The correct part number Fram for your application engine is PH16. But the filter PH3600 fits and even though the diameter is smaller it probably has very near the same internal filtering material surface area. Just because a spin on oil filter has greater height and diameter, it does NOT mean there is more filtering material inside nor is it better.

Go to this site and enter the appropriate Fram filter part numbers and look at the specifications. The only differences are a slight, 0.05 inch gasket diameter difference and gasket thickness. Internal filtering media material would be the same. The different filter number has NOT caused any harm to the engine lubrication system.

http://www.framcatalog.com/Application.aspx?b=F

 

I will agree. If the filter did not fit (as in the rubber seal was not wide enough to seal against the holes in the oil filter boss), it will leak. Otherwise, the oil comes out through the big hole, gets filtered, and moves through the small holes. No matter what, if is filtering and pumping through the galleries, no leak, no problem, size isn't everything.

 

When I bought my 85 Daytona new, after 49K miles I started using the larger slant-6 filter on it (PH-8A). At about 135K miles, it was in the dealership for a clutch, and the mechanic told me that the idiot who did my last oil change put the wrong filter on, and that pressure would build up and it would blow out the case of the filter, causing my engine to seize immediately. Funny, I told him, I'm the idiot, and it's been on there for 85,000 trouble-free miles, 25+ oil changes, with no damage. He backed off and muttered that it still wasn't a good idea.

I now have owned 4 Daytonas, the last one went 308K miles on the original engine, using that size filter, ran like new. I have a total of over 500,000 miles across those 4 engines, using that filter. As long as it fits and the engine runs OK, that filter should be fine for you.

 

Bob is absolutely correct, the larger filter simply filters over a larger area, and about a 2/3 cup larger volume of oil, which is never a bad thing. As long as the gasket doesn't leak, it is essentially a correct filter, the oil pump itself has a relief valve within its construction to prevent pressure from getting too great.

 

There was actually a TSB in the early '80's about not using a large filter on the 2.2L because of oil drainback and longer fill times. If the car sat and was started, sometimes you would hear a bearing rap before the oil pressure light went out.
The smaller (Mopar# 4105409) 'tea cup' filter filled faster, there was no rap and the oil pressure light went out as soon as it started.
Filtering media capacity was about the same. Bigger filter (volume) is not necessarily better.
The V6 filter points down, so it always retains an oil fill for the next start.

 

So I've done about 130 oil changes on these engines, and every single time, the filter was completely full of oil, no drainback at all. No bearing rap, never noticed the oil pressure light on. The filter sits horizontally. I could see where it might be an issue on other engines. My wife had a Toyota, and sometimes the filter drained dry (it sat upright), sometimes full - even with the same brand.

 

The Only OIL FILTER we had to recall and change the numbers in all the owners manuals was back when the early L body Horizon/Omni were equiped with the VW 1.7 Liter engine. On some cold Frigid start ups, the high oil pressure from that engine actually blew up the oil filter. On the 2.2 late in 1981, a TSB as IC said came out to change all oil filter mounting pipes ( hollow threaded pipe) with a new standpipe that had a small checkvalve in it that would retain some small amount of oil pressure when shutting down the engine. I still have one here in parts junk box in my garage! We simply switched over from the Fram PH16 to the Tea cup filter as room became a priority near the alternator and other applications. It seems most all other brands of vehicles have done the same thing to save space under the hood. The Old S-10 Blazers had a remote filter up near the battery with V6 models as there just wasn't enough room down on the crammed engine back then.

 

On the 2.2 late in 1981, a TSB as IC said came out to change all oil filter mounting pipes ( hollow threaded pipe) with a new standpipe that had a small checkvalve in it that would retain some small amount of oil pressure when shutting down the engine. I still have one here in parts junk box in my garage! .

MOPAR PERFORMANCE used to sell the hollow mounting pipes as an oil "un restrictor" for the later engines with the check ball !!
I always remove the check ball on my engines due to the slight restriction the check ball might create.
Appreciate the memories!!

Thanks
Randy

 

Lol. My 89 Caravan Turbo with a Napa oil cooler setup on it always wore a big block Chrysler filter. Equal to a Wix 51515. It fit better without the cooler, but it was ok. Put right at 200K on it as a daily driver and service van for my business before a tornado got it.

 

I have been using a PH8 instead of the PH16 oil filter on my 92 Grand Voyager with the 3.3 liter for over 10 years. There are no clearance issues and nothing is near the filter to hit it. The only thing close to the filter is the lower radiator hose, which was under the PH16 filter.
When using the PH8 instead of the PH16 filter I can put a full 5 quarts of oil in the engine instead of the 4.5 quarts and have an extra 1/2 quart of oil sitting around.

Here is an oil filter study http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

 

I have been using a PH8 instead of the PH16 oil filter on my 92 Grand Voyager with the 3.3 liter for over 10 years. There are no clearance issues and nothing is near the filter to hit it. The only thing close to the filter is the lower radiator hose, which was under the PH16 filter.
When using the PH8 instead of the PH16 filter I can put a full 5 quarts of oil in the engine instead of the 4.5 quarts and have an extra 1/2 quart of oil sitting around.

Here is an oil filter study Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

Ford FL-1A filter...not the fram but ford with better and more filter media on my 1998 GC 3.3L for 15 years now... zero issues of any kind!
just sayin"

 

ATTENTION ALL!
Do yourselves a favor and AVOID FRAM oil filters. Go with Purolator or Wix. There are plenty of independent studies out there to back this up.
If you want the BEST for your car, use the OEM MoPar filter, which is built by Wix or Purolator (depending on the vehicle line) to higher standards, especially in the water retention category.

 

The myth continues....and yet.....I have run mostly Fram filters for 37 years on 7 different cars, for a total of over 700K miles, with absolutely no damage. Last car went 308K miles and rusted out with the original engine running like new.

 

Concur... I used a lot of Fram's over the years and I had some high mileage vehicles that had many oil replacements using Fram filters. Generally, if I get burned one time by a product, I never use it again. The only oil filter that ever gave me a problem was a Bosch (result was very low oil pressure and knocking about 500 miles after the oil change - possible internal defect on this one unit). In the past few years, I just use what ever is on sale, or what ever Walmart has on the shelf at the best price. I almost never extend my oil changes beyond the manufacturer's recommendations.

For the 2014, I bought a case of Mopar filters since the bulk purchase price was cheaper than I could find anywhere for any brand.

 

Thanks everyone for the information. I guess I didn't realize they were all so similar. I have some Purolator PH8A-style filters left over from when I had my B-van, I'll probably use those. There's a mile of room around the oil filter on this vehicle. I don't get the Fram hate, either, I've used these off and on since forever, never any issues...though I've met people who insist they destroyed their engine with one.

 

In 37 years, I have had the rubber gasket come off and stick to the block three times. That's three filters out of about 200.

All three were STP filters. I won't use them again.

 

The oil filter study is now well over a decade old.

 

My newly purchased used Dakota had no maintenance records, so the next day I proceeded to change the oil. The filter was screwed on so overly tight I had to strap wrench it off; but the drain plug was barely finger tight. It could of loosened and fell off on the way home; dumping the crankcase 0n on the North Carolina interstate. Prolly the oil change was done at a quickie lube by a grade school dropout....

Filters to avoid= the white can no-name made in China; the buck you save is risking an expensive engine---not worth it. I buy what's on sale of brand name companies: Puralator, STP, Fram, never had a problem.

 

I'm not a Fram hater... Just passing on test info from Chrysler Engineering.

BTW - Amoco, now owned by BP, has the best quality fuel. Again, what was found in the tests....

And I use Pennzoil... Guess why!

 

I'm not a Fram hater... Just passing on test info from Chrysler Engineering.

BTW - Amoco, now owned by BP, has the best quality fuel. Again, what was found in the tests....

And I use Pennzoil... Guess why!

Could you give us some links to those studies?

Gasoline is gasoline, all comes down the same pipe.

Oil is oil, ditto.

 

I had no idea Amoco was part of BP now. They did used to be among the best with Sunoco (for premium) and Mobil. I stopped using Mobil when they joined with Exxon and there's not much Amoco here. I'd use Chevron but we don't have it.

DC-93, I don't mean to demand your experience, but how long ago was that?

 

Even the shrimp love BP fuel.....NOT.

 

I, too, later this past year cross - referenced over to a larger filter for my Neon and I am happy with that. I upgraded to the Fram XG Ph16 Ultra and it is fine. I actually have NOT been impressed with the original application filter. Fram is fine, although many swear that they have had problems with Fram. I have never had a problem with that specific product, but I also will not purchase the low end, basic filtration on any oil filter. I have had no ill effects running the slightly larger oil filter.

 

Someone told me that Chrysler now uses Fram filters... for what it's worth. I have no idea whether that's true or not.

Honestly, though, I just use whatever the dealer shoves in, which is one reason I am happy the 3.6 uses a basic paper filter which has much less to go wrong.

I have not purchased BP fuel since they were caught partnering with Halliburton in gross negligence, and later it came out that their application and environmental impact statement was a copy of the one they'd used for an Alaskan rig, complete with the signatures of men who had died before they filed it. Shame on the government for not catching it... but that department was under orders to do nothing at the time. (Along with the SEC.) Anyway, I used to be a regular BP customer and now I'm not.

Hess seems good but I am pretty sure they're regional. I don't get Sunoco any more since now I run regular...

 

Someone told me that Chrysler now uses Fram filters... for what it's worth. I have no idea whether that's true or not.

Honestly, though, I just use whatever the dealer shoves in, which is one reason I am happy the 3.6 uses a basic paper filter which has much less to go wrong.

I have not purchased BP fuel since they were caught partnering with Halliburton in gross negligence, and later it came out that their application and environmental impact statement was a copy of the one they'd used for an Alaskan rig, complete with the signatures of men who had died before they filed it. Shame on the government for not catching it... but that department was under orders to do nothing at the time. (Along with the SEC.) Anyway, I used to be a regular BP customer and now I'm not.

Hess seems good but I am pretty sure they're regional. I don't get Sunoco any more since now I run regular...

Maybe Bob Sheaves can chime in on this, but when I worked as a tech from '79-'94, we were told constantly that Fram made most filters for Chysler (domestic) and when fuel injecion came out, Bosch Corp made the EFI parts and filters. Also, Dave, read an article couple weeks ago that Hess had signed a merger to be integrated into Raceway Gas Stops as they wanted to expand their stations more. Hess brand should disapear by next year. I won't use Citgo, Bp, id I can help it. Mostly use Murphy, Sam's Club,Walmart, Shell, Valero, Texaco.

 

All the Hess stations have converted to Speedway stations here in Pinellas County (within past 2 weeks). I did purchase gas at a Hess station in Brooksville on Sunday (Hernando County). I suspect they will be converted soon, but don't know what the brand will be.

 

I stand corrected John. Couldn't remember Speedway or Raceway. You are right with that brand.

 

At one time Amoco Ultimate was the only fuel without alcohol in it because it was very clean burning but then came the EPA mandates and Amoco had to start adding alcohol to the fuel.

 

We can still buy gasoline without alcohol in my part of Florida but the cost generally makes it uneconomical. Right now my local Wawa station sells it for $3.60 a gallon, but their 10% E gas is $2.40 a gallon. I suspect the majority of customers for the pure gasoline are boat owners (and perhaps a few lawn mowing/landscape companies). We are close to the Gulf of Mexico and there is a huge recreational boating industry here. Many boat engines (and fuel systems) can't tolerate alcohol or damage will occur (potentially leading to a fire).

 

There are gas stations in Wisconsin that also sell regular gasoline without the alcohol for older farm equipment.

 

If it's for farm equipment does the retailer include federal and state gas taxes? Is there a sign stating "for off-road use only". I know of a few stations locally that sell diesel in a similar manner, but its to be used in non-road use vehicles/equipment.

 

Where I am located just 17 miles south of Daytona, there is a local Citgo which sells ethanol free gas for $5.00 a gallon and never dropped, even when the oil prices dropped. I won't pay his crooked price as my 2004 Nitro/Mercury 200 EFI runs fine on E10 gas since new.

 

Correct. In the late 1980s, Mobil was the only major brand that added the same level of detergent to its regular gas as it had in its premium. Word got around and Shell followed suit, then the others.

 

Just an anectodal note - I purchased fuel (87 octane) at Shell yesterday. I normally don't get fuel there as they are 6-10 cents higher than the other local "stations", but the Journey was extremely low on fuel and the Shell station was the closest. Anyway, I noticed the fuel had a different odor (more pungent? Dunno.) than the fuel at the convenience stores. I think it was the additives.

 

IIRC the additives are poured into the tanker truck before or after it is filled with generic gasoline [of equal or higher octane than pump markings] at the pipeline terminal. Sloshing, controlled by baffles in the tanker, is supposed to mix everything before delivery to stations' underground tanks. Once in a while it doesn't mix well enough [more often in winter] and you can get an overdose of additives. Too much anti-knock additive and your car won't start when its 0 F or -17 C but the same mix would work well in summer. I can't remember the time lags for underground storage tanks at various depths to be affected by changes in atmospheric air temperature except for 10 meters [about 32.8 feet] in common soils the time lag is about six months.