Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Car / Minivan Four-Speed Automatic Transmission
Other transmissions • Fixing the Ultradrive (Chris Theodore) • Flush • Swap • Solenoid Pack
Transmission problems and maintenance
NONE of the following applies to eight or nine speed automatic transmissions.
This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your "bad" Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for front wheel drive and all wheel drive cars and minivans (we are not selling anything). This family of transmissions was released in 1989 and, with numerous improvements, continued into 2012. Here are some of the most common problems:
You can extend the life of a transmission with a transmission fluid cooler and a deeper pan. (Lauren wrote: "I was having trouble with the lockup clutch slipping on trips; with a headwind or a significant grade, the RPM would begin to edge up, and then it would get worse. I decided to try your suggestion to add an oil cooler. We then took a 650 mile trip and had no problems. What a relief!")
When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4).
Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them to make sure. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in. We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not.)
All Chrysler (and Honda and Toyota) four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Some companies sell "universal" fluids; if they state that they are compatible with ATF+4®, they should work, and can be helpful for those unsure of which fluid to use. The Center for Quality Assurance warned us to check the label for Chrysler's license number, and to make sure the fluid is on their list of ATF+4® licensed and tested fluids.
People can often cure their transmission problems by changing the fluid and retraining the computer (retraining instructions are lower on the page). If you suspect they have put Dexron in*, have it replaced immediately! [if you have a 1993-95 transmission, also follow TSB-18-24-95 and get your computer updated!]
* This means Dexron III. Dexron VI might be acceptable. Jeeps with Aisin-Warner AW4/AX4 four-speed automatic transmissions do use Dexron III.
(As per Mopar Magazine, December 2006): Put the vehicle onto a level surface, with the engine warmed up to 180° F and in Park. Clean the dipstick handle, then make sure the fluid is in the HOT region. The fluid should be in the COLD region when the fluid temperature is at 80° F. If the fluid smells burned or is contaminated with particles, have the fluid analyzed.
Chrysler four-speed automatics only use ATF+4, regardless of what the dipstick or owner's manual says. The same goes for the six-speed front-wheel-drive automatics. (At least, through 2014.)
If you don't have any problems until you have your car serviced...it should mean something.
A transmission that the dealer or transmission shop says is "not repairable" can often be fixed with the simple steps outlined on this page, so don't give up hope just because a mechanic or two says your transmission needs to be replaced.
Additives
Avoid additives. Richard Widman passed us an extensive report from Chevron, which compared ATF+3 fluid with Dexron III plus various additives. They found that neither of two major brands matched ATF+3's performance specifications.
John C. Lai wrote (around 2001) that LubeGuard, used with Dexron III by AAMCO, is not a good substitute for ATF+3: "...although Lubeguard claims on their website that their product will convert Dexron to become an ATF +3 (7176E) equivalent, they have no test data to back that up. Their head engineer told me that the tests they did were conducted in the early 1990s with the first version of 7176, several years before ATF+3 was developed. So, they have no basis for their claims of ATF +3 equivalency."
The Jeep exception
Danny noted, "The Jeep AW-4 (Aisin-Warner) transmission should use Dexron III." Greg, a DCX tech, wrote that the AW4/AX4 transmission was used on 6-cylinder Jeep Cherokees through the end of production, and on the first six-cylinder 1993 Grand Cherokees (built in 1992 and 1993), but on the Grand Cherokee it was phased out midway through the 1993 model year. This transmission requires Dexron III, while the 42RE / A500SE which replaced the Aisin-Warner transmission midway in the 1993 model year needs ATF+4. Again, if you are confused, you may just want to try one of the new universal fluids that is both Dexron and ATF+4 compatible.
Shifter issues (added July 2010)
Joe Kosiner wrote: There is a problem with the shifter in some 2005-07 cars (especially the LX) that causes the shifter to remain stuck in park whether you depress the brake pedal or not. A plastic part in the mechanical lockout that is tied to the brake pedal breaks and you are stuck in park. Billet Technology sells a replacement part made from aluminum, so you don't need to replace the entire shifter (as some dealers apparently do, at high cost). "Replacing the part took me about 2 hours being extremely careful about what I did. I would estimate it would take about an hour the second time around to disassemble the shifter, replace the part and reassemble. The shifter works more smoothly then it has in a long time."
Computer revision
The 1995 technical service bulletin 18-24-95 declares that many issues (including "bump shift") can be resolved by updating the computer's flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). You can also do the retraining yourself (see below).
Michael Richards wrote: "The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost $200. Something to consider."
Solenoid packs / relays - the most common problem?
Christopher Grimm wrote that the protective screens for the hydraulic "brain" can clog; it can be taken apart (not recommended by Chrysler) and the screens and valves cleaned. Christopher recommended getting a replacement from the junkyard to work on first; he also said this only works once on any particular "brain." However, Certified Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote: "Do not take solenoid packs apart. This alters the calibration of the unit! If the filters are plugged up, replace it! The current unit costs about $150 and eliminates the need for a sound shield and separator plate!"
More often, Christopher said, the issue is simply that Chrysler and/or the rebuilder set the clearances too high, and/or the wrong fluid was used.
Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos)
Failure after takeoff (launch)
Gary Hicks wrote: [If the transmission fails after takeoff, check] the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This terminal bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission; it can hold water as it did on my 1992 Plymouth Voyager. The transmission would not change gears. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.] Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade.
Transmission limp mode from missing ground path
C. Wilk wrote: "1990 Plymouth Acclaim. The transmission went into limp mode. Turning the ignition on and off a few times would fix it temporarily. I added new ground wires directly from negative battery cable to one of the bolts holding the TCM to the body (new body ground) and the bolt on the alternator (new alternator ground). Problem fixed. My old ground straps looked good; I even cleaned them, and still had the problem. But adding new ground paths fixed the problem. Inexpensive and easy so try this early in your trouble-shooting."
Use quality parts in a transmission rebuild - don't trust the repair shop!
Master Tech Bill wrote:
Chrysler TSB# 21-006-01 notes that all current vehicles only use ATF+4 type 9602, part 05013457AA (for quart bottles). The advantages of ATF+4 over +3 (and Dexron for that matter) include:
You can use ATF+4 with all older Chrysler transmissions (except some Jeeps, as noted earlier, and very early automatics - before the TorqueFlite).
Rich Hutchinson wrote: [In 1989-91] both the manual and the dipstick said Dexron was okay, which is wrong. For non lockup 3 spds, either can be used. For lockup 3 spds up to some date in 1999 either could be used but ATF+3 was prefered. After that date ATF+4 is to be used in all automatics.
The best bet for transmissions made before 1998 is to just use ATF+4. Even if it's not needed, it's better than Dexron.
The Chrysler ATF+4 info center has this statement: "The previous ATF+3® was discontinued in 2005 and ATF+4® is recommended for all transmissions filled with ATF+3®."
Remember - when you change from Dexron, also retrain the computer and "flash" the computer memory (if applicable).
Ted Mittelstaedt noted: "Everything I've found indicates ATF+3 is not synthetic, ATF+4 is synthetic."
Click here for notes on the differences between ATF+3 and ATF+4, and for more on addities.
Chrysler transmission filter mix-ups
The filters for the some of the Chrysler four-speed transmissions are easily mixed up, but are not interchangeable. Make sure you are using the filter specified in the owner's manual (or the correct third party equivalent). A filter which looks almost exactly the same may not work on your transmission. (Thanks, Ed Hennessy)
Retraining your Chrysler transmission
Transmission Exchange said the computer should be retrained when a rebuilt transmission is put in. This prevents both clutches from activating at the same time. Henry Traska noted that it may be best to retrain the transmission after changing the fluid if you were experiencing shifting problems.
Mark Schwieterman provided a retraining guide which applies to pre-1995 transmissions (later ones may need a dealer or transmission shop to do it, but it might also work on many later ones):
Simply disconnecting your computer or battery for a day or so may work depending on the transmission, but valiant67 noted that, "Starting in 1995, the TCM [computer] retains its calibration even after the battery power has been removed. Since the TCM retains its memory, you must use a scan tool to reset the TCM or just let it adapt on its own."
The "bump shift"
The bump shift may be helped by changing the transmission fluid to the correct, modern, updated fluid.
Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote:
(See "Do it yourself" guides later on this page)
Alternative repairs
Kelli Bee wrote:
Bryan wrote: "I have noticed a load dependent noise at 45 to 60 mph - a bad pinion bearing. Pinion bearing failures can take years to finally ruin a transmission, so the car owner can be run around for a long time."
Fabinator wrote: "I recommend an oil-to-air cooler with a diversion thermostat (returns oil to transmission until it's warm). This keeps it at a constant, exact temperature, no matter what the weather."
Rich Hutchinson wrote about the three speed automatic: "There was a programming change that burnished the torque converter clutch. Without that software the three-speed can shudder, though it's likely that normal wear could cause this burnishing and avoid the problem."
The problem:
Transmission gasket
fabinator wrote:
Christopher Grimm also had this advice for dealing with shops:
Normal noises
Dan Stern wrote (with regard to a buzzing noise just before stopping):
Believe it or not, this is a sign of good design. Rather than having the engine shut down completely, Chrysler designed a "limp home mode" which causes the transmission to only use first and second, as a very visible sign that something is wrong. The immediate reaction should be checking the computer for error codes and changing the transmission fluid. If that fails, it could be a sensor problem or an internal problem. Suggestion is usually to chnage the fluid and filter (maybe flush the fluid too) and make sure that you use the correct amount of the appropriate chrysler fluid - DO NOT USE ANYONE ELSE'S FLUID!
More four-speed automatic repairs and do it yourself guides
[See the earlier tips about replacing the hubs with updated dealer parts]
Steve Knickerbocker wrote:
Jim, the owner of Gene Poon's transmission shop, died of cancer some years ago. Jim knew his customers, and when Gene bought his used Intrepid, he first asked Jim about the status of the 604/Ultradrive. Jim assured him the early problems were solved, and Gene has been happy with his Intrepid since - but Jim sent Gene a script for customers buying new or used Chryslers. [We've shortened this notice substantially, partly due to the passage of time.]
We strive for accuracy but we are not necessarily experts or authorities on the subject. Neither the author nor Allpar.com / Allpar, LLC may be held responsible for the use of the information or advice, implied or otherwise, on this site. This page is offered "as is" and without warranties. By reading further, you release the author and Allpar, LLC from any liability.
Home •
Engines •
Reviews •
Chrysler 1904-2018 •
Upcoming •
Trucks •
Cars
Spread the word via <!--Tweet or--> Facebook!
We make no guarantees regarding validity or accuracy of information, predictions, or advice - .
Copyright © VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved. Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler, Ram, and Mopar are trademarks of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.
Other transmissions • Fixing the Ultradrive (Chris Theodore) • Flush • Swap • Solenoid Pack
Transmission problems and maintenance
NONE of the following applies to eight or nine speed automatic transmissions.
This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your "bad" Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for front wheel drive and all wheel drive cars and minivans (we are not selling anything). This family of transmissions was released in 1989 and, with numerous improvements, continued into 2012. Here are some of the most common problems:
-
- Computer needs retraining (try this as soon as you've changed the fluid)
- Solenoid pack (cost: about $160 plus labor, or $30 as DIY rebuild with kit.)
- Ground strap broken/missing - may be misdiagnosed as needing a new transmission and/or computer.
- Clogged hydraulic "brain" ($0 to $150)
- Bad input sensor (common) - "Can be seen on scan tool screen as input rpm -if it's 0, replace the sensor."
- Computer firmware needs upgrade (Chrysler dealer should do this for free but might run up to $200)
- Incorrect filter used in last fluid change
- Loose electrical connection
- Torque converter (see the bump shift section)
- Gear selector issues
You can extend the life of a transmission with a transmission fluid cooler and a deeper pan. (Lauren wrote: "I was having trouble with the lockup clutch slipping on trips; with a headwind or a significant grade, the RPM would begin to edge up, and then it would get worse. I decided to try your suggestion to add an oil cooler. We then took a 650 mile trip and had no problems. What a relief!")
- Technical explanations and testimonials to the effectiveness of this page
- Basic design of the four-speed automatics
- How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview)
- Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos)
- Checking the computer for error codes
- Choosing and flushing transmission fluid
- Fixing the torque converter lockup circuit
- Swapping transmissions: putting a good one into your car
- Adding a transmission fluid cooler
- Reader experiences and testimonials
- How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview)
When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4).
Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them to make sure. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in. We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not.)
All Chrysler (and Honda and Toyota) four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Some companies sell "universal" fluids; if they state that they are compatible with ATF+4®, they should work, and can be helpful for those unsure of which fluid to use. The Center for Quality Assurance warned us to check the label for Chrysler's license number, and to make sure the fluid is on their list of ATF+4® licensed and tested fluids.
People can often cure their transmission problems by changing the fluid and retraining the computer (retraining instructions are lower on the page). If you suspect they have put Dexron in*, have it replaced immediately! [if you have a 1993-95 transmission, also follow TSB-18-24-95 and get your computer updated!]
* This means Dexron III. Dexron VI might be acceptable. Jeeps with Aisin-Warner AW4/AX4 four-speed automatic transmissions do use Dexron III.
How to check your fluid
(As per Mopar Magazine, December 2006): Put the vehicle onto a level surface, with the engine warmed up to 180° F and in Park. Clean the dipstick handle, then make sure the fluid is in the HOT region. The fluid should be in the COLD region when the fluid temperature is at 80° F. If the fluid smells burned or is contaminated with particles, have the fluid analyzed.
Chrysler four-speed automatics only use ATF+4, regardless of what the dipstick or owner's manual says. The same goes for the six-speed front-wheel-drive automatics. (At least, through 2014.)
If you don't have any problems until you have your car serviced...it should mean something.
A transmission that the dealer or transmission shop says is "not repairable" can often be fixed with the simple steps outlined on this page, so don't give up hope just because a mechanic or two says your transmission needs to be replaced.
Additives
Avoid additives. Richard Widman passed us an extensive report from Chevron, which compared ATF+3 fluid with Dexron III plus various additives. They found that neither of two major brands matched ATF+3's performance specifications.
John C. Lai wrote (around 2001) that LubeGuard, used with Dexron III by AAMCO, is not a good substitute for ATF+3: "...although Lubeguard claims on their website that their product will convert Dexron to become an ATF +3 (7176E) equivalent, they have no test data to back that up. Their head engineer told me that the tests they did were conducted in the early 1990s with the first version of 7176, several years before ATF+3 was developed. So, they have no basis for their claims of ATF +3 equivalency."
The Jeep exception
Danny noted, "The Jeep AW-4 (Aisin-Warner) transmission should use Dexron III." Greg, a DCX tech, wrote that the AW4/AX4 transmission was used on 6-cylinder Jeep Cherokees through the end of production, and on the first six-cylinder 1993 Grand Cherokees (built in 1992 and 1993), but on the Grand Cherokee it was phased out midway through the 1993 model year. This transmission requires Dexron III, while the 42RE / A500SE which replaced the Aisin-Warner transmission midway in the 1993 model year needs ATF+4. Again, if you are confused, you may just want to try one of the new universal fluids that is both Dexron and ATF+4 compatible.
Shifter issues (added July 2010)
Computer revision
The 1995 technical service bulletin 18-24-95 declares that many issues (including "bump shift") can be resolved by updating the computer's flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). You can also do the retraining yourself (see below).
Michael Richards wrote: "The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost $200. Something to consider."
Solenoid packs / relays - the most common problem?
Christopher Grimm wrote that the protective screens for the hydraulic "brain" can clog; it can be taken apart (not recommended by Chrysler) and the screens and valves cleaned. Christopher recommended getting a replacement from the junkyard to work on first; he also said this only works once on any particular "brain." However, Certified Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote: "Do not take solenoid packs apart. This alters the calibration of the unit! If the filters are plugged up, replace it! The current unit costs about $150 and eliminates the need for a sound shield and separator plate!"
More often, Christopher said, the issue is simply that Chrysler and/or the rebuilder set the clearances too high, and/or the wrong fluid was used.
Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos)
Failure after takeoff (launch)
Gary Hicks wrote: [If the transmission fails after takeoff, check] the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This terminal bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission; it can hold water as it did on my 1992 Plymouth Voyager. The transmission would not change gears. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.] Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade.
Transmission limp mode from missing ground path
C. Wilk wrote: "1990 Plymouth Acclaim. The transmission went into limp mode. Turning the ignition on and off a few times would fix it temporarily. I added new ground wires directly from negative battery cable to one of the bolts holding the TCM to the body (new body ground) and the bolt on the alternator (new alternator ground). Problem fixed. My old ground straps looked good; I even cleaned them, and still had the problem. But adding new ground paths fixed the problem. Inexpensive and easy so try this early in your trouble-shooting."
Use quality parts in a transmission rebuild - don't trust the repair shop!
Master Tech Bill wrote:
What type of fluid to use? (more details) - ATF+3 vs. ATF+4
Chrysler TSB# 21-006-01 notes that all current vehicles only use ATF+4 type 9602, part 05013457AA (for quart bottles). The advantages of ATF+4 over +3 (and Dexron for that matter) include:
- Better anti-wear and anti-corrosion properties - and maintains its friction properties over time
- Controls oxidation - eliminates deposits
- Anti-foaming
- Superior low temperature operation
You can use ATF+4 with all older Chrysler transmissions (except some Jeeps, as noted earlier, and very early automatics - before the TorqueFlite).
Rich Hutchinson wrote: [In 1989-91] both the manual and the dipstick said Dexron was okay, which is wrong. For non lockup 3 spds, either can be used. For lockup 3 spds up to some date in 1999 either could be used but ATF+3 was prefered. After that date ATF+4 is to be used in all automatics.
The best bet for transmissions made before 1998 is to just use ATF+4. Even if it's not needed, it's better than Dexron.
The Chrysler ATF+4 info center has this statement: "The previous ATF+3® was discontinued in 2005 and ATF+4® is recommended for all transmissions filled with ATF+3®."
Remember - when you change from Dexron, also retrain the computer and "flash" the computer memory (if applicable).
Ted Mittelstaedt noted: "Everything I've found indicates ATF+3 is not synthetic, ATF+4 is synthetic."
Click here for notes on the differences between ATF+3 and ATF+4, and for more on addities.
Chrysler transmission filter mix-ups
The filters for the some of the Chrysler four-speed transmissions are easily mixed up, but are not interchangeable. Make sure you are using the filter specified in the owner's manual (or the correct third party equivalent). A filter which looks almost exactly the same may not work on your transmission. (Thanks, Ed Hennessy)
Retraining your Chrysler transmission
Transmission Exchange said the computer should be retrained when a rebuilt transmission is put in. This prevents both clutches from activating at the same time. Henry Traska noted that it may be best to retrain the transmission after changing the fluid if you were experiencing shifting problems.
Mark Schwieterman provided a retraining guide which applies to pre-1995 transmissions (later ones may need a dealer or transmission shop to do it, but it might also work on many later ones):
- Disconnect the battery to wipe the system memory clean (of course you will lose your radio presets and clock, but that's worth if it fixes the problem).
- Reconnect the battery [after a decent interval] and start the engine.
- Drive trying to maintain a constant medium throttle position as it accelerates up though all four gears (watch your tachometer). If the tranny is working correctly, you should only have to go to 45-50 mph. Do this from a standing start 15 - 20 times. You'll need a couple of miles of lightly traveled two lane.
- With the van below 25 mph, do 5 - 8 wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st from 2nd or 3rd. let the van run in 2nd or 3rd for at least five seconds between kickdowns and remember to kick it down from below 25. With the van above 25, do 5 - 8 part to wide open throttle kickdowns to either 2nd or 3rd from 4th. Again let the van run for at least 5 seconds in 4th between kickdowns. Kicking down from 45 or 50 mph should work.
Simply disconnecting your computer or battery for a day or so may work depending on the transmission, but valiant67 noted that, "Starting in 1995, the TCM [computer] retains its calibration even after the battery power has been removed. Since the TCM retains its memory, you must use a scan tool to reset the TCM or just let it adapt on its own."
The "bump shift"
The bump shift may be helped by changing the transmission fluid to the correct, modern, updated fluid.
Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote:
GMB3625 wrote:
Craig Sherman wrote an excellent guide to fixing torque converter shudder in four speed automatics.
(See "Do it yourself" guides later on this page)
Alternative repairs
Kelli Bee wrote:
Darrell Vines wrote: "When I had my starter solenoid worked on by local alternator shop, the mechanic asked if I had transmission problems and solved them all by plugging in a loose electrical connection."
Bryan wrote: "I have noticed a load dependent noise at 45 to 60 mph - a bad pinion bearing. Pinion bearing failures can take years to finally ruin a transmission, so the car owner can be run around for a long time."
Fabinator wrote: "I recommend an oil-to-air cooler with a diversion thermostat (returns oil to transmission until it's warm). This keeps it at a constant, exact temperature, no matter what the weather."
Rich Hutchinson wrote about the three speed automatic: "There was a programming change that burnished the torque converter clutch. Without that software the three-speed can shudder, though it's likely that normal wear could cause this burnishing and avoid the problem."
The problem:
Walter wrote that the spider gear pin for the differential can go bad, but that when it does it often ruins the case. This should be taken into consideration in a rebuild (apparently Jasper has a fix for it).
Transmission gasket
fabinator wrote:
Dealing with rebuilders and repair shops
Christopher Grimm also had this advice for dealing with shops:
[See the earlier tips about replacing components with updated dealer parts]
Normal noises
Dan Stern wrote (with regard to a buzzing noise just before stopping):
Losing overdrive and third gear
Believe it or not, this is a sign of good design. Rather than having the engine shut down completely, Chrysler designed a "limp home mode" which causes the transmission to only use first and second, as a very visible sign that something is wrong. The immediate reaction should be checking the computer for error codes and changing the transmission fluid. If that fails, it could be a sensor problem or an internal problem. Suggestion is usually to chnage the fluid and filter (maybe flush the fluid too) and make sure that you use the correct amount of the appropriate chrysler fluid - DO NOT USE ANYONE ELSE'S FLUID!
More four-speed automatic repairs and do it yourself guides
[See the earlier tips about replacing the hubs with updated dealer parts]
- Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos)
- Checking the computer for error codes
- Choosing and flushing transmission fluid
- Fixing the torque converter lockup circuit
- Swapping transmissions: putting a good one into your car
- Adding a transmission fluid cooler
- Reader experiences and testimonials
- How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview)
Steve Knickerbocker wrote:
Posthumous advice
Jim, the owner of Gene Poon's transmission shop, died of cancer some years ago. Jim knew his customers, and when Gene bought his used Intrepid, he first asked Jim about the status of the 604/Ultradrive. Jim assured him the early problems were solved, and Gene has been happy with his Intrepid since - but Jim sent Gene a script for customers buying new or used Chryslers. [We've shortened this notice substantially, partly due to the passage of time.]
- CONGRATULATIONS, NEW CHRYSLER OWNER!
Some advice on the 4-speed automatic transmission:
This transmission, which is used in virtually ALL Chrysler Corporation [Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge] cars and minivans, got a bad reputation early on for poor reliability. The weaknesses in the transmission have been fixed. But there is something which is the OWNER'S responsibility to see to: the proper care and feeding of this transmission.
Observe the "Severe Service" maintenance schedule.
Use, or have your mechanic use, only a QUALITY transmission filter when the transmission is serviced. The best is a genuine Chrysler MOPAR filter. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. Some aftermarket filters, though they fit, are actually Universal types intended to fit several different transmissions. Some have the same filter in boxes with different numbers! In the case of the MOPAR ones, every one is different!
Use, or have your mechanic use, ONLY the correct transmission fluid. Quaker State and Pennzoil make a fluid which is compatible. It is also OK. Some Chrysler owner's manuals say that you can use DEXRON if the 7176 fluid is not available. DO NOT DO IT!
If the [correct] fluid costs more (it does, about 50-60 cents a quart), PAY IT.
If you need to add a pint of fluid and [the correct fluid] is not available, drive a few miles to the next place which has it. This will be less harm than using DEXRON.
If a mechanic says he can substitute a little DEXRON and it won't do any harm, LEAVE! [and never come back]
If someone says he can use DEXRON plus an "anti-friction additive" in your Chrysler transmission, LEAVE!
If somebody puts DEXRON in, take it to a shop which uses [the right fluid], and have them drain the ENTIRE transmission, and refill with [the right fluid]. This will cost about $160.
DO NOT USE DEXRON!
We strive for accuracy but we are not necessarily experts or authorities on the subject. Neither the author nor Allpar.com / Allpar, LLC may be held responsible for the use of the information or advice, implied or otherwise, on this site. This page is offered "as is" and without warranties. By reading further, you release the author and Allpar, LLC from any liability.
Home •
Engines •
Reviews •
Chrysler 1904-2018 •
Upcoming •
Trucks •
Cars
Spread the word via <!--Tweet or--> Facebook!
We make no guarantees regarding validity or accuracy of information, predictions, or advice - .
Copyright © VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved. Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler, Ram, and Mopar are trademarks of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.