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You really need to quit driving it until you get the cooling fan issue corrected, if it overheats to many times to the point of causing any damage, then you have a bigger mess.

 

As long as it’s moving and not sitting still it stays below the middle line on temp, only begins to heat up to a concerning heat if I’m sitting for around 2 minutes

 

. . . .First and seeming to be most important currently is that the radiator fan is not working and causes the car to start to overheat when not moving, I’ve looked in to a lot of other people with the same problem and am going to give the fan, and its relays a look as soon as I have time. . . . .

The PCM monitors engine temperature. When necessary it instructs the TIPM to energize either the low speed or high speed fan relays mounted on the cooling fan shroud. Check fuse #15 in the TIPM that it has not failed. Check for burned or meltled wiring at the electrical connector at the fan shroud. Spin the fan motor by hand and note if any strange bearing noise occurs or does not spin freely. See attached wiring diagram.

. . . . And lastly the AC isn’t working, it doesn’t blow hot but it doesn’t get any colder than just turning the AC off. . . . .

You need to attach air conditioning manifold gauge set to monitor suction and discharge pressures with the compressor running. The system may be low on refrigerant due to a leak. See attached chart for performance criteria.

 

The underdash diagnostic link connector (DLC) needs to power up the tool. Make sure that you have power & ground at the DLC.
If the 'ck eng' lamp lights, then goes out, a fault codes should still be stored in memory.

 

The live wire is hot but the ground wire is not working as a ground, any insight on what to do with that? Splice another wire off of that into any other ground is my first guess.

 

There is a bundle of grounds on the driver side fender behind the battery. This is a known problem area on the PT Cruisers. Remove the air box and maybe the battery and check these wires for corrosion and breakage. You may have to pull on each wire slightly in order to find one that may be broken under the insulation. Battery gases cause corrosion and sometimes you can disconnect them, clean them and the area the screw goes into the fender and rectify SOME issues. I'm not a mechanic and don't know that this will solve any of your issues, but it can't help to locate and clean these grounds anyway. I THINK 06PTElectricBlue has a photo of this area and will share it with you. Whaddya say, Rick?

 

I just removed the battery and the connectors broke from just the pressure of unscrewing the connectors, the terminals are also pretty rusty I’ll look some more into this.

 

G102 is out under the hood, next to the battery & is probably in trouble.
It looks like those nasty, salty Minnesota Winters corroded a lot of underhood electrical terminals. 🥶

 

G102 is out under the hood, next to the battery & is probably in trouble.
It looks like those nasty, salty Minnesota Winters corroded a lot of underhood electrical terminals. 🥶

I cleaned up those terminals but I tested continuity and it seems the wires broke somewhere along its path. Any insight before I look into the wires a little more?

 

See post #10. Follow Z905 up to S121 (S=splice). Of course the wire could be broken anywhere along its length, but splices can be a weak spot.

If you can't find the ground-break, add a ground jumper & continue the diagnosis.

 

The splice ended up not being the issue and there was no continuity from the splice up the the ground terminal so I ended up adding a jumper to some exposed metal and now the OBDII port works! Not sure how to look into code history to see the engine code for the engine surging but I’ve got a new battery new terminals and a working OBDII port for now!

 

At least your making some progress, you're going in the right direction

 

Also idk if someone has tampered with this before or is this car only supposed to have these few pins?

 

Not all cavities of the DLC link connector will be used. Empty ones were left for future use. Your connector is probably OK.
On a 2009, the PCM/TCM share the same module on the CAN bus.

 

This is the Data Link Connector in my PT, and it matches the pin out diagram:

Yours appears to have pins: 4,5,6,14,16