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Rick Burton said:
...that's just it,I don't have the oblong holes, just one round one...
You do have the oblong holes.



We are talking about the motor mount bracket assembly, not the mount itself. As you can see in the picture above, this engine is adjusted all the way towards the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Bob,

I have the v6 3.0
I got ngk, they were supposed to be 0.044 but they are 0.040
Bamman,

Those are the holes I'm referring to and mine aren't like that.

if someone will tell me how to post a pic, I'll put it up. thanks!
 

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I remember one aftermarket mount which I bought did not have slotted holes. I took a Dremmel and made the slots myself. I was then able to move the engine.
 

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Anchor brand mounts have been known to cause vibration problems in Chrysler setups. You could probably search and find other complaints. I'm not sure that is the problem here, but I thought I better mention it.
 

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Oh, you have the V6. I missed that in your earlier posts. This applies to you then:



 
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Try wrapping a little bit of electrical tape around the MAP nipple to increase the diameter a smidge. If you pull the tape tight, it'll conform very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ah, finally an answer. The Haynes manual totally left this info out.Thank you guys for all the help. I greatly appreciate it.

So, I'm gonna get an alignment, center the engine, change the gap on the plugs to the correct one, and put some tape on my map sensor. Did I leave anything out? lol
 

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Rick Burton said:
Ah, finally an answer. The Haynes manual totally left this info out.Thank you guys for all the help. I greatly appreciate it.

So, I'm gonna get an alignment, center the engine, change the gap on the plugs to the correct one, and put some tape on my map sensor. Did I leave anything out? lol
Regarding the PM you sent me, I'll respond here for your benefit and the benefit of others.

Actually, I don't have a 1995 manual, so the info below is from a 1991. Often the specs carry over from year to year on identical models, but perhaps someone here with a 95 manual can confirm. Anyhow, I hope the text is readable. Getting the alignment is a wise move.



 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks John!
So I re gapped the plugs today. Will center the engine tomorrow. The change in gap smoothed out the vibration in the steering wheel a lot. It also changed the timing omg the big vibration that was happening about every minute. Note it's about every three or so minutes in between these big bursts that vibrate the whole car. For the first time it did this while the car was still moving as I was coming to a stop , it vibrated right before I was totally stopped.

I don't remember if I said this before or not, but it vibrates a lot as you move the gear selector into any gear for s few seconds and is really vibrating when it's in reverse.
 

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GET the motor mounts centered before anything else. They are the first key and then to a 4 wheel alignment, if you can afford one. I always have a 4 wheel at least once in 5 years. If you notice while driving behind some vehicles, a lot of then going down the road sideways? I bet they are eating those tires off! and constantly have to hold pressure on the steering wheel to go straight but think nothing of it.
 

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A four-wheel alignment is a bit of a waste on these vehicles, IMO. The rear is just a beam axle, so once it's aligned, it stays aligned as long as you replace any shims that were put in. Front-wheel alignment is certainly a good idea, but I don't think it has too much to do with the vibration Rick mentioned.
 

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In general a 4 wheel alignment is probably overkill though I will add the '92 Acclaim I had long ago needed new shims at roughly 100K miles. The thrust alignment I had done at the time showed the rear to be just out of alignment. So yeah, maybe a 4 wheel alignment every X years would be acceptable. Otherwise a normal alignment should suffice.
 

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B10alia said:
A four-wheel alignment is a bit of a waste on these vehicles, IMO. The rear is just a beam axle, so once it's aligned, it stays aligned as long as you replace any shims that were put in. Front-wheel alignment is certainly a good idea, but I don't think it has too much to do with the vibration Rick mentioned.
But the shims can corrode away. I had that happen on the rear axle once and I'd have never known it but for the 4 wheel alignment. I assumed the wear on the tire was happening when it had been on the front before it was rotated to the rear. I did not look closely enough when rotating.
 

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I had to have shims put in behind the rear spindles on my 1986 Voyager. I remember the alignment guy complaining about what a nuisance it was, but he commented the the rear should be good for life if it never gets hit.

Most of the chain store tire places will charge you for a 4 wheel alignment but rarely do anything but measure the rear camber and toe.

valiant67 said:
But the shims can corrode away. I had that happen on the rear axle once and I'd have never known it but for the 4 wheel alignment. I assumed the wear on the tire was happening when it had been on the front before it was rotated to the rear. I did not look closely enough when rotating.
The shims used on my 86 looked to me like fiberglass or some type of plastic .... green colored anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yea, the shims they have at my local parts store are some kind of blue plastic also.

Didn't get to the mounts today as it is pouring rain, but will since I want everything right, but would that cause this crap to happen only when the car is warmed up? It runs fine till that happens.
 

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Rick Burton said:
Didn't get to the mounts today as it is pouring rain, but will since I want everything right, but would that cause this crap to happen only when the car is warmed up? It runs fine till that happens.
You might have an engine miss at idle that could be adding to the problem. Are the spark plugs and wires fairly new? Also, on these 3.0's a rough idle can also be caused by a dirty throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
John,

Plugs are new,I haven't changed the wires yet though. Last night I discovered if I give it gas while in gear with the brake on, it does it every single time as soon as the gas is released.

Is it hard to clean the throttle body?
 

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Could be a vacuum leak in the brake booster. My Spirit does this, and the amount of whistling that the booster does certainly leads me to believe there's a leak in that circuit.
 

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Rick Burton said:
John,

Plugs are new,I haven't changed the wires yet though. Last night I discovered if I give it gas while in gear with the brake on, it does it every single time as soon as the gas is released.

Is it hard to clean the throttle body?
It's not that hard to clean the throttle body, but you may need some good torx bits. Note how the cables and wires are connected (perhaps take some pictures). Remove the cables and wires. Unbolt the throttle body. Remove the TPS, Idle speed motor, and anything plastic. Spray the throttle body clean with carb cleaner (use protective gloves and eye protection to guard against spray back). Blow out the TB with compressed air. Make sure the idle speed motor pintle and seat (in the throttle body) are clean and free of any gum or deposits. Check any O-rings on the TPS and idle motor for damage and replace if needed. Replace TPS and idle speed motor and replace the throttle body to the plenum. Re-connect all cables and wire plugs. That's about it.
 
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