Chrysler 300M cars: big, luxury-tinged sporty sedans
The second-generation Eagle Vision became the Chrysler 300M almost at the last moment; there are photos of 300Ms with Eagle trim and badging, but when Eagle was cut, there was a quick readjustment.
The use of the name 300M offended some more loyal fans and would confuse shoppers for years, especially when dodge-aerohttps://www.allpar.com/the 300 and 300C were brought out, but the links to the past - and the controversy - brought the 300M to pages of many glossy car magazines. Once past the comments of "this isn't a real 300 letter-car," reviewers were generally pleased, and some called the 300M the best big front-wheel drive car every made - all things considered. The 250 horsepower engine pushed the big car with alacrity, but it was fine with sharp turns, too.
https://www.allpar.com/
The original 300 letter cars were unique, low-production items, doing battle with the best of the rest, cornering better than many smaller sports cars, with a fearsome engine (a Hemi in early years), unique interior, and a price to match; the 300 letter-cars were always a limited edition, not a mass market car, and, with the Imperial, they were the absolute best Chrysler could sell.
The 300M was given the LHS' elegant instrument panel, along with a similar interior, devoid of some minor Concorde niceties. The 300M had been shortened for sale in Europe, where the LH was too large; the shorter length also resulted in lower weight, for better acceleration, accentuated by more aggressive gearing. That brought 0-60 times down to about 7.5 seconds, better than some of the original 300 letter cars (to be fair, the originals also had better torque for instant-on acceleration). The ride was also firmer than the other LH cars, a tradeoff for superior handling - better than many cars with active suspensions.
The LHS was another Concorde derivative, this time longer than the standard LH; the LHS and 300M shared the same dashboards and interior looks, though. The LHS, geared for comfort and economy, achieved better mileage than the 300M despite its greater size, was quieter inside, and rode more smoothly; but it got little publicity and did not sell well. Both came with an impressively faked woodgrain trim; a wood steering wheel came in 2001 (pictured above is a 2000 car), and the 300M Special replaced the woodgrain with fake carbon fiber.
The Chrysler 300M was benchmarked against the BMW 5-series, Audi A6, and other high-end cars. Based on the same platform as the $20,000 Intrepid and Concorde, the $30,000 300M was faster, firmer-riding, and better-handling. It still failed the Eurotest in some ways (no turbo option, no diesel option, no five-speed), but when it came out, most reviewers considered the comparison to be fair.
Only one engine was available, the 3.5 liter V6 exclusive to the top of the LH series for many years; it was connected to a four-speed automatic transmission with AutoStick, a manual-override shifter. A 300M Special model included a slightly more powerful engine and high-intensity discharge headlamps.
Praised for the 300M's upscale interior quickly went to slams for its cheap-looking interior, as the press fleet went from standard 300Ms to the 300M Limited, which had stiffer springs, high-intensity discharge headlights, and clearly fake carbon-fiber trim replacing the more realistic fake wood trim. Another factor was the wolf-pack journalism converging on Chrysler, as Daimler announced that the company was losing money and producing shoddy vehicles, as an excuse for extensive cost-cutting.
Chrysler 300M handling
Project team member Burke Brown talked about the launch:
The 1999 300M and LHS both included the
3.5-liter V-6 engine, rated at 253 horsepower (188 kW), and 255 lb.-ft. (345 N•m) torque. Standard items included
17-inch cast-aluminum wheels with chrome, dual front airbags,
Sentry Key® theft-deterrent system, automatic headlights, Indiglo gauge backlighting, leather, cassette/four-CD stereo, traction control, antilock brakes, trip computer (EVIC), and the analog center clock that would become de rigeur for Chrysler cars. The Handling Group took off the top speed limiter.
In 2000, an interlock prevented shifting from Park unless the brake was pressed; and anchors were added to the rear shelf for child seats. The 300M and LHS gained new colors, updated gauge vacuum-fluorescent display shapes, a four-disc CD changer (in the cab) with Infinity II stereos (early models had bounce issues with CDs), cupholders in the rear center armrest, chrome window and lock switch rockers, and color-keyed mirror switches; the rear suspension was modified to cut noise, vibration, and harshness (in spring 1999), and the gas cap was changed. The 3.5 V6 was LEV compliant in California-like regions.
The year 2001 brought an optional luxury group with an automatic dimming driver-side mirror; slight cosmetic changes; and supplemental side airbags. A more advanced EVIC (trip computer) was optional. Child seat anchors were now integrated into the seats, as well. Chris Carpenter wrote that there were also Daimler-inspired cost cutting changes:
In 2002, electronic brake distribution was added; a new computer combined engine and transmission controls; and "natural" evaporative emission monitoring was added.
Midyear, the 300M Special was introduced with a 255 horsepower 3.5 liter engine (running on premium gas) with 258 lb-ft of torque, and a 3.89 final drive ratio. The 300M Special also had high intensity dischrage headlights and cheap-looking fake carbon fiber trim, higher performance brakes, and optional Michelin Pilot Sport 255/35R18 performance tires. Power output from the standard 3.5 was dropped slightly, but this may have been a "marketing change" to make the 300M Special seem more "special."
In 2003, new colors were added, a six-disc CD changer replaced the four-disc changer, and the changer controls were added to the stereo. 2004 brought optional Sirius Satellite Radio and an optional stereo with DVD-based GPC navigation.
All 300Ms had traction control and ABS, optional front side airbags, a rear defroster, body color door handles, fog lamps, solar control glass, automatic headlamps (2000 and later), dual power folding heated mirrors (auto-dimming and auto-down-tilting-on-reverse on Special), speed-sensitive variable-delay wipers, automatic temperature control, dual-density carpets, soft touch door panels, sun visors with illuminated mirrors and sliding extensions, a tachometer, trip computer, garage door opener, heated front seats with two-person memory for the driver's seat, radio, and mirrors; eight-way power driver and four-way power passenger bucket seats; antenna built into the rear window; cruise; tilt wheel; power remote trunk lid release; and power locks and windows with remote and alarm.
The suspension was a four-wheel independent design with power rack and pinion steering, front MacPherson struts with integral gas-charged shocks and coil springs, single transverse lower links, tension struts, and a link-type stabilizer bar; and rear Chapman struts with integral gas-charged shocks, dual transverse lower links, lower trailing links, and a link-type stabilizer bar with concentric coil springs.
Base tires were P225/55R17 Michelin Pilot MXV4 Plus black sidewall all-season radials, with the same-size Pilot HX MXM4 for the Performance Group and 245/45R18 Pilot Sport in Ultimate Performance Tire and Wheel Group. Six and ten spoke wheels were optional or used in various option groups. The engine was longitudinal, with front wheel drive. All 300Ms were made in Brampton, Ontario, Canada, and were classified by the EPA as large cars.
The Chrysler 300M Special and the Performance Handling Group included stiffer front calipers, outboard-vented rotors, and high-performance linings at all four wheels.
Chrysler 300M repairs
When your 300M gets past 70,000 miles, it might be a good idea to start looking at batteries. The battery is hard to reach, and problems with corrosion and battery acid leaking onto connectors appear to be common starting around this mileage. Dealer prices for battery/cable replacement appear to be around $250 - $360.
Keep the trunk area (around the hinges/shock absorbers on top) clear of leaves to avoid rust. So far no rust problems have been reported to us, only the potential.
The ignition key tends to stick for some people. If you can't turn the key, try hitting the ignition lock moderately gently a dozen or two dozen times until the small bit of dust inside gets knocked loose. (As always we can't be responsible for your results!) - blowing compressed air in may be safer but we haven't tried that (the knocking trick comes from the dealer.) This isn't cause for panic - it seems to happen rarely but the fix does eventually work.
The seat-warmer switches tend to fail after six or seven years. Taking them out is very easy - with the ignition key NOT in the car, you can push them out from underneath, or you can gently pull/pry them out from above. Removing the connector cable is usually easy. You can try taking them apart and cleaning the contacts, or just order one from a dealer. List is $42 (as of January 2008) but we got ours from Pomoco for a grand total of $30 including shipping, because cleaning the contacts - one badly damaged, apparently by a coffee spill - didn't quite work. Here's what the old switch looked like when we broke it apart into its four components: shell, rocker, transparent contact-holder, and circuit-board. If you have different color seats, your outer shell will be a different color.
Some early CD players (1999-2000 models) skipped over bumps; replacing the CD changer fixes that.
On many 300Ms (and other 2000-04 LH cars) with automatic headlights, the interior lights flash, suddenly change brightness, or flicker. The solution is to pull the connector at the switch, clean the contacts if needed, apply dielectric grease, and re-assemble it. This is not the five minute job it sounds like, since the steering column shroud and instrument panel end cap have to come off along with a bunch of screws to allow the instrument panel cluster bezel to be gently pried out. All work must be done with the battery disconnected. Chrysler advises dealers not to replace the headlamp switch. (Thanks, ImperialCrown, for referring us to TSB 08-022-03).
The platinum spark plugs need to be replaced at around 80,000 miles. The plugs are right under the coils, on top of the engine; use a flat-bladed screwdriver to push up the lever on the electrical connectors, and gently slide the connectors apart. Then carefully use a good quality Torx screwdriver of perfect size to take out the two screws - they are attached very firmly and are easy to strip. Push down hard while breaking them free. Once the first quarter turn is done, they should unscrew easily, but they don't come all the way out. When both screws are unthreaded, gently pull out the coil, which is held in now by the airtight seal. Then the spark plug can be taken out with a standard 5/8 inch spark plug socket, replaced with new ones (with a dab of antiseize on the threads), and tightened to specifications using a torque wrench (aluminum heads!). The hardest part is getting those coil screws removed without damaging them.
To replace the tie rod bushings for the 1992-2003 Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS, and New Yorker, or Eagle Vision, you can use a CarQuest inner tie rod end repair kit, which uses a two piece bushing to eliminate special tool sand lubricate; these bushings snap into place (and the kit includes a bolt lock plate). The kit is part number K7349. (Thanks, John Kaderka.)
We have "the ultimate LH steering fix" for sloppy steering (usually diagnosed as a bad steering rack).
Power lock actuators are a weak point after around eight years. They are part of the door lock assembly, and hard to replace for the amateur (the dealer may be worthwhile). First, disconnect the battery (locks are always energized); then remove the door trim panel, by removing the trim plug from the door-pull area and the remote bezel; removing the screws thereby shown, and the three on the bottom of the trim panel. (Oh, isn't it wonderful to have screws instead of clips?)
Then use a trim tool (or a similar tool - something flat, firm, and unlikely to damage the paint or trim panel) to disengage the rest of the retaining clips, (in our case, two at the rear and one at the front of the panel.) Flip the trim panel up, and hold it securely.
Now remove the speaker wire, the power window switch wire connector, the courtesy lamp wire, and the wiring harness clips. Disconnect and remove the old part; put the new one in. Then reconnect the wires and remote handle linkage, and put on the water shield, making sure the locator holes align; reseal the shield (you may need to get more sealant.) Put the trim panel in place in the retainer on the top of the door, insert the four-way alignment guide, and the rearward two-way alignment guide; put in new retaining clips; and put the three screws on the bottom back in (they take just 15-20 inch-pounds of torque, which isn't much). Put the other two screws back in (same torque spec) and reinstall the trim plugs.
Chris Carpenter wrote:
For full specs on the engine, see our 3.5 liter V6 engine page.
The use of the name 300M offended some more loyal fans and would confuse shoppers for years, especially when dodge-aerohttps://www.allpar.com/the 300 and 300C were brought out, but the links to the past - and the controversy - brought the 300M to pages of many glossy car magazines. Once past the comments of "this isn't a real 300 letter-car," reviewers were generally pleased, and some called the 300M the best big front-wheel drive car every made - all things considered. The 250 horsepower engine pushed the big car with alacrity, but it was fine with sharp turns, too.
The original 300 letter cars were unique, low-production items, doing battle with the best of the rest, cornering better than many smaller sports cars, with a fearsome engine (a Hemi in early years), unique interior, and a price to match; the 300 letter-cars were always a limited edition, not a mass market car, and, with the Imperial, they were the absolute best Chrysler could sell.
The LHS was another Concorde derivative, this time longer than the standard LH; the LHS and 300M shared the same dashboards and interior looks, though. The LHS, geared for comfort and economy, achieved better mileage than the 300M despite its greater size, was quieter inside, and rode more smoothly; but it got little publicity and did not sell well. Both came with an impressively faked woodgrain trim; a wood steering wheel came in 2001 (pictured above is a 2000 car), and the 300M Special replaced the woodgrain with fake carbon fiber.
Only one engine was available, the 3.5 liter V6 exclusive to the top of the LH series for many years; it was connected to a four-speed automatic transmission with AutoStick, a manual-override shifter. A 300M Special model included a slightly more powerful engine and high-intensity discharge headlamps.
Praised for the 300M's upscale interior quickly went to slams for its cheap-looking interior, as the press fleet went from standard 300Ms to the 300M Limited, which had stiffer springs, high-intensity discharge headlights, and clearly fake carbon-fiber trim replacing the more realistic fake wood trim. Another factor was the wolf-pack journalism converging on Chrysler, as Daimler announced that the company was losing money and producing shoddy vehicles, as an excuse for extensive cost-cutting.
Chrysler 300M handling
Project team member Burke Brown talked about the launch:
Chrysler 300M changes, year to year
The 1999 300M and LHS both included the
3.5-liter V-6 engine, rated at 253 horsepower (188 kW), and 255 lb.-ft. (345 N•m) torque. Standard items included
17-inch cast-aluminum wheels with chrome, dual front airbags,
Sentry Key® theft-deterrent system, automatic headlights, Indiglo gauge backlighting, leather, cassette/four-CD stereo, traction control, antilock brakes, trip computer (EVIC), and the analog center clock that would become de rigeur for Chrysler cars. The Handling Group took off the top speed limiter.
In 2000, an interlock prevented shifting from Park unless the brake was pressed; and anchors were added to the rear shelf for child seats. The 300M and LHS gained new colors, updated gauge vacuum-fluorescent display shapes, a four-disc CD changer (in the cab) with Infinity II stereos (early models had bounce issues with CDs), cupholders in the rear center armrest, chrome window and lock switch rockers, and color-keyed mirror switches; the rear suspension was modified to cut noise, vibration, and harshness (in spring 1999), and the gas cap was changed. The 3.5 V6 was LEV compliant in California-like regions.
The year 2001 brought an optional luxury group with an automatic dimming driver-side mirror; slight cosmetic changes; and supplemental side airbags. A more advanced EVIC (trip computer) was optional. Child seat anchors were now integrated into the seats, as well. Chris Carpenter wrote that there were also Daimler-inspired cost cutting changes:
In 2002, electronic brake distribution was added; a new computer combined engine and transmission controls; and "natural" evaporative emission monitoring was added.
Midyear, the 300M Special was introduced with a 255 horsepower 3.5 liter engine (running on premium gas) with 258 lb-ft of torque, and a 3.89 final drive ratio. The 300M Special also had high intensity dischrage headlights and cheap-looking fake carbon fiber trim, higher performance brakes, and optional Michelin Pilot Sport 255/35R18 performance tires. Power output from the standard 3.5 was dropped slightly, but this may have been a "marketing change" to make the 300M Special seem more "special."
In 2003, new colors were added, a six-disc CD changer replaced the four-disc changer, and the changer controls were added to the stereo. 2004 brought optional Sirius Satellite Radio and an optional stereo with DVD-based GPC navigation.
All 300Ms had traction control and ABS, optional front side airbags, a rear defroster, body color door handles, fog lamps, solar control glass, automatic headlamps (2000 and later), dual power folding heated mirrors (auto-dimming and auto-down-tilting-on-reverse on Special), speed-sensitive variable-delay wipers, automatic temperature control, dual-density carpets, soft touch door panels, sun visors with illuminated mirrors and sliding extensions, a tachometer, trip computer, garage door opener, heated front seats with two-person memory for the driver's seat, radio, and mirrors; eight-way power driver and four-way power passenger bucket seats; antenna built into the rear window; cruise; tilt wheel; power remote trunk lid release; and power locks and windows with remote and alarm.
The suspension was a four-wheel independent design with power rack and pinion steering, front MacPherson struts with integral gas-charged shocks and coil springs, single transverse lower links, tension struts, and a link-type stabilizer bar; and rear Chapman struts with integral gas-charged shocks, dual transverse lower links, lower trailing links, and a link-type stabilizer bar with concentric coil springs.
Base tires were P225/55R17 Michelin Pilot MXV4 Plus black sidewall all-season radials, with the same-size Pilot HX MXM4 for the Performance Group and 245/45R18 Pilot Sport in Ultimate Performance Tire and Wheel Group. Six and ten spoke wheels were optional or used in various option groups. The engine was longitudinal, with front wheel drive. All 300Ms were made in Brampton, Ontario, Canada, and were classified by the EPA as large cars.
The Chrysler 300M Special and the Performance Handling Group included stiffer front calipers, outboard-vented rotors, and high-performance linings at all four wheels.
Chrysler 300M repairs
Keep the trunk area (around the hinges/shock absorbers on top) clear of leaves to avoid rust. So far no rust problems have been reported to us, only the potential.
The ignition key tends to stick for some people. If you can't turn the key, try hitting the ignition lock moderately gently a dozen or two dozen times until the small bit of dust inside gets knocked loose. (As always we can't be responsible for your results!) - blowing compressed air in may be safer but we haven't tried that (the knocking trick comes from the dealer.) This isn't cause for panic - it seems to happen rarely but the fix does eventually work.
The seat-warmer switches tend to fail after six or seven years. Taking them out is very easy - with the ignition key NOT in the car, you can push them out from underneath, or you can gently pull/pry them out from above. Removing the connector cable is usually easy. You can try taking them apart and cleaning the contacts, or just order one from a dealer. List is $42 (as of January 2008) but we got ours from Pomoco for a grand total of $30 including shipping, because cleaning the contacts - one badly damaged, apparently by a coffee spill - didn't quite work. Here's what the old switch looked like when we broke it apart into its four components: shell, rocker, transparent contact-holder, and circuit-board. If you have different color seats, your outer shell will be a different color.
Some early CD players (1999-2000 models) skipped over bumps; replacing the CD changer fixes that.
On many 300Ms (and other 2000-04 LH cars) with automatic headlights, the interior lights flash, suddenly change brightness, or flicker. The solution is to pull the connector at the switch, clean the contacts if needed, apply dielectric grease, and re-assemble it. This is not the five minute job it sounds like, since the steering column shroud and instrument panel end cap have to come off along with a bunch of screws to allow the instrument panel cluster bezel to be gently pried out. All work must be done with the battery disconnected. Chrysler advises dealers not to replace the headlamp switch. (Thanks, ImperialCrown, for referring us to TSB 08-022-03).
The platinum spark plugs need to be replaced at around 80,000 miles. The plugs are right under the coils, on top of the engine; use a flat-bladed screwdriver to push up the lever on the electrical connectors, and gently slide the connectors apart. Then carefully use a good quality Torx screwdriver of perfect size to take out the two screws - they are attached very firmly and are easy to strip. Push down hard while breaking them free. Once the first quarter turn is done, they should unscrew easily, but they don't come all the way out. When both screws are unthreaded, gently pull out the coil, which is held in now by the airtight seal. Then the spark plug can be taken out with a standard 5/8 inch spark plug socket, replaced with new ones (with a dab of antiseize on the threads), and tightened to specifications using a torque wrench (aluminum heads!). The hardest part is getting those coil screws removed without damaging them.
To replace the tie rod bushings for the 1992-2003 Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler 300M, Concorde, LHS, and New Yorker, or Eagle Vision, you can use a CarQuest inner tie rod end repair kit, which uses a two piece bushing to eliminate special tool sand lubricate; these bushings snap into place (and the kit includes a bolt lock plate). The kit is part number K7349. (Thanks, John Kaderka.)
We have "the ultimate LH steering fix" for sloppy steering (usually diagnosed as a bad steering rack).
Power lock actuators are a weak point after around eight years. They are part of the door lock assembly, and hard to replace for the amateur (the dealer may be worthwhile). First, disconnect the battery (locks are always energized); then remove the door trim panel, by removing the trim plug from the door-pull area and the remote bezel; removing the screws thereby shown, and the three on the bottom of the trim panel. (Oh, isn't it wonderful to have screws instead of clips?)
Then use a trim tool (or a similar tool - something flat, firm, and unlikely to damage the paint or trim panel) to disengage the rest of the retaining clips, (in our case, two at the rear and one at the front of the panel.) Flip the trim panel up, and hold it securely.
Now remove the speaker wire, the power window switch wire connector, the courtesy lamp wire, and the wiring harness clips. Disconnect and remove the old part; put the new one in. Then reconnect the wires and remote handle linkage, and put on the water shield, making sure the locator holes align; reseal the shield (you may need to get more sealant.) Put the trim panel in place in the retainer on the top of the door, insert the four-way alignment guide, and the rearward two-way alignment guide; put in new retaining clips; and put the three screws on the bottom back in (they take just 15-20 inch-pounds of torque, which isn't much). Put the other two screws back in (same torque spec) and reinstall the trim plugs.
Chris Carpenter wrote:
Chrysler 300M Specifications
For full specs on the engine, see our 3.5 liter V6 engine page.
Power | 250 bhp @ 6400 rpm (normal) - SAE net, 2004 255 bhp @ 6500 rpm (300M Special) Redline: 6,800 rpm; 9.9:1 compression ratio |
Torque | 250 lb.-ft. @ 3900 rpm (normal) - SAE net, 2004 258 lb.-ft. @ 3950 rpm (300M Special) |
Towing | 2,000 lbs. max gross trailer weight |
Gas mileage | 18/26 city/highway mpg (US EPA) |
Electrical | 130-amp, high-speed alternator; 600 CCA battery |
Ratios, 1st-4th gears | 2.84 - 1.57 - 1:1 - 0.69 |
Final Drive | 3.66 - 300M; 3.89 - 300M Special |
Overall Top Gear | 2.52 - 300M; 2.68 - 300M Special |
DIMENSIONS AND CAPACITIES in inches (mm) |