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Weirdness with sudden braking '06 PT Cruiser Touring - FIXED

757 Views 19 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  AllanC
A local dealer replaced a wheel speed sensor on my '06 PT Touring after they diagnosed the problem with my ABS light being on when I took it in for a renewed inspection sticker. The light was out for a little while, then the red "BRAKE" light on the panel came on and the ABS light returned. My brakes were working fine, and I drove it to an appointment. When I left after my appointment and started out of the parking lot, the car came to a sudden stop as if I had slammed on brakes. It did the same when I started off again, and it seemed to me to be happening as soon as the transmission would shift to 2nd, so I put the shifter in 1st and saw that it would go without stopping in 1st gear.

I called AAA and got a tow home so I could check it out instead of sending it to a shop. It hasn't pulled that same trick on me since I brought it home but I haven't tried it out except on my private road (about .7 miles long). I don't think it would be a good idea to take it back out on the road, since that kind of thing seems dangerous to me. I'm not going back to that dealer because of how long they kept my car just doing the sensor, and getting it wrong when they did. The two lights, BRAKE and ABS are still on but no trouble codes.

If anyone has any input, I'd appreciate hearing from you.
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You probably need a more sophisticated scanner that can access the ABS module. But I suspect a bad signal somewhere is triggering the ABS system.
Can the ABS system be disabled on the '06 and still have functioning brakes? The dealership said that their diagnostics found a left front wheel speed sensor. I assumed that they used a sophisticated scanner, but who knows. My old usual mechanic died so the current guy working there might not know what he's doing. That sudden stop was like braking, and not a transmission lockup, I'm pretty sure. I don't like ABS brakes anyway and would rather not have them if they can be disabled without disabling anything else. If the ABS system applied the brakes without any input from me, I really don't want it working.
. . . . I called AAA and got a tow home so I could check it out instead of sending it to a shop. It hasn't pulled that same trick on me since I brought it home but I haven't tried it out except on my private road (about .7 miles long). I don't think it would be a good idea to take it back out on the road, since that kind of thing seems dangerous to me. I'm not going back to that dealer because of how long they kept my car just doing the sensor, and getting it wrong when they did. The two lights, BRAKE and ABS are still on but no trouble codes. . . . .
Pull fuse #34 and fuse #35 in the TIPM. These power the ABS logic module. With the logic module disabled you will just have conventional, power assisted braking and no threat of sudden ABS engagement. Then you can drive the vehicle safely and get proper diagnosis of your choosing on your time schedule. See attached image.

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If the yellow ABS warning light came on, a fault code is stored in the ABS module. Pulling the fuse will probably erase the code. It may have to occur again to read the code.
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. Some cars, like my wife's Sorrento, have other circuits fed from the same fuse as the ABS. I just wanted to know before pulling those fuses and trying it out.
If the yellow ABS warning light came on, a fault code is stored in the ABS module. Pulling the fuse will probably erase the code. It may have to occur again to read the code.
Thanks.
You can do an internet subject search for sudden or false ABS activation. Here is one discussion on this subject.

You can do an internet subject search for sudden or false ABS activation. Here is one discussion on this subject.
I had done a little reading, but didn't read anything in shop owner's magazines. Thanks for that. I've noticed that the dealership I used relies heavily on contacting Chrysler for suggestions, which indicates to me that their "mechanic" doesn't know how to interpret his findings in a diagnosis. If he concluded that there was a bad speed sensor when in fact there was an actual brake condition on that wheel that had triggered the ABS light, then replacing the sensor didn't fix the problem. I've noticed that since the pandemic scare, many businesses that I was used to using lost employees and replaced them with incompetent people. That dealership seems to be one of them.
You can do an internet subject search for sudden or false ABS activation. Here is one discussion on this subject.
Aha... I just opened the TIPM and the 30a. maxifuse in the #34 position was missing. That would give me the ABS light on the panel, so maybe it could have caused the false braking too. I'll get a fuse and see how this goes. Good thing the '06 isn't a daily driver. I'm long retired and don't drive daily. ;-)
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So, how do I add "Fixed" to the title of my post?
So, how do I add "Fixed" to the title of my post?
All set.
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Congratulations on the fix. You are tenacious, like bulldog! LOL
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Congratulations on the fix. You are tenacious, like bulldog! LOL
Ah yes. Tenacious like bulldog, and maybe also crazy like fox. ;-)
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. . . . .So, how do I add "Fixed" to the title of my post? . . . .
So what was the specific fix that corrected the sudden ABS activation? Replacing the fuse in position #34?
So what was the specific fix that corrected the sudden ABS activation? Replacing the fuse in position #34?
I'm assuming so. The ABS light and the brake light are gone, and I tried out the ABS on my gravel road. The ABS now works normally, and the brakes stopped the car in a quick stop from about 25 mph without locking the wheels on the gravel surface. I didn't get the sudden unwanted braking at about 15 mph during several trips up the road, so I think it's fixed. When I removed the old TIPM and replaced it with the rebuilt one, I had only given it a quick glance and saw that both of them had an empty socket for a maxi fuse and hadn't really looked at the fuse arrangement until you posted the diagram.

I feel pretty stupid, but I did learn some things out of this. Thanks again for the diagram, and thanks to everyone who joined in.
. . . .I'm assuming so. The ABS light and the brake light are gone, and I tried out the ABS on my gravel road. . . . .
Fuse #34 controls the solenoid valves and fuse #35 controls the pump motor in the ABS hydraulic unit. It seems strange that part of the system would function (and cause havoc) while the other portion of the system was electrically dead. Definitely something to keep in mind.

Thanks for the update.
Fuse #34 controls the solenoid valves and fuse #35 controls the pump motor in the ABS hydraulic unit. It seems strange that part of the system would function (and cause havoc) while the other portion of the system was electrically dead. Definitely something to keep in mind.

Thanks for the update.
So, the automatic panic stops might start back up? I'll keep it in mind for sure I don't know enough about how the system works to even have an opinion one way or another, One common thread in the discussions of those sudden stops online is that they happen between 8 and 15 mph. If it happens again, I'll know not to call a tow truck, at least if I don't get rear-ended, just pull both fuses and drive home.
. . . .So, the automatic panic stops might start back up? I'll keep it in mind for sure I don't know enough about how the system works to even have an opinion one way or another, . . . .
I did not mean to cause you any apprehension about unexpected sudden ABS activation again. But you have the right idea to pull both fuses, #34 and #35, if it does happen. That way power disabled completely to the entire system and you have stopped any ABS operation.
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