Allpar Forums banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
I never really used name brand oil, the house brand is always made by somebody like pennzoil, valvoline etc, personally your car doesn't give a crap what you pour in the crankcase won't run any better or worse either, Synthetic oils have proven in all tests to be better than conventional all the way around, yes it is beneficial to use them for all reasons, they don't change viscosity in cold, they don't breakdown anywhere near as fast so you may not have to add oil in between changes, can be good for up to 10,000 miles have to change the filter every 5,000 though, conventional even generic conventional can still make it to 5,000 miles, 3,000 miles has been put in our heads by oil change giants like Jiffy lube etc... They lie, not to say it's a bad thing to go every 3,000 but why if you don't have to, don't believe me, next time you change your oil take a sample as it's draining have it analyzed the testing will tell you how your oil held up and most of all will probably tell you it could have went for longer time.

Using a good filter is a great idea you are protecting your engine from dirt, metal particles from the moving parts that are naturally wearing inside of it, you don't want this stuff eating your crank and cam bearings period, I recomend wix if you can get it, fram is ok, but the casing is thin and well it's not what it used to be years and years ago put it to you that way, it probably wont hurt your engine, but there's much better quality than what they make out there for around the same price. A good oil filter should also have a good antidrainback valve built in to keep your car from dry starts every morning, put it to you this way if you first start your car after it sat all night and you can hear a knocking noise until the oil pressure rises then its a piece of junk buy a different brand its no good that will take it's toll on your crank bearings over time.

Lucas isn't really necessary but I have seen it raise oil pressure on cars with low oil pressure and I have seen it reduce oil burning on cars that burn it, my opinion is if you use conventional and you don't mind spending the extra money go for it, not needed with synthetic but who really keeps their car forever now a days most rust out after 15 years or more or full service, on top of that things just break and rust and break, unless its a classic gem or some sports car or rare vehicle probably not worth buying synthetic as no one will spend money to keep it in good shape for years to come, many will throw them away and buy another, so be wise with your decision. I have had cars with almost 300,000 miles and ran generic conventional all the way, never had internal motor issues or sludging.

The only thing you are doing by purchasing Castrol is putting more money in their pockets, I'd rather keep it in mine, people can think whatever they want, hey its up to you, I really think it is more of a matter of preference, some people believe that a name like Mobil or whatever has more on the line so they will try hard to keep the quality of the product consistent and free from impurities, but I can tell you that there isn't many other ways to make oil or refine it so what difference does it make what brand you pour down there, they have to meet or exceed industry standards and guidelines anyhow to be able to market and sell their product legitmately. If you want to know a key secret its on the back of your oil bottle, read your owners manual for oil recomendation, it might say use 10w-30 meeting SLor SG standards, then go into your parts store pick up the bottle read the back it will tell you meets industry SG standard or whatever. Follow this and you wont void your waranty as long as you follow the scheduled interval.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
628 Posts
I also like using premium fuel every few months for the cleaning agents added by many refiners.

In all actuallity it may appear as though it would be cleaner, but the factor is it is a waste of your money unless it is required that you use 89 or better octane for your engine, all fuels since sometime around the 90's use a concentration on alcohol(ethanol) already in them for a few reasons 1 is cleaning, 2 to keep it from freezing, 3 cleaner burning.

So in a nutshell this means that additives like gumout, heet, etc... will dillute your fuel down with even more alcohol since all octane levels have a 10% concentration of this already in them and 90% gasoline this means since alcohol is corrosive you are asking for more problems down the road with your fuel system, basically by using these so called cleaning additives like bottled injector cleaner and heet at your parts store you are increasing the amount of alcohol in your gas, even though alcohol is a good cleaning agent, it dissolves things like rubber, plastic, fiberglass and more, so what is my point, what are your o-rings on your injectors made from, what is your fuel line made from, what are the hoses going to your fuel tank made from, get my drift, the 90/10 mix at the pump is the safest level you can get period going more than this you are risking damage to your fuel system and it's parts over a period of time on top of that alcohol also corrodes things and eats things getting them stuck in your pump, filter and injectors.

Why do they sell it to you then you might ask because people will still buy additives like this, reason it seems to work because the higher concentration of alcohol might appear to unclog in their mind but is really deteriorating more things internally, so for the xtra clean feeling you think you get you are rewarded with more breakdown and deterioration and rot inside which will clog things again, since most systems also have a fuel return you are inviting this stuff to come back and float in your tank as well.

I say this also to mention 87 has the same alcohol as 89, 92 etc... There is no additional cleaning agents, the cleaning agent they advertise is a gimmick to get you to stick with BP, or Shell gasoline, the alcohol cleans but too much and it becomes bad for your fuel system components, even further can damage your engine possibly, point is unless it calls for you to use higher octane, don't bother, and most of all don't use fuel additives or cleaners.

If you suspect your fuel system is dirty, 1 change the filter, 2 have a shop professionally clean the injectors with their system. If they offer seafoam or anything else don't bother.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top