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My Car is a Touring TURBO, if you have a N/A it should be a lot easier.

A lot easier if you have 2 people. I'm blessed to have my "Crew Chief" Son-In-Law who is a Diesel Mechanic helping me. Especially when jacking and lowering the engine and transmission to gain access.

If you're changing the belt, buy the kit that comes with Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler and Water Pump. I bought the Gates kit. Buy the right one for your engine as they has a kit specifically for the turbo. You don't want to go back in to replace it later, believe me. I didn't change my crank and camshaft oil seals as the car has only 47k miles. I wanted to change it because the belt, water pump, etc. are 16 years old.

The Cast Iron Engine Bracket: It's a lot easier if you have (2) floor jacks, one under the Engine oil pan and one under the Transmission. I jacked up the car, put it on stands, removed both front tires. I put the floor jack on the transmission under the cover plate that is adjacent to the strut of the driver's side. I removed the trans mount bolts (2) that are under the air filter box (easy to get to). Now you can raise the engine and lower the trans to get maximum clearance to remove the engine bracket. Remove the bolts in the engine bracket and as you're working to get the bracket out you can them out, do fight it. Just pull them out to the outer edge of the bracket to give you room. When putting the bracket back in, put the bolts in and I used duct tape to hold the bolts from moving in and out.

A/C Hose and Dryer: I removed the Liquid Line from the dryer as I changed the dryer. The car is 16 years old so I figured a new charge of Freon, so the new liquid line and accumulator/dryer would be welcomed. The liquid line has the orifice embedded into the line.

Coolant Recovery Bottle: I changed the bottle as it was cloudy and hard to see how much coolant was in it. Figured may as well get it while I have the dryer out.

Radiator Fan: The fan has the intercooler piping on each side making it fun to remove. Had to remove the Radiator fan to get to the P/S Pump mounting bolts. To remove the fan, the Turbo has a detachable neck that is bolted on with 2 bolts. When removing the neck, make sure you recover the o-ring. Luckily I saw found mine inside on top of the radiator passageways. The O-ring was stretch, so my son-in-law took the neck and O-ring to NAPA and got a replacement. Removing the neck is the only way to get the fan out. Take out the Oil Dip Stick to prevent breaking it when removing the fan. I removed the air filter box and battery so I could use a couple of extensions to reach the P/S Pump from the battery side of the engine. The bolt closest to the front of the car (which bolts back bracket to P/S pump is easy. The other 2 that mount the pump to the cast iron bracket are a little harder. I put a universal to the 13mm socket to be able to work around the A/C lines.

Timing Belt: Pre-Stretch the belt before trying to install it. Open the belt and stand on it and put the other end like a rubber band. Work around the perimeter of the belt. You'll be amassed how much this will help as the belt is super tight going on.

Crankshaft Dampener: The dampener is press fitted. Either use a Impact gun or you can use the Camshaft holding tool as it fits when removing the bolt. Use a puller to remove the dampener and Do Not Connect puller to outside edge of dampener or you will destroy it, put you puller in the slots of the dampener. We used a MAC tools puller that comes with 3 different length rods. This is the best type of puller to use. The selected rod goes into the bolt hole against the crank and you pushing on it. See some people do it off the bolt, but that's not good putting the stress on the bolt threads. When installing the dampener, I used a propane torch and heated the inside (facing engine) side of the dampener, doesn't take much heat. Once you get it heated it slides right on the crankshaft and then just bolt it back on. Do Not Pound on the dampener to get it on, as you're pounding your crank against the thrust bearings, con-rods, etc. Mechanics fit parts, Butchers pound parts. I used the MAC Gear Holder to hold the dampener when torqueing down the dampener to 100 foot lbs.

Camshaft Gears: You can remove them with an impact to take off. Putting back on, I used a MAC Gear holder to hold the gears to torque them to 85 foot lbs. Torque them correctly and you will never have worries of it shearing the keyway. See some people use the timing belt cover bolt (behind the Cam gear) to hold the gear when removing or tightening it. I wouldn't, if you break the timing belt inner cover bolt you have a bigger problem. Use the right tool and get the right result.

Belts and Hoses: I changed both alternator and P/S & A/C compressor belts so I won't have to worry about them for a long while. I also changed thermostat and cap, upper and lower radiator hoses while I had it apart.

Engine Mounts: After removing the cast iron engine mount bracket. I removed the big round mount and filled the cavities with SIKA Sealant and also did it to both the upper & lower torsion mount. I don't think I will ever have a problem breaking them again. The engine is just as quiet as it was without the sealant. Make sure you do the upper torsion mount measurement 4.71" from the back engine mount bolt to the hole in the Cruise Control bracket after installing your mounts.

Other Parts I changed: NTK O2 Sensors, IAT Sensor, Map Sensor, Camshaft position sensor, Crankshaft position sensor, PCM with Mopar Stage 1 Program. If it could be unbolted I wanted to change it. I try to buy all NGK/NTK electronics as most are made in japan. Remember the good old days where you never wanted to buy anything that was made in Japan, but now days they make some of the best parts. My Turbo has the Aluminum Manifold which allows you to change all the spark plugs and wires without removing the intake manifold or anything else. I used NGK Iridium IX Plugs and NGK Turbo Wires.
 
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