You probably need a more sophisticated scanner that can access the ABS module. But I suspect a bad signal somewhere is triggering the ABS system.
Pull fuse #34 and fuse #35 in the TIPM. These power the ABS logic module. With the logic module disabled you will just have conventional, power assisted braking and no threat of sudden ABS engagement. Then you can drive the vehicle safely and get proper diagnosis of your choosing on your time schedule. See attached image.. . . . I called AAA and got a tow home so I could check it out instead of sending it to a shop. It hasn't pulled that same trick on me since I brought it home but I haven't tried it out except on my private road (about .7 miles long). I don't think it would be a good idea to take it back out on the road, since that kind of thing seems dangerous to me. I'm not going back to that dealer because of how long they kept my car just doing the sensor, and getting it wrong when they did. The two lights, BRAKE and ABS are still on but no trouble codes. . . . .
Thanks.If the yellow ABS warning light came on, a fault code is stored in the ABS module. Pulling the fuse will probably erase the code. It may have to occur again to read the code.
I had done a little reading, but didn't read anything in shop owner's magazines. Thanks for that. I've noticed that the dealership I used relies heavily on contacting Chrysler for suggestions, which indicates to me that their "mechanic" doesn't know how to interpret his findings in a diagnosis. If he concluded that there was a bad speed sensor when in fact there was an actual brake condition on that wheel that had triggered the ABS light, then replacing the sensor didn't fix the problem. I've noticed that since the pandemic scare, many businesses that I was used to using lost employees and replaced them with incompetent people. That dealership seems to be one of them.You can do an internet subject search for sudden or false ABS activation. Here is one discussion on this subject.
Aha... I just opened the TIPM and the 30a. maxifuse in the #34 position was missing. That would give me the ABS light on the panel, so maybe it could have caused the false braking too. I'll get a fuse and see how this goes. Good thing the '06 isn't a daily driver. I'm long retired and don't drive daily. ;-)You can do an internet subject search for sudden or false ABS activation. Here is one discussion on this subject.
All set.So, how do I add "Fixed" to the title of my post?
Thank you, Bob.All set.
Ah yes. Tenacious like bulldog, and maybe also crazy like fox. ;-)Congratulations on the fix. You are tenacious, like bulldog! LOL
So what was the specific fix that corrected the sudden ABS activation? Replacing the fuse in position #34?. . . . .So, how do I add "Fixed" to the title of my post? . . . .
I'm assuming so. The ABS light and the brake light are gone, and I tried out the ABS on my gravel road. The ABS now works normally, and the brakes stopped the car in a quick stop from about 25 mph without locking the wheels on the gravel surface. I didn't get the sudden unwanted braking at about 15 mph during several trips up the road, so I think it's fixed. When I removed the old TIPM and replaced it with the rebuilt one, I had only given it a quick glance and saw that both of them had an empty socket for a maxi fuse and hadn't really looked at the fuse arrangement until you posted the diagram.So what was the specific fix that corrected the sudden ABS activation? Replacing the fuse in position #34?
Fuse #34 controls the solenoid valves and fuse #35 controls the pump motor in the ABS hydraulic unit. It seems strange that part of the system would function (and cause havoc) while the other portion of the system was electrically dead. Definitely something to keep in mind.. . . .I'm assuming so. The ABS light and the brake light are gone, and I tried out the ABS on my gravel road. . . . .
So, the automatic panic stops might start back up? I'll keep it in mind for sure I don't know enough about how the system works to even have an opinion one way or another, One common thread in the discussions of those sudden stops online is that they happen between 8 and 15 mph. If it happens again, I'll know not to call a tow truck, at least if I don't get rear-ended, just pull both fuses and drive home.Fuse #34 controls the solenoid valves and fuse #35 controls the pump motor in the ABS hydraulic unit. It seems strange that part of the system would function (and cause havoc) while the other portion of the system was electrically dead. Definitely something to keep in mind.
Thanks for the update.
I did not mean to cause you any apprehension about unexpected sudden ABS activation again. But you have the right idea to pull both fuses, #34 and #35, if it does happen. That way power disabled completely to the entire system and you have stopped any ABS operation.. . . .So, the automatic panic stops might start back up? I'll keep it in mind for sure I don't know enough about how the system works to even have an opinion one way or another, . . . .