Has anyone out there ever completely removed the catalytic converter on a 2007 pt cruiser? Mine is going out and I'd like to just get rid of it completely. What problems am I going to have doing that ( besides emissions regulation)? What to do with the o2 sensor's? Can this be done successfully without computer problems? Thanks!
2007 PT Cruiser base 2.4L L4
buzz
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Me too. I got the right plugs last night . Going to put them in today. Anxious to see what the old ones look like, forgot the pcv valve but I'll get that too. I found a a cat con for $150 too. Not that bad. I'm not crazy about dumping chemicals in a car. I believe in a few injection cleaners can help but i don't know about some of these things I hear. What do you think about Seafoam in the gas tank ?
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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22,116 Posts
In the past 40 years, the only aftermarket fuel additive for gasoline engines mentioned by Chrysler in a TSB has been Techron for cleaning, decarbonizing fuel systems & combustion chambers.
Engineering couldn't possibly evaluate all the 'miracle mechanic-in-a-can' band-aid chemicals out there. Most of it is just marketing-fluff anyways.
![Image]()
Basically all of additives/blends that you need should be already in the approved fluids, including fuels. Follow the material standards (MS) for the recommended fluids like coolant, oil, sealers, etc.
The closest equivalent to Seafoam might be the Combustion Chamber Cleaner. As higher tier fuels are refined to remove the sulphur, they should produce less soot.
"On top of that, the U.S.'s Tier 3 regulations require gasoline to contain less sulfur, but the process of making low-sulfer gasoline reduces octane, making high-octane premium fuel more expensive to produce". Mar 20, 2023
![Image]()
Engineering couldn't possibly evaluate all the 'miracle mechanic-in-a-can' band-aid chemicals out there. Most of it is just marketing-fluff anyways.
Basically all of additives/blends that you need should be already in the approved fluids, including fuels. Follow the material standards (MS) for the recommended fluids like coolant, oil, sealers, etc.
The closest equivalent to Seafoam might be the Combustion Chamber Cleaner. As higher tier fuels are refined to remove the sulphur, they should produce less soot.
"On top of that, the U.S.'s Tier 3 regulations require gasoline to contain less sulfur, but the process of making low-sulfer gasoline reduces octane, making high-octane premium fuel more expensive to produce". Mar 20, 2023
I can't get the throttle body manifold off because of a stripped bolt. 2nd one from the left backside between the ports. Will not come free even with all the bolts out and wedging pressure up and pulling on the plastic housing. I can't get to rough with it or I'll mess this plastic up. The nut insert on the bottom is just spinning in the plastic housing. It was like this from the beginning. Acts like it's also warped because it rocks the entire plastic housing in a circular motion whith all the bolts pulled.
If I can get a pencil grinder in there and grind the bolt head off I might be able to get the bottom piece drilled out then go through with a different bolt and put a regular nut on the bottom. Would that suffice or not a good idea?
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
22,116 Posts
This stripping blind nut issue has happened to members here before.
No resolution posted back. He may respond to a PM? Last logged in 2022.
Steel bolt into a brass nut=bad idea.
No resolution posted back. He may respond to a PM? Last logged in 2022.
Steel bolt into a brass nut=bad idea.
Yep. Good info on the Stanley stuff. I'm going to go by a friend's house and see what he thinks too. He's got a pretty good shop and a pencil grinder. Thanks a lot brother your dang sure a great friend to have here. I'm impressed đź‘Ť I'll keep you posted.
05 PT Cruiser Classic 2.4 auto wagon, 05 Tiida/Versa 1.8 CVT, 09 Tiida/Versa 1.5 CVT
Joined
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121 Posts
I dunno if it's worth mentioning this, but I had a couple of instances, when I was in my late teens and early 20s, where I owned a couple of vehicles and this happened.
NOT straight after an oil changes though - that may be just one of those weird coincidence things?
Anyway, heaps of white smoke on start-up, which smelled nauseating. It would go away while driving under acceleration, but down hills with my foot off the gas, back it came, and at idle.
Turned out it was a pinhole in the brake booster diaphragm, and at high vacuum, the engine was hauling brake fluid in through the intake manifold and burning it. Unbelievable smell.
Second time it happened, on a different car, that was the first place I looked, and it was actually making a faint "whistling" sound.
Last up, and only slightly related, (no smoke), my next door neighbour was having seemingly incurable idling problems on a 5.0 litre Holden V8. It would stall at the lights and if he drove VERY slowly, it would die.
Full throttle pretty good, but a bit hairy around town at a steady low speed.
He fitted a new carb kit, then a complete new Holley, glugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor, drained and replaced the fuel, then did the PCV, (not necessarily in that order...).
Still ran like before.
Guess what?
Yup, booster diaphragm was split -it had gone all dried out and hardened.
Diagnosed by pulling the vacuum hose of it, and blocking it with my thumb. idled just fine, thanks. Reconnect to the boster, nope. Ran like a bag pf rocks.
So, a rebuilt booster, and it now runs like a Swiss watch.
The super-stinky smoke on my own cars it what gave it away, and it was thick, white smoke, not blue and smelling like burning oil.
Maybe???
Seems weird about the heater going out at the same time, unless a vacuum leak in the booster somehow affects it's operation? There are vacuum hoses all over the place on some vehicle heaters...
NOT straight after an oil changes though - that may be just one of those weird coincidence things?
Anyway, heaps of white smoke on start-up, which smelled nauseating. It would go away while driving under acceleration, but down hills with my foot off the gas, back it came, and at idle.
Turned out it was a pinhole in the brake booster diaphragm, and at high vacuum, the engine was hauling brake fluid in through the intake manifold and burning it. Unbelievable smell.
Second time it happened, on a different car, that was the first place I looked, and it was actually making a faint "whistling" sound.
Last up, and only slightly related, (no smoke), my next door neighbour was having seemingly incurable idling problems on a 5.0 litre Holden V8. It would stall at the lights and if he drove VERY slowly, it would die.
Full throttle pretty good, but a bit hairy around town at a steady low speed.
He fitted a new carb kit, then a complete new Holley, glugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor, drained and replaced the fuel, then did the PCV, (not necessarily in that order...).
Still ran like before.
Guess what?
Yup, booster diaphragm was split -it had gone all dried out and hardened.
Diagnosed by pulling the vacuum hose of it, and blocking it with my thumb. idled just fine, thanks. Reconnect to the boster, nope. Ran like a bag pf rocks.
So, a rebuilt booster, and it now runs like a Swiss watch.
The super-stinky smoke on my own cars it what gave it away, and it was thick, white smoke, not blue and smelling like burning oil.
Maybe???
Seems weird about the heater going out at the same time, unless a vacuum leak in the booster somehow affects it's operation? There are vacuum hoses all over the place on some vehicle heaters...
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