[jagrunner2602]

Hi,

Need a bit of directions here.
1997 Voyager 2.4

Trans was slipping. After checking the transmission and radiator fluid it was found that both fluids are milky brown.
The OIL is fine and probably not a head gasket issue. I’m assuming it’s a bad transmission “cooler”.

What do you think the issue is and what the best solution to fix?

Thx and any help would BE GREAT!

JAG

 

[Doug D]

Sounds like the intercooler in the radiator has a leak allowing the coolant and transmission fluid to combine in the cooling system and transmission.

You'll need to replace the radiator, coolant and all of the transmission fluid and filter. You need to do a flush on the transmission - just dropping the pan and changing the filter will only change about half of the fluid. You need to get all of the transmission fluid out. Same with the cooling system - after replacing the radiator - flush all the old coolant out and replace with 50/50 mix antifreeze/distilled water.

Hopefully, the transmission has not suffered too much damage. Coolant in the transmission is not a good thing.

 

[jagrunner2602]

Sounds like the intercooler in the radiator has a leak allowing the coolant and transmission fluid to combine in the cooling system and transmission.

You'll need to replace the radiator, coolant and all of the transmission fluid and filter. You need to do a flush on the transmission - just dropping the pan and changing the filter will only change about half of the fluid. You need to get all of the transmission fluid out. Same with the cooling system - after replacing the radiator - flush all the old coolant out and replace with 50/50 mix antifreeze/distilled water.

Hopefully, the transmission has not suffered too much damage. Coolant in the transmission is not a good thing.

---------------------------------------

Thanks Doug!

I thought this issue had to be somthing other then the trans being bad. I can do this repair. I noticed this problem happend just around 3 miles from home and I shut the van down ASAP when I got home. I really don't think the trans got any damage. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

What do you recommend the correct way to flush out the trans after I remove the pan?

thanks Doug!!

 

[Doug D]

You could try what I refer to as a poor man's flush. First, do the drop-the-pan-change-filter method getting out as much fluid as you can. Reinstall new filter and pan, fill with ATF+4. Then have several quarts of transmission fluid ready to go. Disconnect the return line from the radiator and route it to a large bucket or pan. Start engine - as transmission fluid dumps into the bucket, pour fluid in via the dipstick opening using a funnel. Do this until you notice fresh fluid coming out of the return line. Be careful to keep up as it will go pretty quickly.

Alternatively, you could just do another drop-the-pan type change after a week or so of driving. Then repeat in another week.

If you've got time, you could try just leaving the pan off when you remove it initially and let it drip until most of the fluid drains out. This would take a few days. Alternate jacking one side higher than the other (if you have it on jack stands). AllanC did this in a thread concerning his Neon in the Neon thread.

There's really no simple way - dropping the pan easily gets 4-5 qts with the remaining trapped behind the torque converter (another 5-6 qts).

 

[jagrunner2602]

Hi Doug,

How should I flush the other half of the contaminated milky fluid if I do take of the pan cover? Or do I do the flushing after I replace the new radiator?

I saw a video that shows you how to flush the trans by disconnecting the cooler tube from the trans that goes into the radiator, then extend that hose into a bucket. While the engine is running, pour fluid into the trans and wait until the fluid comes out clear.

How do you think I should I go about the flushing?



Sorry for all the questions.



Thanks for helping.



JAG

Thanks Doug, I missed your post. Sorry for the extra post.

Thanks for everything.

JAG

 

[TWX]

Now would be an excellent time to replace the transmission pan with one with a drain plug. Or, get one added to yours. I don't honestly know the best way to go about that, but be sure that you know which edge is at the bottom.

 

[jagrunner2602]

Thanks Tannon!

Not a bad idea at all. Would save me lots of time. I'll have to see where I can get one.

thank you.

 

[valiant67]

You really need to change the filter and flush it. You've got to get as much of the bad fluid out of there as possible because the antifreeze mixture will shorten the life of the transmission. I would flush first and then change the filter last.

 

[jagrunner2602]

Thanks to everyone who helped me here on this post.

I'm going to replace the radiator today. This is the way I was going to get this job done.

New supply replacements

A. Trans Filter, and gasket * Optional (Get new pan with drain plug OR install drain plug on existing pan)

B. New radiator

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 -Take off the Trans pan cover and let contaminated fluid drip out as much as possible.

2- Install new radiator and fill **50 / 50 anti-freeze?

3- Just put Trans pan cover on WITHOUT the FILTER

4- Flush out contaminated fluid out (without filter)until fluid becomes clear

5- Remove Trans pan cover and install new filter

DONE???

**Can I just use plain water in the radiator during the flushing process or does it matter? I’m assuming that the bad fluid will not get in the new radiator.
I do have a vacuum system that I use to for oil changes. Is there a way I can suck out the bad fluid along with flushing?
Does this sound right or am I missing something?

Thank you,

JAG

 

[Doug D]

For the radiator/cooling system flush, regular tap water will do. Just make sure after the flush is complete to fill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. And I believe your antifreeze should be HOAT, not the regular "green" antifreeze - check your owner's manual.

 

[jagrunner2602]

Will Do.

Thank you and I will keep you posted.

JAG

 

[AC TC]

Just dont use dexcool or anyfluid meeting GM6277....
you should use G05 or old plain green, be avare that most all sorts/use fluids are dex cool clones.
I see no need for using plain water during the flush but when flushing
the coolingsystem use some plain whasing maschine powder to flush the oil out.
Any residues wont hurt the engine since its slightly caustic.

 

[jagrunner2602]

Update
I just want to say thanks to ALL. Allpar always comes through with helping!!

Job done.

I picked up a used radiator,Trans filter/gasket, 3 gallons of Trans fluid. It took 10 quarts of Tran’s fluid to flush until clear.
I first flushed with 5 quarts and took off the pan and emptied then I flushed with the other 5 quarts took the pan off and put in the new filter. I Then topped off the Trans Fluid.

Flush the radiator for a few hours to get the contaminated fluid out of the block. It was amazing how much gunk came out. Filled with fresh anti-freeze.

I took the van for a test drive and to my amazement, I haveno more slipping. Before this problem, I had a bit of slipping. It runs GREAT!!

I never did the poor man’s Trans flush with this Tran but I have to say, It’s amazing with the results because it gets all the bad fluid out!!
Total cost: = $ 119.00

Trans Fluid = $48
Filter/Gasket = $12
Anti-Freeze = $14

Radiator = $45
---------------------------------
Thank you all!!
JAG

 

[Doug D]

Glad you resolved this issue. I'd keep an eye on it for a few weeks.

 

[valiant67]

Did you make sure to use ATF+4 fluid for the trans?

 

[jagrunner2602]

Thanks Mark.

Uh oh! No I used Dex/Merc

I flushed the Trans system using 10 quarts of Dex/Merc then put the new filter in and I topped off with Dex/Merc.

I know that ATF 4 is now the standards for Chrysler vehicles but I read that many other Chrysler owners used Dex/Merc and had no issues.
I know they say to use Dex/Merc for Ford 83 to 96 and GM vehicles 2005 and earlier.

The van has 140,000 mi. I took for a test drive and the trans worked better then ever.

Will the Dex/Merc really cause issues in the long run or is it OK? Do I have to do a flush and redo with ATF4?

Does anyone else on this forum say otherwise? I want to do what’s right but can I get away with the Dex/Merc?

Thx

JAG

 

[ImperialCrown]

On the 41TE since 1995 the use of ATF+4 is critical.
It is a synthetic ATF formulated for that transaxle.
Read your dipstick.

 

[jagrunner2602]

ATF 4 it is.

Ok. I took off the pan to drain. I again noticed that there is still residue in the system. Geeezz I thought I got it all. I took the filter out, got the temp up and did another flush with Dex and stuff is still coming out. I dropped the pan again to drain.

I just picked up 5 quarts of ATF 4 and will top off. Hopefully this is the last thing I have to do.

Thanks,

JAG

 

[ImperialCrown]

Be prepared to change the ATF+4 at least a couple of more times. If you can save the transaxle from a rebuild, you just saved yourself a bunch of money. The various cavities/passages inside the transaxle will hold the contamination for awhile.

 

[Doug D]

I know that ATF 4 is now the standards for Chrysler vehicles but I read that many other Chrysler owners used Dex/Merc and had no issues.

Will the Dex/Merc really cause issues in the long run or is it OK? Do I have to do a flush and redo with ATF4?

Basically put, Dexron/Mercon is death to any electronically controlled Chrysler transmission. It may work okay in the short run, but the transmission will eventually fail. Those Chrysler owners that have used Dexron/Mercon just haven't had their transmission fail yet.

Dexron has a much different coefficient of friction than ATF+4 and will not allow the proper slippage. Dexron is a "grabbier" fluid whereas ATF+4 is "slippier".