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I haven't had to replace the battery in our 2010 yet so I am not sure of the size.

As to brands the OEM MoPar battery in my Ram lasted 7 years before I replaced it preemptively with another MoPar battery - had a coupon for $20 that basically covered the cost of installation.

Just be forwarned, autoparts stores such as Advance Auto and AutoZone will not replace the battery due to it's location in the front fender well. As you probably know you have to remove the LF tire to access the panel and replace the battery.
 
It is unusual to be considering battery replacement on a 2013. Are you having issues with it discharging overnight? Has the dealership tested the battery/charging system? Has the vehicle been tested for IOD (ign-off draw)?
Any more information would be good.
 
Thank you for your response.
The dealer tested my battery while doing my PM oil change.
He showed me a receipt type print out that suggested I replace the battery.
I have never had any problems starting, etc.

Its just a mystery to me why the dealer would suggest replacement so quickly.
 
Unless you are located in the SW where it gets extremely hot (100+ F) and batteries only last an average of 3 years (4 if you're lucky), you can probably go another three years until it starts to fail. Like I posted the OEM battery in my Ram was 7 years old when I preemptively replaced it. That year winter was coming and I didn't want to chance it failing when I would need it the most.

Did the printout have any specifics or did it just recommend a battery replacement? I'd get a 2nd opinion. Auto parts stores such as AutoZone or Advance Auto will check your battery/charging system for free.
 
Thank you for your response.
The dealer tested my battery while doing my PM oil change.
He showed me a receipt type print out that suggested I replace the battery.
I have never had any problems starting, etc.

Its just a mystery to me why the dealer would suggest replacement so quickly.
Battery could have just been on the low side for that particular test. My recommendation is to put the battery on a slow 2amp charge over night just to be on the safe side and keep an eye and ear open for any unusual lights or warning chimes that seemingly have no source.
 
Many auto parts stores offer free in-car battery testing. You may want a 2nd test for comparison.
Was the receipt a CCA (cold cranking amps) test?
Being in an inaccessible spot, the battery terminals probably haven't ever been serviced. Was the battery test done at the jump-start posts? Going through 'possibly' dirty terminals would make the test invalid. Take both terminals right off the battery and wire brush the contact areas. Then retest.
 
Yep. Our Journey was exhibiting some no start issues at times. I ended up cleaning the terminals with a wire brush ($5). It made all the difference. FWIW - the Journey battery is accessed by removing the LF wheel and removing the fender panel. Access is still tight but there is just enough room to remove the cables and clean the terminals. Mine had a light film build up to cause issues.
 
Sorry to butt in here but if you've got a 2013 shouldn't that still be covered under the warranty? I had the original battery go on my former Neon once and the dealer replaced it under the car's warranty.

But if you need to buy a replacement then you can't go wrong with Costco's Kirkland battery. 80% of all car batteries are made by Johnson Controls anyhow. They are all the same just with a different label slapped on them. FWIW I replaced the battery on my Magnum last fall. The Mopar OEM model was $179.99 at the dealer and the Costco battery with a higher CCA rating and two years longer warranty period was $99.99.
 
It is unusual to be considering battery replacement on a 2013. Are you having issues with it discharging overnight? Has the dealership tested the battery/charging system? Has the vehicle been tested for IOD (ign-off draw)?
Any more information would be good.
UPDATE!!!!!

I have just returned from the Dealer with a possible cause for our dead battery woes. The tech I was dealing with found an IOD of 1.0-1.6 amps fluctuating. After a good trace, he narrowed it down to a "moisture " situation at the C203 connector affecting connections M27 and M11. He cleaned, repaired and reassembled the connectors and feels he has settled the issue. I'll keep you posted as the rest of the year and the cold weather approaches.....Finger crossed!!

P.S. Submitted repair time of 2.3 hours fully covered by my extended warranty
 
First real cold snap of the season, -25 overnight. No issues starting without battery blanket plugged in, cautiously optimistic about the rest of the year.
 
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Fortunately, it doesn't get that cold here (Virginia). Coldest I've observed in the past 5 years is 13 F. Expecting the first frost of the fall tomorrow morning. Expected low is about 25 F. It has been blustery today as the front moved through.
 
Just ran through a 3 day deep freeze up here, overnight temps below -20 F......no starting issues to report. I really hope we got this thing beat!!
 
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Just ran through a 3 day deep freeze up here, overnight temps below -20 F......no starting issues to report. I really hope we got this thing beat!!
I just can't imagine waking up to -20 F. We've had a cold spell here (well, cold for Virginia) with morning temps around 25 F. Let me clarify, I have experienced subzero temps before - about 25 years ago in Colorado. I remember the moisture from my breath freezing on my mustache. As I have aged, I find I don't like the cold weather as much. My wife, on the other hand, loves it (born and raised in Colorado).
 
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