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Hello....this is a great site and just what I needed with this head gasket repair job I'm researching.

I have the classic symptoms of a bad head gasket but I have a question about my Turbo 2.2.

I want to purchase the proper OEM Mopar head gasket as recommended by this site's users, but I've read on Autozone's tech articles that there is a Turbo 1 that uses a unique head gasket and that this gasket can't be used on a Turbo 2 engine.

My engine is in a "87" Chrysler New Yorker. The valve cover just reads "Turbo" and not 1 or 2.

Summit Racing has a OEM Mopar Performance 2.2 head gasket # P4452006 for $46.99 but it doesn't specify Turbo 1 or 2.

Is that the proper 2.2 gasket for my application? I'm a first timer on this job. Thanks!
 

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You have the T2 turbo, and the gasket listed will fit all of these engines.

I recommend STRONGLY not buying from Summit Racing. They made me wait 3 weeks for that gasket this winter, then told me they were back-ordered to May. Instead, I went to Mancini Racing, and they had the gasket for $15, shipped to me in about 4 days. Others have had the same experience. Instead of $100 from Summit, I paid about $50 from Mancini for gasket, bolts and shipping.

You should also buy new Mopar Performance bolts, since they are torque-to-yield and are designed for single use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have the T2 turbo, and the gasket listed will fit all of these engines.

I recommend STRONGLY not buying from Summit Racing. They made me wait 3 weeks for that gasket this winter, then told me they were back-ordered to May. Instead, I went to Mancini Racing, and they had the gasket for $15, shipped to me in about 4 days. Others have had the same experience. Instead of $100 from Summit, I paid about $50 from Mancini for gasket, bolts and shipping.

You should also buy new Mopar Performance bolts, since they are torque-to-yield and are designed for single use.
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Great information. I'll go with your recommendation and purchase from the source you mentioned. I'm still figuring out whats needed for this job and I'll definately get the new head bolts.

I see from the tech articles here that the head can be lifted with the intake/exhaust maniforlds and turbo still attached to the head as an assembly My old Chiltons made it sound like all those parts needed to be removed individually first before the head could come off.

Its weird but I have 107 psi compression in all 4 cylinders but I'm getting coolant in the #2 cylinder and it's discolored the plug ceramic a bit brown. I'm assuming its a small seep area between the water jacket and the bore. No coolant in the oil and I don't believe there is oil in the coolant either for that matter. There is only 27 K on this reman 2.2 turbo Mopar engine I got from Chrysler some years back and the head's going already. Must have been an over heating somewhere along the line. Cheers!
 

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In my case, my thermostat stuck shut. I shut down within seconds, squeezed the hose and popped it open. But at 203K miles, it was weakened. Two days later it started to run warm, then steam at idle just as I got home. Luckily, no warpage. The failure was at cylinder 1, right rear, gasket blown out just enough to steam the cylinder clean. I also had furious bubbling in the radiator from combustion gases.

Definitely leave the manifolds attached. Undo or cut the bolts at the exhaust flange. Parts stores have new ones, $15 a pair, including the springs; $8 for the donut gasket. Since you'll be removing the timing belt, it's a good idea to change that, too. Much easier than I thought.

The hardest part was undoing the crank pulley bolts. You will be unbolting the 5 bolts around the center, NOT the center bolt - leave that in place, the pulley comes off around it. You will have to remove the alternator and A/C compressor from the bracket and swing them out of the way (no need to discharge freon). To get the timing belt off, you will have to jack up the engine by the oil pan just to take weight off, and undo the right motor mount to slip the belt off.

If you have specific questions, lots of people here can help.
 

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"87" Chrysler New Yorker" I would guess its NOT a turbo 2. Is it intercooled? If not, I'd bet it's a T-1
The 006 gasket should NOT be used on a T-1. It will over heat the head! The exhaust gas temps will go sky high. Dealer has or can get head gaskets that work very well. If not, let me know, if you need one fast, I keep a 1/2 dozen here in the shop all the time.
my email: glhs289[at]hotmail.com
 

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OK, so he wants the P4452005 instead. But I'd still go with the Mopar Performance brand for durability, and Mancini has them cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"87" Chrysler New Yorker" I would guess its NOT a turbo 2. Is it intercooled? If not, I'd bet it's a T-1
The 006 gasket should NOT be used on a T-1. It will over heat the head! The exhaust gas temps will go sky high. Dealer has or can get head gaskets that work very well. If not, let me know, if you need one fast, I keep a 1/2 dozen here in the shop all the time.
my email: glhs289[at]hotmail.com
You'll have to excuse my ignorance here, but what is intercooled? Thanks. I want to make sure I ID this engine correctly.
 

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In order to make more power, and to allow more boost pressure, the air that the turbo compresses is fed through an intercooler, which is like a "radiator for air" that dissipates the heat buildup due to compressing the air, before bringing it to the intake manifold. Without it, the turbo boost has to be less, and power is less. The first generation of turbo (T1) in K-cars did not have an intercooler, and made 142-146 hp. With an intercooler, it went to 174 hp.

You would see fat (3") air hoses going to and from the front of the car, into the radiator, if yours is intercooled. If not there, then it is a T1 non-intercooled engine.
 

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Since the T2 was introduced in many cars in 1987, I had supposed that yours was included.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Since the T2 was introduced in many cars in 1987, I had supposed that yours was included.
Not a problem. Thanks for helping out. I start researching WAY ahead of my planned project. Its all these little details that count! Cheers.
 

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I have three different gaskets here ( for the 2.2 and 2.5) and they LOOK all the same...just different part numbers.
Old Mopar P4452005

New Mopar 05281065

Dodge 5281064
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have three different gaskets here ( for the 2.2 and 2.5) and they LOOK all the same...just different part numbers.
Old Mopar P4452005
New Mopar 05281065
Dodge 5281064
Thanks for taking the time to post those part numbers. Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello again........I have that cylinder head / intake-exhaust manifolds, and turbo assembly pulled from my block and on my workbench.
As suspected there was a tablespoon of coolant in the # 2 cylinder. I still need to take a real close look at that old head gasket to see if I can read it a bit for trouble spots. What do you look for specifically around that #2 cylinder area on the gasket?

My question now is........What is the proper order of steps to strip all that gear off the head so I can bring it in for inspection and cleaning?

I'm assuming I start with the throttle body, then the intake manifold, then the exhaust manifold and turbo? Sound about right? I'm going around with penetrating oil and alot of those fasteners look like they will need quite a bit of heat and more applications of penetrating oil before they will loosen up. Should be interesting.

Thanks for any feedback about this part of the job.
 

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Here's where my headgasket was blown - just a small tear/rupture at cyl 1 between the water jacket at lower left corner, and the cylinder ring. You can see a shred sticking out into the coolant passage.



You can do a rough check on flatness at home with a metal straightedge such as a ruler or T-square. Try to pull a sheet of paper between the head and the ruler laid on edge across the head. Paper is about .004 inches thick, so if it's warped, the paper should slide freely somewhere between the head and the straightedge.

To take it to a shop, remove manifolds and cam assembly. You might be able to get the manifolds off with the turbo still attached to the exhaust.
 

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Yes start with the Thottle body side first. If I remember right the exhuast mainfold comes off before the intake mainfoild at least on a T2 car. Use alot of penetrating oil on the nuts for the manifolds. When you go to loosen them 1 of 3 things are going to happen: the nut breaks loose and off it comes Yay!!, the nut doesn't break loose and you pull the whole stud out still a Yay!!, or the nut doesn't break loose and the stud breaks off Boo!!! You should be able to get the mainfolds off with the Turbo bolted on the manifold, I know you can on a T2 car. Some of the nuts are tricky to get at and they are only a 10mm nut so becarefull. Oh don't forget to disconect the turbo lines that are bolted to the head.
 

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As it turned out myself and a buddy were able to strip that head down in about 90 minutes after 3 days of pbblaster soaking. So no major drama there thankfully.

Sent the head in and it turned out to have a crack after all. Makes sense as we didn't see much damage on the head gasket. So its time to go with a reman.

The guy who looked at the head is searching for a reman for me.

What are good online sources for heads if I have to find one? Can I get a core on my old head?

What about performance head/cam, or is that a waste of time? Do you have to make additional mods to make that a worthwhile purchase? Thanks lads, appreciate the feedback. Cheers.
 

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Your best bet might be to locate a Mexican casting from a turbo engine in the junk yard and have it gone through as in a good valve job and surface milling/surfacing. The Mexican casting has far less core shift and is more likely to hang in there should you have an issue in the furture.
 

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Like Bob said the Mexican casting is the best to get. Only problem, coming from a Turbo car more than likely it will be cracked too. You could also search Junk yards for a Mexican TBI head. The are more than likely not have any cracks and take it to a shop and have them re-work it for Turbo valves. Most of the "New" heads you find like on ebay are Chineese made. They are ok for stock aplications but don't handle very well for more boost pressure. I have sitting in my living room a ported/polished big valve 8 valve head. It flows about equal to a Turbo III head off the R/T cars, but it wasn't cheap. I had a Turbo Dodge Guru do it for me many years ago. Cams really aren't going to help on a stock head only on ported ones. I have a stage 3 cam in my Lebaron, but it's a stock motor. I only put it in there because I had it left over from another project I had.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I wasn't aware that there were variations in casting quality pertaining to these heads. Good to know.

I'll see what I can do.
 
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