[ImperialCrown]

Maybe a door ajar/dome lamp switch plunger has collapsed far enough to be on the verge of showing an open door even when all the doors are fully closed? These do tend to settle shorter over the years.
The plunger button can be extended and then by closing the door on it should set it to the correct height.

 

[Doug D]

In addition, have the battery checked. I've had a weak battery give me odd electrical issues.

 

[jglen490]

If your battery is good, another possibility is the Body Control Module. All the symptoms are from BCM-controlled components.

 

[valiant67]

I'd start looking at the contacts for the sliding door, though it could be any of them. Not that uncommon for them to move enough, combined with a lazy sensor, to think the door is opening when it isn't.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Agree. Start diagnosis with the simplest/cheapest things like door switch adjustments. The sliding door switches are at the rear pillar by the 1/4 panels. Pull the center stems out to reset the adjustment, like the front doors.
The 2 spring-loaded contact buttons at the front of the sliding door make contact with the body-side contact plates with the door closed and carry the power lock current into the door.
A BCM is a remote possibility, but would be the last house on the block.
Don't forget the hood switch adjustment, if one is present. They usually are on VTSS-equipped vehicles. Extend the center stem and re-close (not slam) the hood on it.
A door switch can be 'tickled on' from body flex like starting out from a stop, bumps, turns or temperature change.

 

[DennisMillard]

I finally found and fixed the problem. It turned out that the drivers door switch was bad. After a trip to O'reileys and 6 bucks it works again.