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· Super Moderator
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You have the T2 turbo, and the gasket listed will fit all of these engines.

I recommend STRONGLY not buying from Summit Racing. They made me wait 3 weeks for that gasket this winter, then told me they were back-ordered to May. Instead, I went to Mancini Racing, and they had the gasket for $15, shipped to me in about 4 days. Others have had the same experience. Instead of $100 from Summit, I paid about $50 from Mancini for gasket, bolts and shipping.

You should also buy new Mopar Performance bolts, since they are torque-to-yield and are designed for single use.
 

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In my case, my thermostat stuck shut. I shut down within seconds, squeezed the hose and popped it open. But at 203K miles, it was weakened. Two days later it started to run warm, then steam at idle just as I got home. Luckily, no warpage. The failure was at cylinder 1, right rear, gasket blown out just enough to steam the cylinder clean. I also had furious bubbling in the radiator from combustion gases.

Definitely leave the manifolds attached. Undo or cut the bolts at the exhaust flange. Parts stores have new ones, $15 a pair, including the springs; $8 for the donut gasket. Since you'll be removing the timing belt, it's a good idea to change that, too. Much easier than I thought.

The hardest part was undoing the crank pulley bolts. You will be unbolting the 5 bolts around the center, NOT the center bolt - leave that in place, the pulley comes off around it. You will have to remove the alternator and A/C compressor from the bracket and swing them out of the way (no need to discharge freon). To get the timing belt off, you will have to jack up the engine by the oil pan just to take weight off, and undo the right motor mount to slip the belt off.

If you have specific questions, lots of people here can help.
 

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OK, so he wants the P4452005 instead. But I'd still go with the Mopar Performance brand for durability, and Mancini has them cheap.
 

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In order to make more power, and to allow more boost pressure, the air that the turbo compresses is fed through an intercooler, which is like a "radiator for air" that dissipates the heat buildup due to compressing the air, before bringing it to the intake manifold. Without it, the turbo boost has to be less, and power is less. The first generation of turbo (T1) in K-cars did not have an intercooler, and made 142-146 hp. With an intercooler, it went to 174 hp.

You would see fat (3") air hoses going to and from the front of the car, into the radiator, if yours is intercooled. If not there, then it is a T1 non-intercooled engine.
 

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Since the T2 was introduced in many cars in 1987, I had supposed that yours was included.
 

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Here's where my headgasket was blown - just a small tear/rupture at cyl 1 between the water jacket at lower left corner, and the cylinder ring. You can see a shred sticking out into the coolant passage.



You can do a rough check on flatness at home with a metal straightedge such as a ruler or T-square. Try to pull a sheet of paper between the head and the ruler laid on edge across the head. Paper is about .004 inches thick, so if it's warped, the paper should slide freely somewhere between the head and the straightedge.

To take it to a shop, remove manifolds and cam assembly. You might be able to get the manifolds off with the turbo still attached to the exhaust.
 
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