[ImperialCrown]

I think those are software version and module numbers, not fault codes.
Find a scan tool that can read WCM codes. These are Body codes, not Powertrain
(OBD2) codes.
List of possible WCM codes:

• • B1A2A-KEY 1 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A2B-KEY 2 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A2C-KEY 3 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A2D-KEY 4 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A2E-KEY 5 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A2F-KEY 6 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A24-KEY NOT PROGRAMMED
  • B1A25-INVALID KEY
  • B1A26-MAXIMUM NUMBER OF KEYS PROGRAMMED
  • B1A27-SKREEM PROGRAMMING PERFORMANCE
  • B1A28-ECM MISMATCH WITH SKIM
  • B1A29-SKIM BASESTATION MISMATCH
  • B1A30-KEY 7 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A31-KEY 8 COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B1A35-UNIDENTIFIED KEY COMMUNICATION ERROR
  • B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
  • B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
  • B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
  • B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
  • B2101-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT LOW
  • B2102-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT HIGH
  • B2204-ECU CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
  • B2205-ORIGINAL VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
  • B2224-SKREEM INTERNAL
  • B2228-SKREEM INTERNAL-RKE RECEIVER
  • B2229-SKREEM INTERNAL-SKIM IMMOBILIZER
  • U0019-CAN B BUS

 

[Ksizem1]

I didn't get any codes like that. I was doing some reading and I read that a problem people have is with the WCM could this be the culprit?

 

[Ksizem1]

Is there 12v on both sides of the fuel pump fuse?
If the red dot is on in the instrument cluster, it may not start. There should be a fault code stored in the WCM (wireless control module) to explain why the warning light is on. It may not be an OBD2 code and would require a capable scan tool to read.
It sounds like a branch of the electrical system is possibly dead? Flip the PDC over and look for corrosion or broken wires?

What pins should I be getting power from with key on for fuel pump?

 

[Ksizem1]

I read this does anyone know how to do what he is talking about and can you explain to me how to do it please.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay.

Should light both sides as the key is turned on for a second and then go out.

Fuel pump relay. Jump #30 to #87 and you should hear the pump run in the back.

 

[Ksizem1]

Sorry it didn't post my pic this is what I read

 

[Ksizem1]

I read a thread of someone who has the same problems as me down to the t. Even no power to obd and it was an open circuit from ignition to pcm anyone know how I test this. I have a multimeter.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I think he means C3 (3rd from the left), there is no C8 on the PCM.
Pin #38 is the Tn wire from the starter relay. Grounding this wire should crank the engine.

 

[AllanC]

. . . . I read a thread of someone who has the same problems as me down to the t. Even no power to obd and it was an open circuit from ignition to pcm anyone know how I test this. I have a multimeter. . . .

I do not mean to offend anyone who has offered solutions and diagrams for remediation. But you need to determine if there is 12 volt power going through fuse #13 in the PDC and through the splice 129 and onto pin #16 at the diagnostic link connector. If there is no power going through that splice 129. no power to control side of ASD relay, no power to load side of fuel pump relay, and no constant power to volatile memory in PCM and no constant power to diagnostic link connector.

 

[Ksizem1]

I do not mean to offend anyone who has offered solutions and diagrams for remediation. But you need to determine if there is 12 volt power going through fuse #13 in the PDC and through the splice 129 and onto pin #16 at the diagnostic link connector. If there is no power going through that splice 129. no power to control side of ASD relay, no power to load side of fuel pump relay, and no constant power to volatile memory in PCM and no constant power to diagnostic link connector.

I appreciate the response. I am trying to locate

I do not mean to offend anyone who has offered solutions and diagrams for remediation. But you need to determine if there is 12 volt power going through fuse #13 in the PDC and through the splice 129 and onto pin #16 at the diagnostic link connector. If there is no power going through that splice 129. no power to control side of ASD relay, no power to load side of fuel pump relay, and no constant power to volatile memory in PCM and no constant power to diagnostic link connector.

12 coming out of 13
.9 v out of diagnostic link
Any tips on finding splice 129?

Trying to find the splice any tips

I do not mean to offend anyone who has offered solutions and diagrams for remediation. But you need to determine if there is 12 volt power going through fuse #13 in the PDC and through the splice 129 and onto pin #16 at the diagnostic link connector. If there is no power going through that splice 129. no power to control side of ASD relay, no power to load side of fuel pump relay, and no constant power to volatile memory in PCM and no constant power to diagnostic link connector.

Fuse 13 is testing at 11.96
.9 v coming from pin 16

Trying to locate splice 129 any tips

I do not mean to offend anyone who has offered solutions and diagrams for remediation. But you need to determine if there is 12 volt power going through fuse #13 in the PDC and through the splice 129 and onto pin #16 at the diagnostic link connector. If there is no power going through that splice 129. no power to control side of ASD relay, no power to load side of fuel pump relay, and no constant power to volatile memory in PCM and no constant power to diagnostic link connector.

12 coming from 13
.9 coming from pin 16
Any advice on finding splice 129?

 

[AllanC]

. . . . Trying to locate splice 129 any tips
12 coming from 13
.9 coming from pin 16
Any advice on finding splice 129? . . . .

You will have to remove the PDC unit as a whole and then separate the top and bottom portions to gain access to the wiring. This link shows a Y T video and how to remove the PDC. This particular vehicle is a 2009 model with TIPM integrated into the PDC. Your vehilce does NOT have a TIPM but removal should be the same. Note that the battery cable is disconnected from the battery post before starting this procedure.

Once the bottom portion is separated from the housing you will see numerous electrical connector attachments. Using the diagram that contributor ImperialCrown presented in post #25, look for a RD / WT wire (red with white stripe) that plugs into the connector directly under the fuel pump relay and ASD relay. Trace the RD / WT wire from there and you should find the splice.

 

[Ksizem1]

Checked 129 at the splice. .9v

 

[AllanC]

. . . . Checked 129 at the splice. .9v . . .

See attached image. Open the wire splice with the RD / WT wires. At least one should have battery voltage. This splice connnection looks like it has glue that is attepting to seal the joint connection from corrosion. I wonder if glue has melted and is now forming an electrical insulator between the individual RD / WT wires?

Also check the mating socket at the fuse box where the blade of fuse #13 attaches. That must be secure and tigjht fitting.

 

[Ksizem1]

See attached image. Open the wire splice with the RD / WT wires. At least one should have battery voltage. This splice connnection looks like it has glue that is attepting to seal the joint connection from corrosion. I wonder if glue has melted and is now forming an electrical insulator between the individual RD / WT wires?

Also check the mating socket at the fuse box where the blade of fuse #13 attaches. That must be secure and tigjht fitting.

View attachment 85920

.5 V coming out of female

Checked 129 at the splice. .9v

Sorry my mistake those were the red wite to the relay. Unless it's the same splice

 

[Ksizem1]

See attached image. Open the wire splice with the RD / WT wires. At least one should have battery voltage. This splice connnection looks like it has glue that is attepting to seal the joint connection from corrosion. I wonder if glue has melted and is now forming an electrical insulator between the individual RD / WT wires?

Also check the mating socket at the fuse box where the blade of fuse #13 attaches. That must be secure and tigjht fitting.

View attachment 85920

There is .9 V coming out

See attached image. Open the wire splice with the RD / WT wires. At least one should have battery voltage. This splice connnection looks like it has glue that is attepting to seal the joint connection from corrosion. I wonder if glue has melted and is now forming an electrical insulator between the individual RD / WT wires?

Also check the mating socket at the fuse box where the blade of fuse #13 attaches. That must be secure and tigjht fitting.

View attachment 85920
[/QUOTE

Asd relay
Fuel pump relay
Fp/asd fuse
All on same splice all have .9v out of female

 

[Ksizem1]

I think he means C3 (3rd from the left), there is no C8 on the PCM.
Pin #38 is the Tn wire from the starter relay. Grounding this wire should crank the engine.

View attachment 85912

Oh okay not sure doing this would make a difference cuz I can get the starter to turn over when I jump the relay the problem in no power to fuel pump to start vehicle. Idk if that's correct or not.

 

[Ksizem1]

Fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay.

View attachment 85907

Should light both sides as the key is turned on for a second and then go out.

View attachment 85909

Fuel pump relay. Jump #30 to #87 and you should hear the pump run in the back.
View attachment 85910

This does nothing

 

[drphlbrt]

Factry splice or not I would say that that splice has issues. Along with what looks like a brown wire next to it. There are 5 wires in that splice which agrees with the wire diagram. I believe what allenc is saying is that if you separate the spliced wires one should certainly have 12v on it. That should be the wire from fuse 13 provided fuse 13 is good & the output connection wire is good to the splice. Since you are already there it seems that verifying that the wires out to the relays/OBD pin 16 are good & then resplice those 5 wires.

I’ve seen weirder things. Chased a open wire once that had just been reterminated at a switch. The wire looked good at the termination but upon further inspection, the strippers used had only removed the outer wire cover & not the mylar/kapton inner coating which has a coppery color. The wire itself was actually silver coated copper & the tech that crimped the terminal did not realize that.
What a headache. I hope my 05 P GT doesn’t develop this kind of issue & I hope this is a fix.

 

[AllanC]

. . . .5 V coming out of female . . .

If you are getting 0.5 V at the female receptacle of fuse #13 then that is not good. There is a 6 gauge wire that carries electrical current from the positive battery post to the PDC. From images you have posted this 6 gauge wire at the battery post clamp is suspect.

The original battery clamp has been replaced with an after market type clamp. This type of clamp leaves exposed wires and invites corrosion over time. Remove the clamp and clean all the indiividual wire strands and either clean mating surfaces or install a replacement clamp. Once this has been done repeat voltage measurements at fuse #13. Voltage should be around 12 volts.

. . . Oh okay not sure doing this would make a difference cuz I can get the starter to turn over when I jump the relay the problem in no power to fuel pump to start vehicle. Idk if that's correct or not. . . .

You are using a jumper wire on the LOAD side contacts of the starter relay. This circuit is independent of the circuit in question powered by fuse #13. That is why the starter spins the engine with a jump wire.

The control side of the starter relay needs 2 items present to activate the relay coil and cause the LOAD side contacts to close. Proper voltage power through the ignition key switch when turned to the START position. Simultaneously the PCM must provide ground to the starter relay coil. Constant (not switched) battery power probably must be present at the PCM for it to cause the ground to become activated for the starter relay. Constant PCM battery power or low voltage power through fuse #13 is missing so the PCM will not ground the starter relay. No starter activation is the result.

. . . .

Again this is same result because of no constant battery power to the PCM. PCM will momentarily ground the fuel pump relay for 1 - 2 seconds when ignition key switch turned to ON / RUN position. Since no constant battery power or low volage power to the PCM as in the starter relay description above, PCM will not activate fuel pump relay.

 

[Ksizem1]

If you are getting 0.5 V at the female receptacle of fuse #13 then that is not good. There is a 6 gauge wire that carries electrical current from the positive battery post to the PDC. From images you have posted this 6 gauge wire at the battery post clamp is suspect.

The original battery clamp has been replaced with an after market type clamp. This type of clamp leaves exposed wires and invites corrosion over time. Remove the clamp and clean all the indiividual wire strands and either clean mating surfaces or install a replacement clamp. Once this has been done repeat voltage measurements at fuse #13. Voltage should be around 12 volts.

View attachment 85924



You are using a jumper wire on the LOAD side contacts of the starter relay. This circuit is independent of the circuit in question powered by fuse #13. That is why the starter spins the engine with a jump wire.

The control side of the starter relay needs 2 items present to activate the relay coil and cause the LOAD side contacts to close. Proper voltage power through the ignition key switch when turned to the START position. Simultaneously the PCM must provide ground to the starter relay coil. Constant (not switched) battery power probably must be present at the PCM for it to cause the ground to become activated for the starter relay. Constant PCM battery power or low voltage power through fuse #13 is missing so the PCM will not ground the starter relay. No starter activation is the result.



Again this is same result because of no constant battery power to the PCM. PCM will momentarily ground the fuel pump relay for 1 - 2 seconds when ignition key switch turned to ON / RUN position. Since no constant battery power or low volage power to the PCM as in the starter relay description above, PCM will not activate fuel pump relay.

Okay I will clean up those wires and get a new connector tomorrow. Should I just get some wire trim that back and splice a new connection on the end of that positive because it's really in bad shape. I did test the positive wire about half in past the battery and was getting a strong current but I do agree this needs to be cha get regardless. It's a buddies car I'm trying to fix for him. What did I get myself into 😄 🤣