[George Andujar]

I sent myckee a PM directing him to this thread and your post, hopefully he can help you out

Thanks for getting in touch with myckee, forgot to set notifications.

 

[06PTElectricBlue]

Thanks for getting in touch with myckee, forgot to set notifications.

I sent myckee another PM directing him back to this thread, hopefully he'll reply soon.

 

[myckee]

Hi Myckee, thanks for the reply. Just to clarify. You could flash my Stage 1? If so, how much would that be.

Thanks again Rick!

Hi George, since you wouldn't need a VIN flash, and simply need a PCM flash, I would charge $50 USD plus $25 for the return shipping. You would be responsible for shipping the unit to me. I am located in Canada. I really think if you are having these codes, that the money would be better spent towards a replacement PCM though.

 

[George Andujar]

Thanks again Rick!

Hi George, since you wouldn't need a VIN flash, and simply need a PCM flash, I would charge $50 USD plus $25 for the return shipping. You would be responsible for shipping the unit to me. I am located in Canada. I really think if you are having these codes, that the money would be better spent towards a replacement PCM though.

Hi Mike, thanks for your suggestion. I guess I will try and source another PCM. I really appreciate your honesty.

God Bless
George

 

[06PTElectricBlue]

Hi Mike, thanks for your suggestion. I guess I will try and source another PCM. I really appreciate your honesty.

God Bless
George

myckee can help you with a replacement PCM, he also sells them, here is a link to his ebay store.

And if you don't see what you need in his store, contact him again and he can likely get what you want or need

Myckee's ECUs | eBay Stores (at https://www.ebay.com/str/Myckees-ECUs?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 )

 

[Freefam]

It looks like the O2 heater + supply is provided by the PCM shown here and tied to ground: 201
1-04-06_061853_2121.gif
The heater voltage is PWM (pulse width modulated) on the (+) side, meaning that the heater 'on' time is varied depending upon needs.
On a cold start, the PCM may apply almost full 'on' for fast warm-up to the heaters in order to get the car into closed loop operation ASAP. A voltmeter check can tell you if this is a PCM, wiring or O2 sensor issue.
Some aftermarket O2 sensors (Bosch?) have different heater resistance values than OEM values and can set these codes. Make sure that these are OEM (NGK/NTK) sensors if they have been changed.


P0031-O2 SENSOR 1/1 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored: Battery voltage above 10.6 volts, ASD is powered up, and O2 heater is
on.
Set Condition: Desired state does not match Actual state.
P0037-O2 SENSOR 1/2 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored: Battery voltage above 10.6 volts, ASD is powered up, and O2 heater is
on.
Set Condition: Desired state does not match Actual state.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
O2 SENSOR HEATER OPERATION
O2 HEATER ELEMENT
O2 HEATER CONTROL CIRCUIT
O2 HEATER CONTROL SHORTED TO GROUND
PCM

Sir. In the above quote is a gif diagram of the pcm connections. The brake level switch and I'm assuming the pwr steering switch it shows connections to several devices (to the left)? I can't quite figure out what those connections are.
I'm having the p031 p037 codes too. My pss sensor was/is leaking fluid into the connector, i have not changed it yet but did clean it good. Im wondering if that has been effecting my pcm (i have seen others with Oil contaminated connector causing fault codes).
What are those connections, common ground or something?
Labeled;
Fuel pump mod. Waste gate, o2s. Ground, etc.

 

[Freefam]

Sir. In the above quote is a gif diagram of the pcm connections. The brake level switch and I'm assuming the pwr steering switch it shows connections to several devices (to the left)? I can't quite figure out what those connections are.
I'm having the p031 p037 codes too. My pss sensor was/is leaking fluid into the connector, i have not changed it yet but did clean it good. Im wondering if that has been effecting my pcm (i have seen others with Oil contaminated connector causing fault codes).
What are those connections, common ground or something?

Fuel pump, waste gate, nvld, o2, etc

 

[ImperialCrown]

I have heard of P/S fluid being pumped into the wiring (like a hose) and causing trouble at the PCM C3 connector; cavity #30.
Look for signs of oil (it may also have that unmistakable odor of ATF+4) at the PCM end. Dry it and watch for oil to reappear. Absorbent cotton may appear to have a pink tinge.

 

[Freefam]

It looks like the O2 heater + supply is provided by the PCM shown here and tied to ground: 2011-04-06_061853_2121.gif
The heater voltage is PWM (pulse width modulated) on the (+) side, meaning that the heater 'on' time is varied depending upon needs.
On a cold start, the PCM may apply almost full 'on' for fast warm-up to the heaters in order to get the car into closed loop operation ASAP. A voltmeter check can tell you if this is a PCM, wiring or O2 sensor issue.
Some aftermarket O2 sensors (Bosch?) have different heater resistance values than OEM values and can set these codes. Make sure that these are OEM (NGK/NTK) sensors if they have been changed.


P0031-O2 SENSOR 1/1 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored: Battery voltage above 10.6 volts, ASD is powered up, and O2 heater is
on.
Set Condition: Desired state does not match Actual state.
P0037-O2 SENSOR 1/2 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
When Monitored: Battery voltage above 10.6 volts, ASD is powered up, and O2 heater is
on.
Set Condition: Desired state does not match Actual state.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
O2 SENSOR HEATER OPERATION
O2 HEATER ELEMENT
O2 HEATER CONTROL CIRCUIT
O2 HEATER CONTROL SHORTED TO GROUND
PCM

I have heard of P/S fluid being pumped into the wiring (like a hose) and causing trouble at the PCM C3 connector; cavity #30.
Look for signs of oil (it may also have that unmistakable odor of ATF+4) at the PCM end. Dry it and watch for oil to reappear. Absorbent cotton may appear to have a pink tinge.
View attachment 95680
View attachment 95681
View attachment 95682
View attachment 95683 View attachment 95684

So those g10x are common ground points? I checked the pcm con i saw no oil pushed up there. Clean and dry. I guess i was hoping that oil contamination could be causing it. I've not been able to get back to the car to do more checking. But it's looking more and more like pcm fail. The heater circuit seems to act properly using a volt meter back stabbing the pins while running. Even though the code says otherwise. Also. The sft and lft are flat line (0) on the scan tool graph as is the o2 sensor voltage flat line at 1.27v (peak) on the graph, both with any kind of throttle variation no change. Ideas?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Reviewing the diagnosis so far, I would lean toward a PCM as well. PT's do have a problem with cooking PCMs with engine compartment heat.
@myckee is our resident PT PCM guy. You might try reaching out to him for a replacement.

 

[Freefam]

Reviewing the diagnosis so far, I would lean toward a PCM as well. PT's do have a problem with cooking PCMs with engine compartment heat.
@myckee is our resident PT PCM guy. You might try reaching out to him for a replacement.

Reviewing the diagnosis so far, I would lean toward a PCM as well. PT's do have a problem with cooking PCMs with engine compartment heat.
@myckee is our resident PT PCM guy. You might try reaching out to him for a replacement.

FIXED.
SO, i though some would like to know how i cleared the p031-037 codes in my GT.
First off PT's are none for poor grounds. I added a second engine ground to the fender point near the batt. I added a second ground from the batt to the fender ground. Check your other grounds too.
Two new o2 sensors, mine are Bosch (4.6ohm) Some folks say use only the NTK brand but the factory manual says the sensors (heaters) should read between 3 and 20ohms. That's a good spread.
Look for oil contaminated connectors, they can cause shorts to power and to ground. I had a leaky PSP sensor that was making quite a mess, it's at the steering rack right near the 2nd o2S.
Next, and likely the cure. Disconnect the batt for 48 hours (i did the+ though others say the neg. ) i think + is better.
Some of you may have or consider swapping out the PCM and that cured it when actually it may have been the power interruption.
The real kicker in this story. I own 2 '05 GT convertibles one is auto the other MANUAL (a very rare combo) so i figured i could splurge on a factory crysler manual, i bought the 6 vol set on eBay $150. They are nice but are written for the DRBIII tool (several thousand dollars) now obsolete. They are still very helpful EXCEPT when they are wrong! Yes, wrong.
The manual says to check the heater voltage, you have to back stab the wires, engine running and cold. Should have 13 volts at start up with it pulsing down quickly. Ignore the comments about THE ASD relay (it plays no part in the NGC pcm's only the pcm's for the 1.6L engine), the heater is powered from the pcm. Next is where the book is in error.
Your next test is to unplug the o2 sensors and the pcm connectors. Measure the ohms of the ground wire in the harness connector to batt grnd- if it reads lower than 100ohms than the book says you have a shorted ground wire and fix it. This is erronious, as the heater circuit is grounded to the chassis of the car- NOT GROUNDED TO THE PCM. How do i know? It's nice to have a second car to check!
So, it's nice to have a good source for pcm's and Mykee can stage 1 them for you (tempting!). But, be thorough and you might just save yourself $400.
If you have a GT PT , i advise you to make this mod; remove the rear gasket of the hood. This will allow a lot of hot air to escape. Very little water can get back in there the way its designed.
I have not long term tested this but I'm very hopeful.
Also, my scan tool allows graphing. Before the hard reset my STFT and LTFT and o2 graphs were all flat lining. No Change under any circumstances. After the hard reset they are working.
Hope this helps.