Allpar Forums banner
1 - 13 of 26 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening,
I'm getting a headache and am dizzy reading through all these posts of builds.
What I'm searching is, Which 318 block to start with..
A later model roller, or early ('67-up) NON-roller 'old school'..
Found 2 online close to me. One fully built w/Indy heads and another in pieces but build able.
Actually went to a pull-it today looking and found 3 engines that were mostly out already. 1-roller, and 2 mid-80's
AND went to amazon and got a used "How to Hop up Chrysler small blocks"

I'm figuring on about 300-350hp tops
It's going into a Dodge/Mitsubishi mini 'auto' truck with 3.54 to 3.73 gears

Then I get to askin myself, (well, I'm really asking you guys)
--Are there any changes in head castings between the 'stock', O.E., roller, NON-roller, and magnum?
--I've heard of the '302' casting being good. BUT what are other good flowing castings that WILL BOLT ON to ___ Block?
--What about the after market heads? Who's best? or is it a personal preference? (got a lead on a set of Indy heads...)
I've ported most all of the head/heads of the engines I've built. SO, I don't have a fear of trying to eeek out a few more HP from a head by
a little grinding.

OK, what about different front timing covers?
--Do the serpentine belt assys fit the older V-belt cases/block accessory bolt holes? (I'd like to get the smooth quiet running)
--I need air cond and power steering for my application.

Lastly (for now), what about flex-plates? Will they all fit a RH torque converter/trans? (that's the one that I'm looking to use)

Gotta jet.. bye
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again guys.
The Indy heads are already on the engine for sale..
Dana44, what sharp edges? I know that GM's offerings aren't near the aluminum ones and have even
ground down the casting marks/ID's on the bottom of the valves. (that was an extreme case though).
I've done TONS more Honda heads than GMs. Lot better casting and greater heat dissipation through better 'plumbing'.
I know that AMC had a good swirl casting air flow to run higher compressions, is that the same with Chrysler?

So what years/models did the MAGNUM heads come on?
Dakota, Durango, Ram, or cars?

Taz.. Is that the casting # or part number?

Errol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 'Yards' here seem to have TONS of Jeep version of the 318 in the early 90's trim.
I also read that the Jeep utilizes the starter on the D/S or Left side. Since I have read this, I'm leaning toward the Jeep since the little Dodge (mitsubishi) has the starter on the same side and wouldn't need to re-route the wiring that much.

SO with that info, would it be justified to get a WHOLE Jeep 5.2 LONG BLOCK minus the intake/fuel assy?
Of course I would keep the serpentine system, but what about IGNITION?
Does a aftermarket intake just BOLT ON, and a regular distributor DROP IN?

It would probably help to use a Jeep RH 2wd trans also, incorporating a B&M converter lock-up 'kit' that's pretty universal for early overdrives.
(buddy has one and loves it!) that can be adjusted in the cab..

Another thing.. What does these engines use as tool sizes? Metric like all the imports or S.A.E.? (I hate how GM started using 15mm..!! NOT TOO MANY "TOOL KITS" USE 15mm and really
twists me..

Again thanks and is there a sub-topic area to post my build for others to learn?

Errol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bronze gear.. Gotcha. Just like the GM rollers and some marine apps. And intake like the Vortec heads on GM stuff. Straight up and down (but only two at each corner that's why the intake gaskets fail and pour coolant into the lifter valley/oil)

Back to the heads.
In the tech section on this site, it states that the Magnum heads have valve train differences mainly the 1.6 rockers versus the 'ol stock 1.5 putting more stress on the pushrods and their holes/guides. (I would suppose that this is about an early block w/Magnum heads)
I wonder if anyone has messed with mixing the ratio's between intake and exhaust with good results?
I mean, if one tries a turbo app and uses the 1.6 on the exhaust side (and 1.5's on the intake) for a more complete emptying of the charge out the exhaust. And maybe smoothing out an aggressive cam by using the 1.6 on the intake and 1.5's on exhaust to give more overlap.... Hhhmm

Does the after market offer 'Roller' rockers? (If so, I bet they're expensive)

OK, before I get way too carried away, What casting numbers have what chambers that would HELP a 318?
I got the porting stuff down. But need to know which castings are the better choices.
I LOVE to go 'a yardin' as they say. Just need to pull some valve covers.

Once I get things together, I'll post a how I didit type of thread, and go from there.

Thanks again.
Errol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Me again.. Reading more in the tech section it states that one of the first things to do is to upgrade the cam to the 340/360hp cam. Is there a upgrade cam for the rollers or does it go to the aftermarket? I've seen vids on Youtube showcasing Summit cams for the LA engines. I wonder if they have a slightly upgraded cam for the roller blocks or just resort to a regrind. Bullet Cams is only a 5min drive and they will most likely be regrinding my LT1 cam for my 328ic (that is gonna just piss off the BMW crowd here) (( a '98 328ic, black/black w/hard top option with a LT1/ 4l60e from a Fleetwood with 70K and a stock 3.91 rear is gonna be wearing out tires)) But for some reason, I'd 'almost' rather have that ol '65 New Yorker that needs a total resto. TOO many projects. BUT since the 318s don't have adjustable rockers, it might not be cost effective since they would need to grind lots away.. Here's Comp's choice 264/274, 512/512" with stock ratios (computor though NOT carb'd) Errol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds good, and I'll give them a look-see.

I was grinding a set of Vortecs and was taking down the edge of the quench and was watching one side more than the other, and didn't notice that I went past the fire ring mark... POOP'd the head.
It's kinda weird that when you try and take down a guide boss it takes SOOOO LOOONNNG but if you go past the fire ring, it's in the blink of an eye..
Does taking down those seat ledges really make a difference in SOUND? I wonder if back-cutting the exhaust valve does anything for sound?
Waddya think of using Tulip shaped INTAKE valves and Polished, high flow (and back cut) exhaust? Or reduced stem..
I kinda think of an adjustable hose sprayer nozzle (just happening LOTS faster) Starting as a fan then reducing to a thin stream. That's why I really don't hog out or 'de-shroud' the side of a combustion chamber near a valve seat. Unless it's like right up against it. (4 valve/cyl)

Mostly I leave the surface ruff with the bit, but try to keep the passes almost overlapping. And when I did do the sanding rolls, It isn't that much. (those dang little things are just too expensive. The glue that they use isn't what it used to be. They come apart easy! Scaring the crap out of you sometimes)
Now, this is just street, N/A heads, going from stoplight to stoplight. NOT revving at 7k or more..

I remember reading/seeing some foreign auto maker milling troughs in the piston tops (solid dome) to create more turbulence in the quench area. NOT real deep, just about 1/8" BUT about 1/4" wide, ball end mill.
Thought of doing that on some of my Domed Honda pistons. There isn't much if any quench in between 4 valves, pent roof chamber in there. (I just can't afford 80-90+$$/hr shop labor. I'd love a CNC, X,Y,Z axis Bridge-Port. But then I wouldn't get much sleep,
drinking Mountain Dew and RedBull, unshaven with flies a buzzin, smellin like burnt cuttin fluid.. Then the garage door shuts as yer walkin/stumblin toward the house)

So Sorry.. Had a MOMENT.

Errol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going down a little further, this little mini truck had a front sump. Goofy me just looked at it shortly and with my pile of Chevy parts I found a nice little 283, .060 shortblock on Craigslist with forged pistons, I ported the Vortec heads and ex268 cam in front of a 200r4 overdrive. I thought for sure that a Chevy II pan/pickup would clear and didnt' think twice. Well, now I have this 283 just sitting and NOTHIN in my truck. Even chopped up the floor for the wider trans. Why I say this is looking at the sump area and pickup for the 318, I thought of tapping the pump's output hole for a AN line and mounting tabs to the mains, along the pan rail and then down to the desired sump area. (front) There I would like to make little fingers/tabs mounted to the sump's floor that would hold the circular pickup at about 3/8" off the bottom. Allowing me to put it wherever I want (within limits) I have several pans laying around and thought of welding together a hammer head shaped pan baffled out to either side. Does anyone make a aluminum pan for heat dissipation? AND, how about a oil filter relocation 'kit'? Do the universal ones work without leaking? E


I don't know why it does that..
I had to edit and then it wouldn't let me re-post. I had to go 'full editor' and then submit.??

E
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BTW, this is what the Jeep drive train is going into. '89 Mitsubishi mighty max 1-ton (basically the same as the Ram50
I already did the Toyota rear and front spindle/nuckle swap for the 5x4.5 Conquest 16" rims. (I think that they're around 26-27" tall) The rear is a 3.73 I think.
Should be fun!
E

 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
SO.. I picked up a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 that showed 225k on it but after pulling the intake and valve covers that it may have been rebuilt at some point, or they changed the 'earl' often.

After dinner, I get on Rockauto and took a look at 5.2 pistons (just for the heck of it since the mileage) and to my surprise was pistons offered with TWO RINGS?
Is this "STOCK"?
I won't know what the pistons and bores look like until i pull the heads tomorrow.
Then I find THIS...!!

http://www.shop.headsonly.com/JEEP-52-59-V-8-REBUILT-CYLINDER-HEAD-1993-AND-NEWER-JEEP-52-59-MAGNUM.htm

That's cheaper than what I can get a set rebuilt for!
I might just do a quick port on them and replace.

E
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Dana44, I've read a couple of others threads building the 318's and one said that they were using "STOCK" roller rockers.
His was a 2000 yr head I think.
Well, Mine is a 94/95 and would like to know at what year did the 318's come out with roller rockers, and will they swap on ANY Magnum heads?
I'm heading out to another LARGER yard looking for all the front accessories/brackets and would like to know.

I got on Amazon and quickly picked up a "How to hot rod the Chrysler 318" but it only goes up to about 1987.
Is there another book that covers the later Magnum engines?

Thanks E
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think that it would be less expensive for me to purchase a Chrysler to GM trans adapter since I have 4 rebuilt tranny's to choose from.
It's about 350.00 for the adapter and about that JUST for a REBUILD-ABLE CORE!

Thanks E
 

· Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You sittin down? (don't hate but..) It's a '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (same as the Dodge Ram50) long bed, 1-ton with toyota front rotor/hub and rear axle swap to get the 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
Rear gear is a 3.73(?) from what it rotates out to be. I posted a pic of it somewhere on here...
Or look here. http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=346 I'm a member here at Hotrodcoffeeshop.com

And I just found another long bed at the pull it and wanted to make a trailer from that ones bed/frame but they said that it would be about
350-400.00!! OR, I could just buy the bed for 99.00 and cut it up to make a 2-3' extension to mine.
It's just that the truck is about 5 spaces in from an Isle AND ALL THE WAY in the back of the yard.
It's gonna be fun to lift that bed high enough THEN try and push a 'A' frame out to the Isle for them to bring up to the front.

Errol
 
1 - 13 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top