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Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Car / Minivan Four-Speed Automatic Transmission
Transmission problems and maintenance
This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your "bad" Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for your front wheel drive car or minivan. Here are the most likely culprits, each of which can probably be fixed either by you or by a local mechanic for under $100:
- Incorrect transmission fluid (cost: $40-60) - most common problem! (even in 2008)
- Computer needs retraining (cost: time, so try this as soon as you’ve changed the fluid)
- Solenoid pack (cost: about $60-$150 plus labor. May just be clogged.)
- Ground strap broken/missing - may be misdiagnosed as needing a new transmission and/or computer! (cost: $10)
- Bad input sensor (very common!) - “Can be seen on scan tool screen as input rpm —if it’s 0, replace the sensor.”
- Computer firmware needs upgrade (cost: Chrysler dealer should do this for free; may be up to $200)
- Incorrect filter used
- Loose electrical connection
- Torque converter problems - see the bump shift section
- Note: if you are having the "bump shift" see the bump shift section, below.
One way to extend the life of any transmission is with a transmission fluid cooler and a deeper pan. If a cooler is offered as an option (you may need to ask), buy it. Some may choose to add an aftermarket fluid cooler. Click here for instructions on adding a transmission fluid cooler.
- For technical explanations and testimonials to the effectiveness of this page, click here.
- For more information on the basic design of the four-speed automatics, click here.
Please note that this page only covers the four-speed automatic. While a fluid change is good in a three-speed, it doesn't seem to have the same effect; and problems such as the bump-shift and delayed downshifting can have different causes.
A painless way to fix a "bad" transmission!
When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4®).
Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them what they will use and make sure it's the right one. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in, and for good reason! We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not. Is a customer's transmission worth the $10 for better fluid?)
All Chrysler four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use the ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Often, people can cure their transmission problems by changing the fluid and retraining the computer (see later in this page for retraining instructions)! If you suspect they have put Dexron in [note Jeep exclusion], invest the $40 or so to have it replaced immediately! [if you have a 1993-95 transmission, also follow TSB-18-24-95 and get your computer updated!
Master tech Chris Taurman wrote: “changing the fluid alone in 1993-95 units is a short term fix; the TCM must also be flashed or replaced to prevent the fluid from becoming degraded again and to eliminate partial "EMCC" torque converter clutch operation, which was the cause of 90% of torque converter shudder complaints as well as the aforementioned bump down (shift scheduling changes in the software took care of most low mileage complaints).]”
Some later models have similar situations - a computer firmware upgrade is needed.
Chrysler four-speed automatics only use ATF+4, regardless of what the dipstick or owner's manual says. To quote Mopar Magazine, “ATF+4 is the right fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions built since 2001.”
Do not use Dexron with an additive. Richard Widman passed us an extensive report from Chevron, which compared ATF+3 fluid with Dexron plus various additives. They found that neither of two major brands matched ATF+3's performance specs. ATF+4 has higher specifications.
If you don't have any problems until you have your car serviced...what does that tell you?
Frequently, a transmission that the dealer or transmission shop says is "not repairable" can be fixed with the simple steps outlined on this page, so don't give up hope just because a mechanic or two says your transmission needs to be replaced.
Testimonials and other readers' experiences
John C. Lai wrote (around 2001) that LubeGuard, used with Dexron by AAMCO, is not a good substitute for ATF+3: "...although Lubeguard claims on their website that their product will convert Dexron to become an ATF +3 (7176E) equivalent, they have no test data to back that up. Their head engineer told me that the tests they did were conducted in the early 1990s with the first version of 7176, several years before ATF+3 was developed. So, they have no basis for their claims of ATF +3 equivalency.”
Is ATF+4 suitable for all Chrysler cars or just a few? (and Jeep exception)
This is from the Center for Quality Assurance site (as of July 24, 2008): “ATF+4® is approved for use in older transmissions and is currently utilized in newer Chrysler®, Jeep® and Dodge® vehicles. The previous MOPAR ATF+3® formulation was discontinued in 2005 and ATF+4® is recommended for all transmissions filled with ATF+3®.”
There is an important exception for Jeep owners. As Danny noted, "The Jeep AW-4 (Aisin-Warner) transmission should use Dexron III." Greg, a DCX tech, wrote that the AW4/AX4 transmission was used on 6-cylinder Jeep Cherokees through the end of production, and on the first six-cylinder 1993 Grand Cherokees (built in 1992 and 1993), but on the Grand Cherokee it was phased out midway through the 1993 model year. This transmission requires Dexron, while the 42RE / A500SE which replaced the Aisin-Warner transmission midway in the 1993 model year needs ATF+4. Again, if you are confused, you may just want to try one of the new universal fluids that is both Dexron and ATF+4 compatible.
Computer revision
As detailed in a 1995 technical service bulletin, 18-24-95, many issues (including the infamous "bump shift") can be resolved by updating the computer's flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). (See below for the retraining process).
Michael Richards wrote: The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade (software?) was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost 'just' $200. Something to consider.
There may be newer computer revisions — we’re not that outdated.
Solenoid packs / relays - the most common problem?
Christopher Grimm wrote that, sometimes, the protective screens for the hydraulic "brain" can get clogged, blocking fluid flow. He says the brain must then be taken apart (not recommended by Chrysler) and the screens and valves cleaned. Christopher recommended getting a replacement from the junkyard to work on. He also said this only works once on any particular "brain." However, Certified Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote: Do not take solenoid packs apart. This alters the calibration of the unit! If the filters are plugged up, replace it! The current unit costs about $150 and eliminates the need for a sound shield and separator plate!
More often, Christopher said, the issue is simply that Chrysler and/or the rebuilder set the clearances too high, and/or the wrong fluid was used.
Three other issues
Gary Hicks wrote:
[If the transmission fails after takeoff, check] the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This is an electrical terminal and it bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission. Because of the poor design of this terminal it becomes a well and holds water. This happend to me on my 1992 3.3 Voyager. The transmission would not change gears without turning off the ignition to reset the computer. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.] Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade.
C. Wilk wrote: “1990 Plymouth Acclaim, A604. Problem: Transmission went into limp mode. Turning the ignition on and off a few times would fix it temporarily. Solution: Added new ground wires directly from negative battery cable to one of the bolts holding the TCM to the body (new body ground) and bolt on alternator (new alternator ground). Problem fixed. Moral: Create new ground paths. My old ground straps looked OK; I even cleaned them, and still had the problem. But adding new ground paths fixed the problem. Real inexpensive and easy fix so try this early in your trouble-shooting.”
Using quality parts in a rebuild - don't trust the repair shop!
Master Tech Bill wrote:
I have made a living doing these transmissions since 1990 and have read your page and it's great. I have dealt with aftermarket shops and also worked for dealerships.
The advice I have for anyone getting their trans rebuilt is - go to the local dealer and buy a front carrier (planetary gear) and rear carrier (planet or planetary gear). Bring them to the shop and insist that they are put in. Make sure the dealer sells you the one with the hardened spline -front and the 5 pinion rear. All the aftermarket is saturatedwith parts from Taiwan. It's like the difference between Snap-On and Harbor Freight.
If you have first release overdrive hub it has to be updated to the new hub and and also the 2-4 hub to match the front planet if the trans is made before 7/93 for the 1994 model year. The 2-4 hub breaks quite often and now has a thicker collar. Best bet-buy all four pieces if (built in) 1993 and earlier, all models if you can afford it. They have all been redesigned and strengthened.
If you get your trans done at an aftermarket shop what you are charged for the Taiwan parts is most likely pretty close to the dealer price for the mopar gears.
What type of fluid to use? (more details) - ATF+3 vs. ATF+4
Chrysler TSB# 21-006-01 notes that all current vehicles only use ATF+4 type 9602, part 05013457AA (for quart bottles). The advantages of ATF+4 over +3 include:
- Better anti-wear properties
- Improved rust/corrosion prevention
- Controls oxidation - eliminates deposits
- Anti-foaming
- Superior low temperature operation
- Maintains its friction properties over time
You can use ATF+4 with all older Chrysler transmissions (except as noted below - some Jeeps).
Rich Hutchinson wrote: [In 1989-91] both the manual and the dipstick said Dexron was okay, which is wrong. For non lockup 3 spds, either can be used. For lockup 3 spds up to some date in 1999 either could be used but ATF+3 was prefered. After that date ATF+4 is to be used in all automatics. (Putting in Dextron makes the clutches chatter due to the absence of a much needed friction modifier found in ATF +4 but it won't make it slip. )
The best bet for transmissions made before 1998 is to just use ATF+4. Even if it's not needed, it's better than Dexron.
The Chrysler ATF+4 info center has this statement: “The previous MOPAR ATF+3® formulation was discontinued in 2005 and ATF+4® is recommended for all transmissions filled with ATF+3®.”
Remember - when you change from Dexron, also retrain the computer and "flash" the computer memory (if applicable).
Click here for notes on the differences between ATF+3 and ATF+4, and for more on addities.
Chrysler transmission filter mix-ups
The filters for the some of the Chrysler four-speed transmissions are easily mixed up, but are not interchangeable. Make sure you are using the exact filter specified in the owner's manual (or the correct third party equivalent). A filter which looks almost exactly the same, and is even made for the same company's vehicles, may not work on your transmission. (Thanks, Ed Hennessy)
Retraining your Chrysler transmission
Transmission Exchange said the computer should be retrained when a rebuilt transmission is put in. This prevents both clutches from activating at the same time. Henry Traska noted that it may be best to retrain the transmission after changing the fluid if you were experiencing shifting problems.
Mark Schwieterman provided a retraining guide to the EEK! mailing list, whicih applies to pre-1995 transmissions (later ones may need a dealer or transmission shop to do it):
- Disconnect the battery to wipe the system memory clean (of course you will lose your radio presets and clock, but that's worth if it fixes the problem).
- Reconnect the battery [after a decent interval] and start the engine.
- Drive trying to maintain a constant medium throttle position as it accelerates up though all four gears (watch your tachometer). If the tranny is working correctly, you should only have to go to 45-50 mph. Do this from a standing start 15 - 20 times. You'll need a couple of miles of lightly travelled two lane.
- With the van below 25 mph, do 5 - 8 wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st from 2nd or 3rd. let the van run in 2nd or 3rd for at least five seconds between kickdowns and remember to kick it down from below 25. With the van above 25, do 5 - 8 part to wide open throttle kickdowns to either 2nd or 3rd from 4th. Again let the van run for at least 5 seconds in 4th between kickdowns. Kicking down from 45 or 50 mph should work.
Simply disconnecting your computer or battery for a day or so may work.
“valiant67” noted: “Starting in 1995, the TCM [computer] retains its calibration even after the battery power has been removed. I suspect it may also apply to replacement TCMs after this date but have not been able to confirm it. Since the TCM retains its memory, you must use a scan tool to reset the TCM or just let it adapt on its own.”
The "bump shift"
The bump shift in three-speed automatics may be helped by changing the transmission fluid to the correct, modern, updated fluid.
Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote:
"Bump down" is not caused by the low/reverse clutch, this clutch is turned on prior to the speed at which bump down ocurrs, the actual cause is one of two problems.
Changing the transmission fluid [may work but] in 1993-95 units is a short term fix. The computer must also be flashed or replaced to prevent the fluid from becoming degraded again and to eliminate partial "EMCC" TCC operation which was the cause of 90% of TCC shudder complaints (not the converter itself!) as well as bump down (shift scheduling changes in the software took care of most of low mileage complaints).
The underdrive clutch is the primary cause of all other bump down complaints (the piston seal leaks causing the computer to command 100% duty cycle of the UD solenoid causing harsh downshift). A rebuild is the only repair for this root cause.
GMB3625 wrote:
Sometime you can flash the computer [reprogram] to the latest specs and it might work. The computer learns the cvi's [clutch volumn indexs] which in turn tells the solenoid pak how long to keep any given solenoid open to send fluid to a clutch pack. This will only work with clutch paks that are in good shape with the right clutch clearances. If the clutch clearances are bad this will not work properly. If the seals are bad, you will only try to cover up a problem and it will come back. The only way to fix this problem is to overhaul the trans with the proper trans kit and parts. The mopar kit has all the newest and correct seals in it.
Craig Sherman wrote an excellent guide to fixing torque converter shudder in four speed automatics. Click here to read it.
Fluid loss
Kelli Bee wrote: “I wanted to let you know of an issue I had with a 1998 Neon. I was told by the dealer that I needed a new transmission. It was leaking about a quart every 8 miles. The car shifted fine when it had fluid so I got two more opinions. One said new transmission, the last said there was a cut in the cooler line that no one bothered to check. While I thought it was the seals, it was in fact easier and cheaper than that. You might want to let people know to check that also, since most of us can do basic work but are confused to the actual way to inspect a transmission.”
Do-it-yourself guides
[See the earlier tips about replacing the hubs with updated dealer parts]
We have been given permission to reprint Lane MacFarlane's guide to changing transmission fluid yourself. We have added to it, as well.
Craig Sherman has written a detailed guide to fixing the torque converter lockup circuit yourself - click here to read it.
Steve Knickerbocker wrote: A rebuild kit for the A413 trans is less than $60, the book on how to rebuild them is about $20. The experience? Priceless. Even if you actually bought each of the special tools specified in the book, not needed but handy, you would still come in way under $1900.
I rebuild my own transmissions and even the A604 types aren't hard, but they have to be spotlessly clean when you put them back together. Most of the A604 shifting issues are one of two things, clogged solenoid pack, about $60 for a new one last I checked, or an older software version which any dealer should be able to update.
Alan Wachs wrote: Helm and Dyment can supply a wide range of vehicle publications. The publication sales agent will send me a free listing of all of the Chrysler transmission publications covering at least as far back as 1990, to present.
Helm Publications Division is located at 14310 Hamilton Ave, Highland Park, MI 48203. Their ordering phone number is 1-800-782-4356. I have no address for Dyment, but their ordering phone number is 1-800-348-4696, and they--not Helm--carry the Chrysler materials.
Carl Vann suggested getting the Chrysler A-604 Techtran(TM) Manual and the Chrysler A-604 Update Handbook.
Reader experiences and testimonials
Alternative repairs
Darrell Vines wrote:
I read your summaries on transmissions that shifted roughly and with jerky transitions. Also read about starter solenoid problems. When I had the starter problem worked on by local alternator shop, the mechanic asked if I had transmission problems and solved them all by plugging in a loose electrical connection. Oh, such simple solutions.....
Bryan wrote:
I found your page very interesting. As a former Porsche tech and the owner of a new Grand Caravan I have noticed a load dependent noise at 45 to 60 mph. My ear tells me this is a bad pinion bearing. In searching other chat groups I have found other complaining of the same thing. It is important to remember that pinion bearing failures can take years to finally ruin a transmission hence the car owner can be run around for a long time.
Fabinator wrote:
I recommend an oil-to-air type cooler with a diversion thermostat (returns oil to transmission until it’s warm). This keeps it at a constant, exact temperature, no matter what the weather. Shift quality is not affected by engine temp (or outside temp) on this particular car.
Rich Hutchinson wrote about the three speed automatic:
There was a programming change that burnished the torque converter clutch. Without that software the 3 spd can shudder, though it's likely that normal wear could cause this burnishing and avoid the problem.
Do you have torque converter shudder on your four speed automatic? Click here!
A real problem: torque converter failure
"Coming home from the grocery store today doing about 35mph up a small hill, when "click" and the tranny disengaged. Just had time to pull off to the side of the road. No forward, no reverse, not even a hint the tranny is even there...When I shift the lever into gear I hear the familiar faint click like it is going to go into gear, but then nothing. There is absolutely no power being transmitted to the wheels.
A. Murphy wrote: "The going opinion on this problem is that the torque converter splines sheared. Apparently this is a very common occurence. ... I checked with the dealer and they quoted me 1800-2200 for a rebuilt with 3 year/36k mile warranty. AAMCO quoted 1500-1800 with a one year warranty and they will rebuild my current tranny. Another local shop quoted basically the same price and they will upgrade the tranny with a shift kit and HD torque converter. I can buy a rebuild kit for this tranny for $200. Add a couple hundred bucks for misc and I'm in for $400 plus tons of time."
[See the earlier tips about replacing these with updated dealer parts]
Lauren wrote:
Thank you for the information you provided for my A604 4-speed (1990 Dodge Minivan). I was having trouble with the lockup clutch slipping on trips (i.e. warmed up and at cruise). With a headwind or a significant grade, the RPM would begin to edge up, and then it would get worse. I decided to try your suggestion to add an oil cooler. We then took a 650 mile trip and had no problems. What a relief!
Walter wrote that the spider gear pin for the differential can go bad, but that when it does it often ruins the case. This should be taken into consideration in a rebuild (apparently Jasper has a fix for it).
Transmission gasket
fabinator wrote:
The 41TE has no gasket between the transfer plate and valve body/accumulator housing, the only thing there to provide a seal is a steel separator plate. If you have harsh downshifts and gear engagements, and the more routine maintenance didn't solve the problem, this probably will. You have to catch this quickly.
Since nobody wants to spend three weeks cutting two gaskets from scratch, I figured I'd try some kind of sealer. RTV would not work. The brush-on gasket maker and high tack will probably be too soft... There is a product called "Indian head shellac" which comes in a little brown bottle, it has a cotton ball on a stick inside the cap, which is used to apply it to your workpiece. This stuff is extremely sticky, but it won't get all over the place when you apply it. Put it on the aluminum surfaces that seat on the seperator plate, let it dry (trust me, it stays soft... like varnish), then slowly torque the bolts down. This will provide a positive seal that will hold up to heat, pressure, and time. I did this to correct harsh kickdowns, and it still works beautifully after three months. I inspected the shellac that was exposed to see how it held up, and it was fine. It won't come off and plug things up, ATF+4 has no solvent effect on it.
Dealing with rebuilders and repair shops
Christopher Grimm also had this advice for dealing with shops:
If you're looking at a rebuild, do your homework. See if the shop knows about shift improvement kits for the 604, they DO exist! Also ask them about a wiring harness upgrade, and how they set the clearances in the tranny. See if they mention adding another clutch pack to the 1-2 clutch pack, so that there is 5 instead of 4 in there. Make sure they replace the spider gears!!! Above all, make sure they use the proper fluid! If not, don't even bother. If they met all the requirements except the fluid, ask them if you can supply your own. Also see if they can get the 9" converter, $$$, but worth it if you want your engine to rev a little quicker. There are also different gear sets available, I have the 3:55s in mine. I never told you what the clearances should be did I? Make sure they set them at the lowest setting possible. This will shorten the shift time, firm up the shift, and give you more life out of the tranny. Good luck. One more thing, an auxiliary cooler is a must!
[See the earlier tips about replacing components with updated dealer parts]
Normal noises
Dan Stern wrote (with regard to a buzzing noise just before stopping):
I'm right in the heart of one of Chrysler's strongest sales markets. I can stand on any street corner in my town and in ten minutes probably hear 30-40 examples of this sound, which goes "bzzzz---zz-tic." It's completely normal. It's the transmission fluid control solenoid valves opening and shutting rapidly to make the fluid go where it's supposed to go to shift the transmission. All the FWD/AWD 4 speed automatics make this sound with every upshift, every downshift, and every gear selection. You hear the one as you pull to a stop, because the road and engine noise are minimal at this low speed.
Losing overdrive and third gear
Believe it or not, this is a sign of good design. Rather than having the engine shut down completely, Chrysler designed a "limp home mode" which causes the transmission to only use first and second, as a very visible sign that something is wrong. The immediate reaction should be checking the computer for error codes and changing the transmission fluid. If that fails, it could be a sensor problem or an internal problem. Suggestion is usually to chnage the fluid and filter (maybe flush the fluid too) and make sure that you use the correct amount of the appropriate chrysler fluid - DO NOT USE ANYONE ELSE'S FLUID!
Posthumous advice
Jim, the owner of Gene Poon's transmission shop, died of cancer. Jim knew his customers, and had so much of their trust that customers would ask him advice on what new cars to buy. When Gene bought his used Intrepid, he first asked Jim about the status of the 604/Ultradrive. Jim assured him the early problems were solved, and Gene has been happy with his Intrepid since. However, when Jim found that Gene had bought one, he sent a script for customers buying new or used Chryslers. If anyone benefits from this, they can mentally thank Jim... [We've shortened this notice substantially, partly due to the passage of time.]
- CONGRATULATIONS, NEW CHRYSLER OWNER!
Some advice on the 4-speed automatic transmission:
This transmission, which is used in virtually ALL Chrysler Corporation [Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge] cars and minivans, got a bad reputation early on for poor reliability. The weaknesses in the transmission have been fixed. But there is something which is the OWNER'S responsibility to see to: the proper care and feeding of this transmission.
Observe the "Severe Service" maintenance schedule.
Use, or have your mechanic use, only a QUALITY transmission filter when the transmission is serviced. The best is a genuine Chrysler MOPAR filter. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. Some aftermarket filters, though they fit, are actually Universal types intended to fit several different transmissions. Some have the same filter in boxes with different numbers! In the case of the MOPAR ones, every one is different!
Use, or have your mechanic use, ONLY the correct transmission fluid. Quaker State and Pennzoil make a fluid which is compatible. It is also OK. Some Chrysler owner's manuals say that you can use DEXRON if the 7176 fluid is not available. DO NOT DO IT!
If the [correct] fluid costs more (it does, about 50-60 cents a quart), PAY IT.
If you need to add a pint of fluid and [the correct fluid] is not available, drive a few miles to the next place which has it. This will be less harm than using DEXRON.
If a mechanic says he can substitute a little DEXRON and it won't do any harm, LEAVE! [and never come back]
If someone says he can use DEXRON plus an "anti-friction additive" in your Chrysler transmission, LEAVE!
If somebody puts DEXRON in, take it to a shop which uses [the right fluid], and have them drain the ENTIRE transmission, and refill with [the right fluid]. This will cost about $160.
DO NOT USE DEXRON!
We have had this page up for years and have saved people countless thousands of dollars on needless transmission repairs. Few have ever shown their appreciation for our time and effort by making a small, token donation. We don't understand that - we're saving you hundreds or thousands of dollars here...please see your way to donating a small portion of that as a token of goodwill, and to help others. Thank you.
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