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Maybe this question have been asked, but if not, I ask it now. What is simply the best engine oil brand to use on:
1-2.2/2.5
2-V6 3.0
Or any other engines powering the EEK cars.

And should we use Lucas additives (Me, I say a big NO!!! But if anybody have something to say about them, please say it)

The oil for winter should normally be 5W30 (unless you live in southern USA), but how about using it in summer? Any comments on this?
 

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little bit crazy
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i just use gtx 5w30

nothing fancy

i use it all the time everytime

i just can't justify $10 or more for a liter of oil
 

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It depends on the climate/temps where you live. 20w-50 is a factory recommended oil for my 2.2/2.5's. Read your owners manual, understand the viscosity/climate chart that's in it, and make an informed decision.
 

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Maybe this question have been asked, but if not, I ask it now. What is simply the best engine oil brand to use on:
1-2.2/2.5
2-V6 3.0
Or any other engines powering the EEK cars.

And should we use Lucas additives (Me, I say a big NO!!! But if anybody have something to say about them, please say it)

The oil for winter should normally be 5W30 (unless you live in southern USA), but how about using it in summer? Any comments on this?
The best you can do for them engines if they are in good shape and not leaking too much oil is to run 5W-30 Synthetic oil in them year round, unless you live in a really hot climate use a heavier Synthetic.
 

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Here in Florida, I use 10w-40 Castrol GTX in my 94 MMC 3.0L V6... Works good....
 
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i've been using Pennzoil 5w30, it's what the owner the before me used so i continue using it and it runs just fine for me summer or winter( live in MI). but i've been told by a couple of family mechanics as long you change your oil every 3,000 miles it doesn't really matter what you use as long as you use a good quality oil filter and name brand oil. but that's just me.
 

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I use CASTROL GTX 5W30 all year round. I sometimes add a bottle of the Lucas Oil stabilizer in the winter - the cold starts are much easier. All other oil changes I use a bottle of the STP Engine Oil Additive (it comes in a smaller blue bottle and is about $3). Seems to work for me.
 
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I also swear by Castrol motor oil. The weight you use will depend on climate and mileage. I also recommend Slick 50 engine treatment for a high mileage engine, especially if it's using oil. In some cases it will stop it but it will definitely reduce it. The key to using any oil is to change it every 3000 miles. I recommend Fram oil filters as well. Consumer Reports has consistently rated them very high. I understand Ford oil filters are made by Fram, so that would work if Fram isn't available.
 

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Turbo I engines come from the factory reccomended 10w30 all year around. I assume this is due to the heat they endure; 5w30 would become water at some of those temps. I also use Castrol GTX, in the above weight. Considering using Castrol Syntec, but want to make sure the oil stays in the engine first. :D
 

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I ALWAYS use Valvoline 10w40 and a Napa Gold filter. This filter is made by WIX. WIX is the best filter available. More filter media and none of the "cardboard" that is in the fram/motorcraft/supertech....and other less expensive brands.... Yeah sure you can get them for $2-3 at walmart, but you get what you pay for. Napa Gold is approx. $5-7 and WELL WORTH IT!
 

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Stready as Tulip goes will win.
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Jag,

You're in northern areas that get really COLD like -15 often during winter?

Then stick with 5W30 even 0W30 if the 3.8L is tight. Necessary for easier starts and get oil moving quicker.

Cheers, Wizard
 

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In my '91 Sundance RS 2.5L TBI, I use Mobil 1 10w-30 year around, and I've pretty much always used this oil in my engine. The oil filters I use are always top quality, either Napa Gold or Mobil 1. Few times, I've tried Purolator Pure One, and it seemed good as well.

The oil pressure, according to my Autometer gauge, stays between 12-18 lbs all the time at hot idle.

On the highway, it's always between 40-50 lbs, and with the engine revved up, it's about 60 lbs.
 

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I've been using 10w30 conventional in my 3.0 since I bought it. I recently changed it to Mobil clean 5000 5w30 for the colder months and although it has better oil pressure on startup, I noticed more valvetrain noise and a little smoke while revving. Next oil change I'm going back to 10w30.
 

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im currently using mobil 1
 

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I use Mobil 1 EP 10W30 with the Lucas full synthetic additive, I also use a Trasko filter. I never have problems with it, no smoke, no anything (except for the 3.3 rattle). I get 10K miles out of an oil change, oil is cleaner with the Trasko filter after 10K than 3K with regular filter (even the Mobil1 or K&N).

My oil pressure always reads well over half... hot or cold, cruise or idle, doesn't matter. I don't know the pressure in PSI, but it's at least 30% higher than other cars like mine running ordinary stuff (they all end up switching to what I use).

Many people seem to think that synthetic oil will make leaks worse, or even cause them... whatever. It may temporarily leak out of a dirty seal, but it will stop when it gets cleaned out. I've put this stuff in dozens of engines, all conditions, no leaks ever (a leaking main seal decided to stop leaking too).

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic (15K mile) with a 10K "Trasko oil refinery" (flashy name for a good filter). Syntec is good oil, I don't use it because it doesn't have as much endurance as the Mobil 1. If you use regular filters, and want to save a dollar fifty a quart, go ahead and use Syntec. They have more weights to choose from.
 

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i use 10- 30 in summer and 5-30 in winter. either weight is quaker state Q synthetic in my 3.0 and its still changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. and im in MN if that helps for temp variations

-Adam
 

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Woah I run Mobil Synthetic, I didnt know u can go 15 000 miles on oil changes.. I usually do oil chagnes every 4500 km.. but it makes my 3.0 happy..
 

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Tulip's 0W30 GC, plan to leave there for 8,000KM with oil filter change once. Money saver and very GOOD on those winter coldest times. I really appreciate that oil.

Cheers, Wizard
 

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I think the best oil to use is CLEAN oil. I'm of the school that uses major brands of oil and filters. Cheapest maintenance you can do. NAPA oil is made by Valvalin as is Carquest's.

IMHO synthetics are not cost effective. Given all things equal except the oil I can get 300,000 on an engine using non-synthetic. Let's see 300,000 divided by 3000 means 100 oil changes. Regular oil @ $2.50 per quart x 5(qts) X 100 = $1250 for the the life of the engine. If I have to pay $7.50 for synthetic (and sombody said $9?) Then my cost for oil triples or quadrupals. That's an additional $2500 or $3750 just for oil. Want to drive the car farther? Then for that price I can buy a rebuilt engine and have it installed and go another 300,000 miles or save enough to paint the car at 150,000 miles and feel like I'm driving a new car. Or take an additional 8-10 days off from work every year and don't drive anywhere.

Better gas milage with synthetics? bosh - What you have to look at is operating cost/mile driven. Adding $25 of operating cost per 3000 miles is 10 gallons of gas or 250-300 miles you could have driven for the same price. That means you'd have to get 8-10% better gas milage just to break even. Checking the air in the tires on a regular basis will get you that.

I think that repairing my own cars and having them run longer/cheaper/better than the average person is more environmentaly friendly than going down and buying a new car every 5 years. Making a new car is not environmentally friendly, not at all. Nor is using synthetic oil. Nor is paying interest on a bank loan.

This from a 1988 Sundance Operating manual:

"SAE 5W-30 engine oil is prefered for use in all engines..[ up to 100 degrees F]. You are highly encouraged to use SAE 5W30 engine oil to aid in low temeperature starting and for improved fuel economy.

"SAE 10W-40 and SAE 10W-50 engine oils are not recommended for use in any Chrysler Motors vehicles. These oils should never be used in any turbocharged engines"

Stevemc
 
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