Headlights are not on a fuse. They are on a self-resetting circuit breaker which s built into the headlight switch.

It is very likely you have a failed headlight switch. Hopefully the wiring around the plug on the switch is fine. The plug can melt due to excessive heat generated at th switch.

 

That is reassuring. I'm pretty sure everything is in good shape wiring-wise!
Thanks a lot for the quick response.

 

. . . Anyways, I am going to replace the switch once I can find one to order in-- is there anything I should be checking otherwise? any fuses or controllers hiding somewhere I don't know about? . . .

Attached image shows the receptacles in the electrical connector at the headlamp switch. Nine terminals. Note the terminal with black wire is direct 12 volt power from the battery. If you have 12 volt power on that terminal, then you know the switch has failed. If no power on that black wire terminal then you will have to trace back to the battery and find the source of power interruption.

You can do an internet search and find a replacement headlamp switch. Be careful. Quality of these switches that you will find varies immensely along with price.

 

Thank you so much for this diagram. It is going to be extremely helpful for me.

 

Fuse #7 for the parking lamps/horn is still good? Do you still have dash illumination lighting?
If you find no power to the switch, there is a bundle of fusible links by the LF strut tower that can open. They have a soft rubber insulation and any one that 'stretches' when pulled on, has likely failed. The different color insulation denotes the Amperage rating.
I have also seen a couple of cases where an intermittent electrical surge has blown out all bulbs at night, so make sure that your bulb filaments are still good. The charging system voltage regulator needs a good ground.
If you were using high beams, it could have taken out the series low beam filaments as well.

 

Fuse #7 for the parking lamps/horn is still good? Do you still have dash illumination lighting?
If you find no power to the switch, there is a bundle of fusible links by the LF strut tower that can open. They have a soft rubber insulation and any one that 'stretches' when pulled on, has likely failed. The different color insulation denotes the Amperage rating.
I have also seen a couple of cases where an intermittent electrical surge has blown out all bulbs at night, so make sure that your bulb filaments are still good. The charging system voltage regulator needs a good ground.
If you were using high beams, it could have taken out the series low beam filaments as well.

Thanks a lot--- This is very helpful information and I am going to check those links. No dash lighting on the vehicle since i lost my headlights. It would be a burn to have to replace all my lights but at least it's a simple solution.
No tail lights either, but I do still have brake lights (and turn signals).

Gonna spend some time tomorrow on this.

Really appreciate your help!

 

You should relay your headlights besides less juice going through switch your headlights will be brighter.

 

All fixed--- when replacing the switch I managed to get the old switch to start working again, but there were still not running lights, so I completed the swap-- just a couple of screws and a little bit of prying on that plug and we're back to after-dark operation.

Thanks to everyone for their help!