It's only fair to report like I did with the %$^&#@! lower radiator hose transfer tube pinhole leak, what I did to resolve the inadequate lighting out here in never-never land. A person would have to be mighty careful doing something like this where there is other traffic. Things like adjust lamp aim way, way down. The car is a 1994 Spirit.
I ordered and installed the HELLA 80/100 watt 9004 headlamp bulbs. I read more conflicting advice, accounts, testimonials, warnings, and Danger Will Rogers, on the web about those Hella bulbs. Everything from "They don't work, to stories of flaming wire harnesses, blown lamps with destroyed headlight housings. Rants and raves about relays, ten gauge wire, ceramic lamp sockets. The list was horrific. I decided to rely on common sense...
The car has a headlight relay from the factory and since it is a Bosch style relay, it'll certainly handle 17 amperes total from both 100 watt lights. End of story. The OEM wiring looks to be in 'tween size, maybe 17 gauge. Enough to handle 8 amps each. Yes there is voltage drop and yes only a fool tries to power 12 volt quartz lamps with 14 volts. Just ask any sailboat cruiser. So forget harness upgrades more wattage, and hotter sockets. Everything is OEM, except the bulbs.
Do the Hella's produce "more" light? Yes. How much more? Significantly. Is the lighting less yellow? Yes. Did this satisfy my need to really light up the road? No.
I had purchased a pair of dirt cheap 55 watt Harbor Frieght rectangular driving lights. I did not like the big holes through the reflector on the base of the lamps, so I disassembled them and plugged the holes, all of them with black silicone sealant. I let the sealant dry a long time. I figure if headlights can work well, sealed, so can the driving lights.
I looked at the dash, and I looked at the firewall. I did not like what I saw. No really good place to mount a switch, and worse yet was access to behind where any switch would mount. I could use the switch as a ground for a relay coil wire but this is 2013. I went on AMAZON and purchased a wireless relay control unit for around twelve dollars. It uses a key FOB switch with 2 buttons. Of course I was not going to risk the control unit so I added a TYCO relay to actually fire the lights. High Beam operation. 30-amp fuse protecting a 25 amp auto reset breaker protecting the TYCO, and a 5 amp ATO fuse protecting the wireless unit.
But I am forgetful. So no way was I going to wire the circuit straight to the battery. Yeah right, park the car walk away with the fog lights blazing...I supplied the driving lights POWER relay the TYCO with ignition to the relay coil. I shut off the engine and the driving lights die and stay dead until I press the key fob again with the ignition switched on.
Flawless operation. The key fob works through firewall or hood 100% perfect. Works from 100' distance with the hood closed.
With 310 watts of halogen lighting now, I can see asphalt colored steers, bottomless potholes with faint echos of Chinese music coming out of them, undercut shoulder edge pavement, large rocks the Mexican drivers leave on the highway after they drive away from their portable "wheel chocks".
Propabably 35 dollars spent on materials. And no hint of armageddon backlash 'cause I did it all-wrong.