Fuel filter should be changed every 50K miles, so....

Check fault codes, also. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html

 

Fuel filter should be changed every 50K miles, so....

Check fault codes, also. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html

Thanks, Bob. However, I do not have a scanner, but can still follow the flashes. More later after I change out the filter.

 

If you haven't ever changed the fuel filter, then I'm guessing you've never cleaned the throttle body either. Get a can of spray throttle body cleaner and use it as directed.

 

This vehicle has the 2.5L 4 cylinder with TBI (single throttle body injector). It is possible that the single injector needs to be replaced. Unfortunately the injector costs over $100 so it is not inexpensive to do a trial and error replacement.

 

Thanks for your replies. Fortunately, that injector is priced MUCH lower than $100. It just might need to be changed.

 

Could be, but doubtful. I've never known one to go bad. My last car had the original one at 308K miles, ran like new, was never cleaned.

 

The typical injector failure will make it run rich and you may see large drops falling onto the throttle blade as it idles. The throttle position sensor can also fail without leaving behind a code. A leaky EGR (if equipped), can also make for a rough idle quality.

 

I hear the oxygen sensor can also cause the engine to run rough. What do you think?

 

Does this seem to happen warm or cold or does it make no difference? If the idle fluctuation and stall happened within the first minute or two after a cold start, the O2 sensor would not be active yet.

 

Before you go shotgunning parts, run the codes on it like Bob suggested. If you've got a bad EGR, or O2 sensor, it's possible they'll show up in the trouble codes. Check you codes and post back what you find.