BTW i do not get a dime for offering this suggestion. I am surprised that it worked.
It only worked for about 6 months to quiet the lifter noise. Now, i am going to have to open up the engine and replace some things to stop the noise. Hopefully, it is not more than the camshafts, timing chains, valve lifters and arm valves thingysI would not recommend running it all the time, but have used it as a flush for ticking lifters and sludge. I also use it in fresh engine builds as a supplement to "finish" the bores during the first thousand miles.
LOL, no I used the MMO for a while first, But, I just got all of the parts in that I ordered from MOPAR camshafts, etc. So now I hope that I can stop the noise for real. Since, the noise came back, I do not praise the MMO any longer.Is that tongue in cheek humor, Taxi Girl? After camshafts, timing chains, valve lifters and rocker arms, all that is left are the nuts and bolts. Does MMO also cure baldness?
So HD oil meaning 20W-50? That's really thick. So, my theory is off. Not surprised. I sometimes get something in my head and since it makes sense to me, I run with it. Thank you for this useful information. Now, I wonder if maybe for my engine I should put 10w-30 with 318K miles instead of using the 5w-20 or 5w-30? Synthetic of course.Hmmm. Hydraulic lifters are pumped up by the oil and a too low viscosity will cause the lifter to bleed too quickly---equals noise. Now, viscosity will lower metal-to metal contact was it builds a thin surface between mating parts. But like a hammer hitting a nail, that type of contact isnot where the oil's viscosity is effective. Sort of like looking at gears. Hypoid and then worm and worm wheels have greater sliding contact forces than involute gear profiles so heavy duty oils are specified (by that I mean HD oils with great shear strength).
In this regard, I have a story. We had a problem with a foreign-designed piece of machinery that was pistol-hot when operating because it had a hypoid gear set (we're talking maybe 1,500 hp). We tried increasing oil flow and adding some circulating holes. No significant change. Finally, I asked a Mobil rep to take a look. He studied the design and returned with a recommendation. Change to their HD series and we would see a 25% reduction in heat. We tried it and BOOM, the gearbox cooled significantly. The oil was designed for the higher shear forces created. Also note that oil does not take away heat but doesn't allow it to be created. Which is what synthetics do in comparison to dinosaur oils (in synthetics, per him, all the molecules are one size).
It only worked for about 6 months to quiet the lifter noise. Now, i am going to have to open up the engine and replace some things to stop the noise. Hopefully, it is not more than the camshafts, timing chains, valve lifters and arm valves thingys
AMEN to that! Trying to mask a problem doesn't correct it and that same lubricant also affects the other mechanicals in the motor.You should use nothing other than the recommended viscosity of oil.
Too thick will cause as much problem as too thin. Thick oil won't flow as fast when cold and may not protect the tighter tolerances on a modern engine as well as the recommended thinner oil.
Do you think the engine tick noise could very well just be the roller rockers? Even with having 318K miles as in this video?AMEN to that! Trying to mask a problem doesn't correct it and that same lubricant also affects the other mechanicals in the motor.