[Ksizem1]

Factry splice or not I would say that that splice has issues. Along with what looks like a brown wire next to it. There are 5 wires in that splice which agrees with the wire diagram. I believe what allenc is saying is that if you separate the spliced wires one should certainly have 12v on it. That should be the wire from fuse 13 provided fuse 13 is good & the output connection wire is good to the splice. Since you are already there it seems that verifying that the wires out to the relays/OBD pin 16 are good & then resplice those 5 wires.

I’ve seen weirder things. Chased a open wire once that had just been reterminated at a switch. The wire looked good at the termination but upon further inspection, the strippers used had only removed the outer wire cover & not the mylar/kapton inner coating which has a coppery color. The wire itself was actually silver coated copper & the tech that crimped the terminal did not realize that.
What a headache. I hope my 05 P GT doesn’t develop this kind of issue & I hope this is a fix.

Tested all 4 wires got little to nothing.

 

[AllanC]

. . . Okay I will clean up those wires and get a new connector tomorrow. Should I just get some wire trim that back and splice a new connection on the end of that positive because it's really in bad shape. I did test the positive wire about half in past the battery and was getting a strong current but I do agree this needs to be cha get regardless. It's a buddies car I'm trying to fix for him. . . . .

There are 2 substantial diameter wires at the positive battery post. A 4 gauge that goes to the starter solenoid and the 6 gauge that goes to the PDC. The PDC wire is the one that seems to be compromised. A replacement clamp similar to the after market clamp that exists now will eventually cause the same issue in the future. But since you are helping a friend maybe a short term fix is the best for all???

I would cut back the 6 gauge PDC wire until clean, shiny copper strands are present. If insufficient wire length remains, splice in and SOLDER a new length of wire and then SOLDER a closed eyelet on the end of that wire. With the starter cable clamped in the new aftermarket terminal, attach the new eyelet under one of the clamp bolts.

For those interested this Y T video shows the proper and longer term solution for installation of battery cable post clamps.

 

[Ksizem1]

There are 2 substantial diameter wires at the positive battery post. A 4 gauge that goes to the starter solenoid and the 6 gauge that goes to the PDC. The PDC wire is the one that seems to be compromised. A replacement clamp similar to the after market clamp that exists now will eventually cause the same issue in the future. But since you are helping a friend maybe a short term fix is the best for all???

I would cut back the 6 gauge PDC wire until clean, shiny copper strands are present. If insufficient wire length remains, splice in and SOLDER a new length of wire and then SOLDER a closed eyelet on the end of that wire. With the starter cable clamped in the new aftermarket terminal, attach the new eyelet under one of the clamp bolts.

View attachment 85929

For those interested this Y T video shows the proper and longer term solution for installation of battery cable post clamps.

Just want to add I tested the terminal leading

There are 2 substantial diameter wires at the positive battery post. A 4 gauge that goes to the starter solenoid and the 6 gauge that goes to the PDC. The PDC wire is the one that seems to be compromised. A replacement clamp similar to the after market clamp that exists now will eventually cause the same issue in the future. But since you are helping a friend maybe a short term fix is the best for all???

I would cut back the 6 gauge PDC wire until clean, shiny copper strands are present. If insufficient wire length remains, splice in and SOLDER a new length of wire and then SOLDER a closed eyelet on the end of that wire. With the starter cable clamped in the new aftermarket terminal, attach the new eyelet under one of the clamp bolts.

View attachment 85929

For those interested this Y T video shows the proper and longer term solution for installation of battery cable post clamps.

I will say I tested the terminal on pdc connected directly to the battery it reads 12V

 

[drphlbrt]

Just tossing this out there. Try testing with a test light or some type of load. A 12v bulb will show a poor connection or high resistance connection much better than a meter, especially a digital meter. Or you can try reading voltage drop across connections to get the same thing. 1 strand of a wire will show voltage but will only dimly light a test light usually. I am with AllenC in that it appears to be a amp draw problem that pulls the voltage down across a connection someplace.

 

[AllanC]

. . .I will say I tested the terminal on pdc connected directly to the battery it reads 12V . . .

A poor electrical connection with excessive resistance will show 12 volts when measuring voltage. The best test is to place a load of 1 - 3 amps on the circuit to determine if it will support electrical curent flow.

In post #34 & post #35 you indicate voltage of 0.5 & 0.9 respectively. What is location of these voltage measurements? Splice 129? Fuse #13 output circuit?

Something is not making sense to me. You have 12 volts at the PDC input but yet only a miniscule voltage somewhere in the PDC on a fused output circuit.

 

[Ksizem1]

Just tossing this out there. Try testing with a test light or some type of load. A 12v bulb will show a poor connection or high resistance connection much better than a meter, especially a digital meter. Or you can try reading voltage drop across connections to get the same thing. 1 strand of a wire will show voltage but will only dimly light a test light usually. I am with AllenC in that it appears to be a amp draw problem that pulls the voltage down across a connection someplace.

Thanks I will get a test light in the morning.

 

[Ksizem1]

A poor electrical connection with excessive resistance will show 12 volts when measuring voltage. The best test is to place a load of 1 - 3 amps on the circuit to determine if it will support electrical curent flow.

In post #34 & post #35 you indicate voltage of 0.5 & 0.9 respectively. What is location of these voltage measurements? Splice 129? Fuse #13 output circuit?

Something is not making sense to me. You have 12 volts at the PDC input but yet only a miniscule voltage somewhere in the PDC on a fused output circuit.

No I was testing the wrong port on that one. But like I said I'm getting 12 volts from the battery into the main housing but I tested all 4 wires from splice 129 they didn't receive any voltage with ignition on.

 

[AllanC]

, , , ,No I was testing the wrong port on that one. But like I said I'm getting 12 volts from the battery into the main housing but I tested all 4 wires from splice 129 they didn't receive any voltage with ignition on. . . . .

You do not necessarily need to get a test light at this point in time. You need to be careful when selecting a test light. Typically a lower priced test light device will use an incandescent bulb which can draw 1 - 2 amps. That can place sufficient electrical load on a circuit and thus you can tell by its brightness if there is excessive resistance in a circuit.

But you do NOT want to use a test light with incandescent bulb when checking an electronic module circuit. Many circuits are designed to only carry milliamps of current and a 1 - 2 amp load can damage the module permanently. So be careful in what test lamp you purchase and how you use it.

You can place a load on the power feed circuit between the battery positive post and the power feed input terminal at the PDC. Turn on the headlamps to high beam. Take 1 probe of the multimeter (set to measure voltage) and place it on the top of the positive terminal post (not the clamp). Make sure top of battery post is clean. Take other meter probe and place on the input power feed stud at the PDC that secures the power feed cable. You should have less that 0.1 V drop on the meter. Any more than that and there is excessive voltage drop at that aftermarket battery cable clamp.

 

[Ksizem1]

You do not necessarily need to get a test light at this point in time. You need to be careful when selecting a test light. Typically a lower priced test light device will use an incandescent bulb which can draw 1 - 2 amps. That can place sufficient electrical load on a circuit and thus you can tell by its brightness if there is excessive resistance in a circuit.

But you do NOT want to use a test light with incandescent bulb when checking an electronic module circuit. Many circuits are designed to only carry milliamps of current and a 1 - 2 amp load can damage the module permanently. So be careful in what test lamp you purchase and how you use it.

You can place a load on the power feed circuit between the battery positive post and the power feed input terminal at the PDC. Turn on the headlamps to high beam. Take 1 probe of the multimeter (set to measure voltage) and place it on the top of the positive terminal post (not the clamp). Make sure top of battery post is clean. Take other meter probe and place on the input power feed stud at the PDC that secures the power feed cable. You should have less that 0.1 V drop on the meter. Any more than that and there is excessive voltage drop at that aftermarket battery cable clamp.

Well I will get wire and a new terminal connection in the morning strip back that wiring on the positive and see where we go from there. Anything else I should pick up while I'm in town because it's not right down the street for me. Plz and thnx.

 

[drphlbrt]

One check you can do is pull fuse 13 & reattach the pos cable. Then read volts from the center of the top of batt pos post to batt grd post & then read from the fuse 13 input side to batt grd post. Should be little if any diff In volts. If there is then that is a poor connection between pos batt & the PDC fuse 13 input side like AllenC said. I think that is the right track. Don’t forget that brown wire. It needs spliced back together.

I have to correct myself. 6wires at that splice 129. From your last pic it looks like the 2 wires still in the splice must go to PCM & OBD. You can do a continuity check of those, unplug C1 @ PCM & check between splice & pin 29. Then between splice & OBD pin 16. The 3wires going north in the pic look to go the ASD & fuel pump relays respectively. The 4th wire to fuse 13. At least from the pics & the PDC lid.

You can make a test lite from a bulb & wire in a pinch. 😉

Good luck! & if you have any fixes for why revs would hang when shifting let me know!

 

[drphlbrt]

And Allenc is correct. When using a bulb test light unplug the PCM.

 

[Ksizem1]

Pt is running problem solved. Splice 129 had no power redid splice spliced other damaged wires under PDC as well put a new fuse is #13 and she is good to go!!!! THANK YOU TO THE MEN WHO HELPED ME!!!! IF YOUR EVER IN MAYFIELD KY NEXT ROUND IS ON ME!!!!

THANKS AGAIN
KEITH

 

[Ksizem1]

Oh and approximately 5 inches of the + was corroded spliced new 6 guage put new terminal connector good to go!!!!

 

[Ksizem1]

Splice 129

 

[drphlbrt]

Sweet! Another PT saved from the crusher. You are very welcome & glad to help.
GO RAMS!

 

[AllanC]

. . . Pt is running problem solved. Splice 129 had no power redid splice spliced other damaged wires under PDC as well put a new fuse is #13 and she is good to go!!!! THANK YOU TO THE MEN WHO HELPED ME!!!! IF YOUR EVER IN MAYFIELD KY NEXT ROUND IS ON ME!!!! . . . .

Glad you got the problem solved and engine that will now run. Posting successful results helps everyone learn about diagnosis.

 

[06PTElectricBlue]

Pt is running problem solved. Splice 129 had no power redid splice spliced other damaged wires under PDC as well put a new fuse is #13 and she is good to go!!!! THANK YOU TO THE MEN WHO HELPED ME!!!! IF YOUR EVER IN MAYFIELD KY NEXT ROUND IS ON ME!!!!

THANKS AGAIN
KEITH

I think your friend who owns the PT owes you several rounds