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· Fleet Owner
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182 Posts
You can use a 4x4 with a couple blocks under each end (on cowl and rad support) to support the engine. Just get a piece of heavy chain and bolt it to the block in 2 good places. You can put a jack under the chain if you want a little more adjustability. It also may help to have a scissor jack behind the motor to push it forward. The 3.3/3.8 transmissions are definitely a tight fit and you have to find the sweet spot that they drop out at. I ended up having to jack the motor forward and drop it a bit to swing the trans out. It'll drop to a certain point and the differential gets in the way, thats when the jacking forward comes in handy. Also, if yours still has the ABS pump bracket on the trans, it may get in the way. I'd take it off before dropping the trans if possible.

While the trans is out is a good time to clean and paint the brake lines that run through that area, you can get your head (and spray can) right in to see and spray them.
 

· Fleet Owner
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182 Posts
I forgot that bit of info, we strap the trans to the jack. Get a cheap little ratchet strap, set the jack up to cradle the pan and strap over the trans to hold it down to the jack.
 

· Fleet Owner
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182 Posts
Exhaust shouldn't be a problem, never had to take it off for any trans swaps.
 

· Fleet Owner
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182 Posts
I put a screwdriver in the vents on the edge of the rotor and let it ride up into the caliper to torque axle nuts. I use an impact gun to take them off but I'm also spoiled... haha
 
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