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WHAT STOPPED THE LIFTER NOISE 2011 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN

52830 Views 38 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  TaxiGirl
Over a year ago, I had to get one of the heads opened in order to replace #3 and #5 rocker arms. Well about 6 months ago, I started having the ticking noise again. I put up with it for a month or so,
I found a video on Youtube that was talking about using Marvel Mystery Oil and although I have added it oil before in small amounts, I had never used as much as a quart. Mostly, I put it in the fuel tank. This time instead of using 6 quarts of synthetic oil, I used 5 quarts and used 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. After about 3 days the noise stopped and has not come back for over 3 months. Every oil change I started to do the same thing. At first I was using 5w30 and the last time to 5w20 but, I think i will go back to 5w30 because the Mystery Oil is real thin. BTW it smells really good also..

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Is that tongue in cheek humor, Taxi Girl? After camshafts, timing chains, valve lifters and rocker arms, all that is left are the nuts and bolts. Does MMO also cure baldness?
Hmmm. Hydraulic lifters are pumped up by the oil and a too low viscosity will cause the lifter to bleed too quickly---equals noise. Now, viscosity will lower metal-to metal contact was it builds a thin surface between mating parts. But like a hammer hitting a nail, that type of contact isnot where the oil's viscosity is effective. Sort of like looking at gears. Hypoid and then worm and worm wheels have greater sliding contact forces than involute gear profiles so heavy duty oils are specified (by that I mean HD oils with great shear strength).
In this regard, I have a story. We had a problem with a foreign-designed piece of machinery that was pistol-hot when operating because it had a hypoid gear set (we're talking maybe 1,500 hp). We tried increasing oil flow and adding some circulating holes. No significant change. Finally, I asked a Mobil rep to take a look. He studied the design and returned with a recommendation. Change to their HD series and we would see a 25% reduction in heat. We tried it and BOOM, the gearbox cooled significantly. The oil was designed for the higher shear forces created. Also note that oil does not take away heat but doesn't allow it to be created. Which is what synthetics do in comparison to dinosaur oils (in synthetics, per him, all the molecules are one size).
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GLHS60 is correct. No oil is going to correct a worn part or overly loos tolerances. Sort of like saying that some miracle oil will reduce piston slap when the source is too short a skirt or/and too loose a tolerance between piston and bore.
You should use nothing other than the recommended viscosity of oil.
Too thick will cause as much problem as too thin. Thick oil won't flow as fast when cold and may not protect the tighter tolerances on a modern engine as well as the recommended thinner oil.
AMEN to that! Trying to mask a problem doesn't correct it and that same lubricant also affects the other mechanicals in the motor.
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TaxiGirl, this thread is related to your other thread in which your title asks how long you can run with a broken rocker. And in the other thread, you talk about the familiar ticking sound. Am I missing something that is different between these two threads? The video you just posted at 1:31 is what was covered in the other thread. Or are you now asking if you can get some mileage by using a different lubricant?
In fact the noise did go away completely for 6 months.
The same as me saying that the noise went away as my 70 year old ears lost their hearing. The problem was not corrected. Tapping? What tapping?
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TaxiGirl, the cam follower is that little roller on the rocker arm. It is always in contact with the cam surface following the surface in the cam creating the motion of the valves. On the push rid motors, it is the lifters (hydraulic or solid) that are in contact with the cam so they are the followers.
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