light and I haven't had a chance to scan it yet. I am also dealing with what my mechanic and I believe are bad ABS wheel sensors which just received from Rock Auto and will be installing today so I suppose it could conceivably be related to that although the problem started well after the first indication of problems with the ABS.
I measure it at 51" from the tip to the base of the handle. I have heard of people using an inferred thermometer on the trans case to get a rough fluid temp reading.
Well the thin tape measure worked well. I got 31" of it into the dipstick tube before hitting bottom and was definitely low on fluid. Topped it off (actually slightly over filled because the last little bit goes up the stick very quickly) and the transmission issues appear to have gone away.

Now I just have to get to the ABS sensor installation which I didn't get to today. :eek:
Nice work. Use ATF+4 only in the NAG1 transmissions (an old, but robust Mercedes-Benz design).
Now why was it low? ATF can only disappear through an external leak or insufficient previous fill. There were leak issues at an electrical connector o-ring in the case.
Has the transmission ever been serviced before?
I've only had the car for about 18 months so I don't know it's past service history. Judging by the other systems I've worked on, I'd say it was treated well and gently. When I have it up on stands this weekend to put the snows on and replace the ABS wheel sensors, I'll look for transmission leaks. My guess, since I've never seen any signs of anything on the driveway, is that it has a very slow leak that after seven years, finally got down to a level, especially with the cooler weather, where it impacted transmission performance.

So I look in the right places, where is the electrical connection of which you speak?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top