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Ok, so i have posted about my 78 cordoba before to find out how rare she is and gotten many a terrific response. No,w since I've had the car I have decided to go through the old girl and eliminate any future issues. Here is what I have done so far,new brakes all around (complete system), oil pan and windage tray gaskets new, trans filter and gasket new, dif cover and gasket new, new plugs, new wires cap and rotor, switched her over to the orange box Mopar ignition, new fuel filter and pump, rebuilt the thermoquad, new valve covers and gaskets. Now from here I decided to pull some more pep out of the P code 400 and this is what I have so far done, Mopar performance M1 single plane intake and valley gasket, hooker competition headers with 2.5" reducers going to a u fit flowmaster kit custom h pipe back to flowmaster super 44's emptying out in front of the rear tires. All of this is done so far. Right now I am in a holding pattern due to confusion... I have a new billet steel double roller timing set from Howard's cams (set number 94335) which has supposedly up to 4 degrees of advance/retard on the cam and has key-ways on the crank for up to 8 degrees of advance/retard. Here's the thing, I can't see anywhere on the cam gear where the 4 degree marks are, as in there aren't any... That being said, I want to give the cam a 4 degree bump but not sure how to set that on the cam. Also I'm wondering if retarding the crank 8 degrees will essentially advance the cam 4 degrees seeing as the cam turns half a rotation for each rotation of the crank... Can anyone clear that up for me? Once I get that done I can put my Mopar performance water pump housing and pump back on and throw back on the accessories so i can finally get this old girl dialed in.
:drive:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
well i got a hold of howards cams finally and they explained to me that the keyways on the crank gear are set for the timing on the cam so since i want a 4 degree bump on the cam i just have to set the crank gear at the 4 degree advance mark and line the keyways up.
 

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ya i would have posted on this b4, but i was kinda stumped. but u said just move it to the 4 degree advance, and that was my best guess lol. nice finding that out tho, could help someone in the future.
 

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Am I missing something here? I'm not an expert on this but don't you advance a cam to improve the low-end torque? If so, it seems that a single-plane intake isn't going to work very well.
 

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I kind of hate to post this, but single planes do work on the street, but there is work to be done. If the heads are stock, it will be a little bit of a dog on the bottom end. I don't know what your compression is, but assume it is probably the low compression 8.4:1 heads/pistons, done around the 1973 year to conform to smog regulations across the board. With that, the single plane intake will prevent you from burning tires all over the place, which can be an advantage. One thing that does make the single plane intakes work on the street is ported heads. Single plane and stock heads will come alive, but it won't really happen until around 2600rpm, so burning tires, don't be disappointed if it takes a bit to make that happen, but hey, shouldn't be doing that anyway, right?
 
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